kram

<p>Andre, I owned an RB back in the '80's. My very first job was shooting portraits with it at the illustrious Stewart's Portrait Stdudio working for a blue haired, beehived lady by the name of Dottie Brown.<br>

When I was recently lusting after a 120/5.6 macro lens for my Rolleiflex SL-66, I realized that I could get an RB Pro-S with 140mm macro for the same price! Yes, these lenses are so cheap now that it's a steal! I saw some places still listing the same lens for $1400!<br>

Paul, thanks so much! I'm still getting used to the RB, mainly it's heft! I should post me work on some other sites too. I'll post some of my RB work here.<br>

Now... I think I need to find a deal on a 50mm!</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Norman, thanks so much. I got it off with the help of a small plastic spatula. It was metal and as you said a very snug fit.<br>

I feel better now.</p>

<p>For those who may find this in the future it is the ring indicated by the red arrows in my sample picture.<br>

Now to shoot!</p>

<p> Rear of lens: I see no rubber ring?<br>

<img src="http://kr.am/cQ" alt="" /></p>

<p>I just got a brand new Mamiya 90/3.5 KL L lens that will not mount to my Pro-S body. Mamiya themselves told me that it will fit but that I may have to remove a spacer ring on the rear of the lens.<br>

I do not see any "spacer ring" on the back of the lens unless it's the ring which rotates to hold the lens on the body. If so not sure how the lens would function without it. Now must I but a Pro-SD body or am I missing something?</p>

 

<p>Hi Nathan, I owned a GS-1 for many years and had a Beattie Intenscreen in it and it worked fine. I used it in many situatins and it was a big improvement over the original.<br>

That said I have a Maxwell screen in my Rollei's and they are wonderful.</p>

<p>I know this an old thread but I just got a brand new Mamiya 90/3.5 KL L lens that will not mount to my Pro-S body. I do not see any "spacer ring" on the back of the lens unless it's the ring which rotates to hold the lens on the body. If so not sure how the lens would function without it. Now must I but a Pro-SD body or am I missing something?<br>

Help anyone?</p>

<p><a href="../photodb/user?user_id=5092030">Tarjei Larsen,</a> please let us know how you like it. Considering one myself.</p>

<p>OK, I am <em>very</em> impressed that Mamiya asnwered my question which I asked on Sunday, today (Monday) before noon!<br>

And it was about something they no longer sell.<br>

Here is the answer: "The 6x8 screen gives you a slightly wider view, but does not show the entire 6x8 frame. Memory and experience will be needed to determine the extra image area you get with 6x8. It is perfectly acceptable to use the stock RB screen with a 6x8 back. "<br>

There we have it.<br>

I'll need to get some experience. Camera and back are due to arrive Friday. I should have some samples to share the following week, Thanks again everyone for attempting to solve this riddle!</p>

<p>Thanks everyone! Very interesting. I emailed Mamiya. Will report when (if?) they respond.<br>

I have a feeling that I will have to imagine what lurks outside the 6x7 viewfinder.</p>

<p>I just bought a 6x8 back and Mamiya RB from KEH. I'm trying to determine if a special focus screen is needed to see the entire area in the viewfinder or not. Mamiya is rumoured to make a special screen for 6x8, a "#7", but I can't find it for sale anywhere.</p>

<p>Anyone know?</p>

<p><img src=" alt="" />I've spent the last three years doing cemetery photography using Rolleiflex's.<br /> Here's a preview: http://markcolman.com/books/hiddenwithin/<img src=" alt="" /></p>

<p>Michael, I have an Epson 4990 too! I'm shooting with a Rolleiflex SL-66 (my favorite camera). I may go the drum scan route, have to see how the 4990 does.</p>

<p>Thanks for all the great info everyone. A lot to think about!<br>

I'm going to start with Ilford Pan F in Xtol, maybe 1:2.<br>

Robert Acros is my favorire film and I will try Xtol 1:2, thanks for the suggestion.<br>

Bruce, I would *love* to shoot some 8x10 tri-X. I haven't in twenty years but I remember it in all it's glory. Can't afford the camera though!<br>

Keith, never heard that color neg film is generally sharper than most black and white film. Something to think about.<br>

I'll post some results in a few weeks and perhaps I may continue my quest.<br>

Thanks again for your wisdom!</p>

<p>I am going to do some studio still life work, black and white, 120 and I want to be able to make big prints, say 36x36".<br /><br />What's the best slow film and developer combo out there right now. I'll have plenty of light so slowness is not a problem.<br /><br />Most likely the final result will be scanned negs to archival inkjet prints.<br /><br />If you have a formula, I'd love to see a sample 100% crop or some such.<br>

I currently use Acros in Xtol 1:1. I like it but want to see if I'm missing something which might be better, like Kodak's Tech Pan.</p>

 

<p>Just tested my "new" Pancolar 50mm 1.8 zebra (yellowed glass, some fungus inside and on back element, stiff focus) with a Helios 58m 44-2 (single 0 serial # FWIW) and a SMC Pentax 55mm 2.0.<br>

They all had their strengths but the pancolar was the sharpest, seemed to have the most pleasing bokeh and just had that certain <em>something</em>. The Helios was quite sharp too and the more modern coating on the Pentax lead to better color rendering (but with camera RAW not a big issue). Best $40 lens I ever bought. I'm in love!<br>

I should say that my test shots were all between wide open and one stop down from wide open. I'm sure things would even out after a few more stops down. All great lenses and cheap!</p>

<p>Thanks all for your responses. Looks like I am in the market for an PowerMac G3?</p>

<p>Still loving my Rolleiflex 2.8C (Xenotar) and Rolleiflex SL-66. I am a 20+ year pro photographer.<br>

This link is to my new book. All images were shot with pre-1970 TLR's and the SL-66:<br>

http://bit.ly/mark-colman-book</p>

<p>They do add a level of "tacky". Your linked image has more class without. It's not about the border but the image itself.</p>

 

<p>I have a Canoscan FS 2710 that gave me great scans back in the day, but it's SCSI! I've read that there are adapters (SCSI to USB, or firewire?) but also read that this did not work.<br>

I have an intel Mac and and a pre-intel Mac. Anyone know a solution?<br /> <br /> Really cannot afford a new dedicated film scanner and the 2710 was a great performer.</p>

<p>I almost always shoot my 2.8C Xenotar at one half stop down from wide open. Seems to help a lot. This is an interesting thread. Love to see some results from wide open Rolleiflex's. Maybe we should start another thread?</p>

I never liked the idea of autofocus. A good viewfinder, rotate the lens and walla! You have focus.Why all pro's were sold out, by manufacturers, to autofocus is beyond me. I suppose most cameras are sold to amateurs.

 

Is manual focus that hard? Not with a decent viewfinder.

 

I do not have a 40D. My 20D has a smallish viewfinder that makes manual focus somewhat difficult and tiring on long shoot days. I still do it, as autofocus often drives me mad.

 

Granted autofocus is a help to sports photogs. Otherwise I find it a nuisance.

Are you using a lens hood? Lovely portraits. Triotar rocks!

Real men hand hold.

 

...

 

;-)

Just kidding!

You vill not toy wit ze cogwheel!

;-)

 

Glad you're rolling Jeff. Nice image Mike.

 

Can't help with a lens source. There's Igor's (about the same price as Hadley). I'm looking for a 120mm macro, 250mm sonnar and Mike's lens above too. Someday.

You did remove the dark slide, right?