custom film holders for fl

<p>Since you have a new printer, you need new a new icc profile for each paper you use (and probably want to delete any old ones for printers you don't use anymore). Go here and work through their tool to get the specific profile for your printer type.<br /> http://www.ilford.com/printer-profile-list<br /> When you get to the point where you download your printer profile, it will come as a zip file. The zip file will include an instructional .pdf. It is a bit vague about paper type but you have to look at the name of the profile itself and look for the paper code. Since the profile for your specific printer with this particular paper, IGPGFS_EPSC600_EPSn.icc, ends in "EPS", you should choose "Epson Premium Semigloss" as your paper type within the Epson driver.<br /> <br />Doug</p>

<p>Those look like they might be head strikes against the paper where the paper has warp or curl and is coming in contact with the print head. The ink comes from the nozzle area or ink that has built up on the head itself. If true, you would not want to do more head cleanings. An alternative could be an issue with the black section of the print head going bad and leaking ink but you would think you would get that all over the print versus just one area. Is your paper totally flat?</p>

<p>If it was upside down, then some part of the running gear could have jumped off track or become misaligned thus causing the gear to bind up which would produce the red light. Time to take it apart and start investigating. The problem may be in the base part and/or in the lid of the scanner. I would start in the base. You should clean the underside of the glass while you are in there to remove the inevitable out-gassing fog.<br> <br />Start by removing the four black plastic caps to reveal the screws that hold the base together. After that, use the exploded diagram you can download at the following link to work your way around the internals:<br> http://www.betterscanning.com/scanning/dismantling.html<br> <br />Doug</p>

<p>FWIW, a few years ago I had an extra copy of the Spectraview software sold in the USA and made a deal with a fellow forum member from this website who lived in Europe. The software worked just fine for him.</p>

<p>The difference in true optical resolution is going to be incremental at best versus revolutionary. Every person's definition of "worthy" is different so I am not sure you will consider the investment "worthy" versus applying that money toward a used high-end flatbed or used drum scanner.<br> Since the optics on the V7xx and V8xx are similar, if you are going to go for an Epson you ought to think about watching for a refurbished V700 to pop up in the clearance center section of the online Epson Store. Those are usually in the low $400 range but they sell out fast so you need to check their site daily.</p>

<p>You might want to do more research about this common problem. There are posts from people who have replaced the part(s) related to the valve versus the much more expensive head.</p>

<p>The top two inches of the glass bed need to be absolutely spotless. That is the area which will be under the calibration gap of the holder. If you are talking about the white calibration strip for the scanner itself, you have to open the scanner shell up and then you will find it on the underside of the scanner's body/shell next to the top end of the scanning bed glass.</p>

<p>An air force target is not needed. The optics on these scanners don't require that level of precision. Usually, a street scene with lots of detail (e.g. building details, signs, etc.) is fine for judging the image. Alternatively, scratching a hatch/grid pattern using a sewing needle across the dark part of a film leader works very well too.</p>

<p>In terms of true optical resolution, I don't think you would be able to tell the difference between scans from the scanners as long as you have the film holder height calibrated well on your adjustable height holder. A newer scanner may have slightly better real-world dmax performance but I don't know if you would find the small difference worth the upgrade price. If you haven't opened up your scanner to clean the out-gassing fog/buildup off the underside of the glass within the last year or two, that could help revitalize your 4990.<br> Some information on dismantling your scanner is posted here:<br> http://www.betterscanning.com/scanning/dismantling.html<br> <br /> Doug</p>

<p>You can manually crop via the Epson software and even set up a batch scan manually. Look at the top section where there is a discussion of how to do this with the EpsonScan software:<br> http://www.betterscanning.com/scanning/batchscanning.html<br> Doug</p>

<p>Sprayway seems to leave less residue/haze compared to Windex. I find that when using Windex I have to go over the glass a second time with a clean dry cloth to remove a haze after the Windex dries.</p>

<p>I have put up some exploded diagrams for Epson scanners here that might help you with disassembly:<br> http://www.betterscanning.com/scanning/dismantling.html<br> <br />You can find that replacement bulb online. When you remove it, check for the ID number and use that to narrow your search.<br> Doug</p>

<p>>>Unfortunately, the devil is in the details: I found glass sandwiches degraded quality and introduced Newton Rings. Put a texture on the glass to "defeat" Newton Rings was only partially successful, and degraded image quality further.<<<br> This solution isn't a glass sandwich so there isn't any AN glass added into the optical path.</p>

<p>The second lens that is supposed to focus at 3 mm off the glass is the one Epson claims is the higher resolution lens. It has a narrower field of view though and can't cover 8x10". People use my mounting station for 5x7" regularly so you aren't limited to 4x5" with this lens. Just like the second lens, the first lens that is supposed to focus at the glass may or may not focus right at the glass. Every scanner is different so you just have to test your unit which is why developed the variable height feature that Epson later implemented.<br> <br /> Doug</p>

<p>For 35 mm on a flatbed, you are going to want/need every bit of true resolution you can get from the scanner. Dmax performance is also very important if you have any slides to scan which can be rather dense. For that much money, it would be nice if you could try some real world sample scans of your own film to see if there is an appreciable difference.</p>

<p>FWIW, If you have a Samsung 840 EVO SSD, you need to manually update the Samsung software and then the firmware of your drive. For some reason the software will not update itself to ver 4.6. When you do update to 4.6, it will finally show you there is actually a firmware update. This firmware addresses (in a hacked way) a potential data loss issue on these drives.</p>

<p>Are you sure you had the film holder oriented correctly on the scanner with its calibration gap toward the back/hinge end of the scanner? Did you make sure nothing was covering (above or below) the calibration gap at the top of the holder (e.g. extra film flowing over)? I am guessing you already had the white insert pulled out of the lid of the scanner.<br> Doug</p>

<p>If you search, you can find discount codes for 15% off the whole collection. These have worked in the recent past and may still work so you might want to give each of them a try to see if any still work:<br />HDRsoftware15<br />KENK<br /><strong>cdodds</strong></p>

<p>Ian - take a look at this article I just came acroos where Keith Cooper tells how he uses a Munki with to build b/w profiles for QTR. I think it might be a solution for you.<br> http://www.northlight-images.co.uk/article_pages/bw_printing/bw_print_colormunki.html</p>

<p>I had the same situation and found there was a setting I had to change. I can't find the reference to confirm but I believe it was Edit > Preferences > Advanced > check "generate monitor-sized previews". If that isn't it, then do a little more exploring and experimenting within the advanced settings.</p>

<p>Bummer but that software is pretty old. Not sure if the new version that X-rite provides still has the freely accessible module or not and if the Munki is even on that list.<br> Try searching the archives of this group. If you still can't find a definitive answer, post a note to the forum. The archives of this group's posts is an amazing resource. <br> https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/QuadtoneRIP/info<br> <br />Here is another great group of people, many who use Quadtone RIP, that may be able to advise:<br> https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/DigitalBlackandWhiteThePrint/info</p>

<p>Start reading at the top of page three of this QTR Tutorial to learn how to use your Munki to create your own custom profiles for QTR:<br /> http://www.diallophotography.com/pdfs/QTRworkflow.pdf</p>

<p>The printer does not measure the actual amount of ink that flows out of the cartridge. The ink monitor is just a software guess based some unknown set of factors like on days passed and printer printing time. If you have a defective cart that drained itself into the printer waste pad, the software has no idea about it and thus displays your cart as half full when it is not. On the other hand, if the software algorithm over estimates ink usage then you get a low ink error when there is actually plenty of ink left in the cart. You can continue printing until the cart is much closer to empty. The printer does somehow know when there is no more ink left coming through the cart and will stop the printing before doing damage to the print head so that you can then switch the cart. If this happens mid print, you can usually switch out the cart and finish the print successfully. The gotcha is that once you receive the low ink error the printer software will not let you do a cleaning cycle if you develop a clog. </p>

I would not be surprised if it can be resurrected with just a bit of effort. Along the line that others have suggested, before powering it up I would give each cart a shake, let it start up and then do a nozzle check to see how bad things appear. Since a major clog is likely, I wouldn't do more than a couple of cleaning cycles before resorting to the use of the soaking method using Simple Green. Google it or go read the archives at the large format Epson printer group at Yahoo Groups.

<p>On your old one, you should try very lightly lubricating the metal rods/rails on which the scanning head slides. You might try putting some very light machine oil sparingly on a paper towel and rubbing that along all of the surface of each rod. You want to avoid getting any on the optics of the scanner and/or applying so much that it slowly will vaporize inside the scanner and migrate to leave a coating on surfaces.</p>