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mpo

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Posts posted by mpo

    Advesive tape on Leica vulcanite

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>I'd use Isopropyl alcohol also, but first try to remove as much residue as you can with short pieces of masking tape. Stick the tape over the residue and then remove the tape slowly, trying to drag the residue with it.<br>

    Just softening the residue with some solvent and wiping it has the risk of scattering the goo all over your camera.<br>

    Have in mind, that there is a chance that you drag some pieces of vulcanite also... </p>

    Leica R 35-70 F4 ROM

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hi Philip, you are right, I was confused. My comments refer to the 28-70 f3.5-4.5 ROM, second version, built by Sigma. That's the horrible lens.<br>

    I do own the 35-70 f4 ROM too, but I don't recall any special impression about it, so probably its performance matches the expectations of a Leica lens.<br>

    If Mr. Puts says it's OK, surely it is.</p>

    Leica R 35-70 F4 ROM

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>The Leica 35-70 F4 ROM lens was supposedly designed by Leica and certainly built by Soligor. AFAIK, Soligor is not related to Kyocera.<br>

    Despite been a Leica lens, is one of the worst (Leica R or M) lenses I've used. Although plenty sharp, it has huge amounts of geometric distortion: pincushion at "tele" and barrel at "wide".<br>

    Possibly some styles of photography (nature, for example) may not be affected by this kind of defect.</p>

    <p>MP</p>

     

    Pilgrimage to Wetzlar/ Solms

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>I tried that once and found to be a not-so-good-idea.<br>

    On my last trip to Berlin I brought my spare Noctilux with the idea of selling it in order to finance part of the travel costs. I was at Meister Camera Berlin and other fine store (don't remember the name) close to it on the other side of Kurfürstendamm.</p>

    <p>On both places they had a very clear policy: they valued the lens and then you can choose three options, one, they buy you the lens for 40% of its value, second, you can exchange the lens for other merchandise valued 65% of the lens value, and third, you can leave the lens in consignment and receive 80% of its value when sold. Also should note that the value they calculated for the lens was quite low (for a mint lens like mine), when an everyday lens was selling for ~US$5,000 on the Bay and other photo forums, they calculated a value of 2,000 Euro for this third generation Noctilux (complete with original hood, caps, leather case and box).</p>

    <p>Of course, I didn't sell it and now I'm sitting on two Noctis (and quite happy, indeed).</p>

    <p>BTW, this was three years ago.</p>

    <p>MP</p>

    <p> </p>

    what protection/UV filter do you use for Leica's M lenses?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <blockquote>

    <p>Oh my - so you paid out twice for expensive UV filters? I have to say it all seems crazy to me. But the UV filter issue is akin to a religious issue whenever it is raised.</p>

    </blockquote>

    <p>Ha ha ha!<br>

    As my bio says, for me this is just a hobby (although a very serious one) so, I don't need rational, bullet-proof, justification for all these decisions (and I like that).<br>

    Economic reasoning would advice to use my free time in consulting business, not wandering with a camera.</p>

    what protection/UV filter do you use for Leica's M lenses?

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Another vote for the B+W MRC filters, they have much better coatings than Leica filters at half the price.<br>

    I bought the original Leica filters for my first lenses and today those filters rest in a drawer, all replaced by B+W or Heliopan filters.<br>

    If Leica coatings were as good as the above mentioned brands, I would gladly pay the premium for the Leica label. But they aren't, just go to the store and compare the reflections on the surface of each brand, the difference is amazing.<br>

    Leica offers chrome ring filters to match chrome lenses, that could be a good (?) reason to choose Leica.<br>

    MP</p>

    Focomat V35 Voltage Stabilizer

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>Hi Jack,<br>

    Certainly Mr. Bonavolta's V35 is not wired for different voltages, mine it is. As a matter of fact, the previous owner operated it at 110V and now I'm using it at 220V. As many of these devices have a long history behind, it's very likely that some of them have been refurbished (and modified) at some point.<br>

    If you are not sure about the voltage setting of yours, just plug it to 110V and check the lamp brightness. If it looks dim and reddish, then its wired for 220. Better, if you have a voltmeter (a "tester") you can check the voltage at the lamp base (lamp removed) and it should read a little more than 12VAC (repeat: AC, not DC). If you find it to be wired for 220V (measured lamp voltage will be around 6VAC) but still has the original internal transformer, you can redo the wiring manually using a soldering iron (and knowing which wires to change). I have no information at hand, but if you need to do this, I can search for something.<br>

    Don't do the test described above connecting the mystery enlarger to 220V. If it was adjusted to 110V, you will burn it.<br>

    If you find it was already burnt, don't panic, you can easily replace the original transformer with one designed for domestic decorative halogen lamps (12V 100W would be perfect).<br>

    My UPS is a BELKIN and, to be honest, I've never checked how well (bad) stabilizes the mains voltage. All I can say is that I've never noticed any inconsistency while working in the darkroom (mostly at nights, possibly voltage is more stable "after dinner").<br>

    The UPS you mention is much larger than you need, unless you are connecting some other devices to it (I do: my timer, enlarging meter and safelights are also connected to the UPS). The 1000 VA model shown on that page is more than adequate. And yes, your measurements are correct, the specifications shown there state that voltage regulation (or stabilization) occurs only while operating in battery mode, not in stand-by mode.<br>

    Last thing, I chose my UPS, among other things, because it has no display nor any other light, just one very tiny and dim LED that confirms operation, that's very convenient for a darkroom... (you can always cover a display, but you have already paid a premium for having it).<br>

    Marcelo</p>

    Focomat V35 Voltage Stabilizer

    in Leica and Rangefinders

    Posted

    <p>If you are asking about an external stabilizer for the V35, then you can use whatever you can get, provided it is rated 100W o higher (that's the plate rating, real power of the lamp is just 75W). As the V35 is switchable between 110/240 V , you must be sure to adjust it to the proper voltage of your mains supply and regulator.<br /> I do use a 600W UPS (the smallest I found) with built in regulation circuitry and works flawlessly.<br /> The V35 column base has enough space to accommodate an internal regulator, but mine (second hand, of course) does not have one, I suspect that it may have been an option.<br /> Good luck!</p>

    1 to 9?

    in Black & White Practice

    Posted

    <p>This is an old mistake, 1 to 9 is the same as 1:9 and that's different from 1+9.<br>

    If you need to dilute 1:9, then you must divide the total desired volume by 9. That's the amount of concentrate you need. Then you must add 8 times that volume of water to complete the desired volume (of 1:9 dilution).<br>

    If you need to dilute 1+9, then follow Lynn's recipe.</p>

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