staticlag

Personally, I would shoot fast B&W.

It does look intresting, kind of like a fresco of sorts. Personally I wouldn't prefer it for portraiture, but for just shooting around, I think it would add a little spice to some pictures.

The bleeding effect is even more pronounced in the background, and the effect gets stronger when you use it on longer length lenses. On wide angles the filter does virtually nothing. If the entire scene is well lit, then the softness runs throughout. Here is another picture, I assure you that the horrible quality is solely my scanner, as this was taken at about 135mm on a 70-200 IS on Portra UC400<div></div>

This was taken with the B+W Zeiss Softar 1 77mm. This filter noticeably causes highlight areas to bleed into shadow areas, an effect I rather like when I am doing flash photography in bad lighting. Overall textures are softened, but contrast remains. An excellent filter (for $212.)

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<a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/2251444&size=lg">Example</a>

scotchguard is pretty useless, as rain will probably seep in though the seams and points of stress in the fabric. I would get a specifically waterproof bag if you were going to carry your equipment for any amount of time.

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or check this out:

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<a href="http://www.kirkphoto.com/protects.html">Kirk Enterprises</a>

Af assist is dependant on light levels, and wether or not the body can achieve focus without it. The EOS3 has better focusing ability than a drebel, and thus is more likely to not need AF assist.

 

Is the camera focusing? If so, why bother worrying about whether or not you are annoying people with red blinking lights?

Well, if you want a quality 24, then get the prime lens.

 

If you want a little upgrade to your system, then the 24-85 should replace your kit lens nicely, but it is not as fast as the prime lens, and has a bit more distortion at 24mm. Stopped down, the 24-85 is a good lens, its no L series, but its fairly high contrast and vignetting disappears.

 

If you never use the kit lens, then just get the 24 prime. If you use the kit lens most of the time, then just buy the 24-85 as an upgrade.

I have used windex /w ammonia on my EOS 3 viewfinder before and q-tips, eclipse and pec-pads are the best thing I found to use on my mirrors. The mirrors are tough, they can take some scrubbing.

;-) <i>Disconnected

Because Ettl finds out how much flash light is required to expose the subject via a preflash, and manual expects you already know how much flash light you need. The reason why the scale is set, is because it is easier to judge the f-stop you need when you use their scale of effectively "cutting flash light in half."

 

To use manual flash effectively, use the guide table in the flash manual booklet to find power/iso/distance conversions, or use a flashmeter.

I was cleaning all the consumer film out of my fridge recently, and I came across some HD400 I bought on a larf. I took it to a formal to get rid of it and took some pics with a T3, and damn, horrible prints!

 

Granted it was low-light and I had flash off, but, grainy prints from ok exposed negatives and mushy detail is not a good sign for moderate-speed film. Its not a good film for when you need 400 the most, its like they expect you to use it solely in bright conditions.

 

Or maybe I'm just too used to slide film.

I have the L-608, and its a really good meter. I like the fact that it displays exposure info while you are looking through the spot portion of it. I just meter once on shadow area, highlight area, and midrange area, then hit average and adjust from there as necessary.

Also bring some contact lens drops, sometimes the bridesmaids get red-itchy contact eyes and can't stop blinking for the picture.

Impressa is a sharp and clear film, but it has a crazy magenta cast my lab has trouble correcting. Time to find a new lab I guess. Reala is ok, but it seems very contrasty in harsh light, and not contrasty enough in overcast skies for my taste. Though the colors are dead on(most of the time, the rest of the time the classic fuji-green looks rears its head) and the skin tones are to die for! Kodak 160NC has never let me down if you like kodak.

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Here is my post from a previous article with a few pics in it.

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<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007wWb">Post</a>

Most wide angle lenses require that you get really close to your subject. When I photograph with my 35 or 50, i usually have to pratically stick the lens in someone's face to get the pics to turn out how I like them. Get close, fill the frame!

I've put 50 rolls through my T3 and have never had a problem with it. Got it in December.

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=222326&is=REG">Link</a>

I have EOS 3, and whenever this lens is on my camera, I have got one hand constantly supporting the lens reguardless of what I am doing. But what I like to do, when I am not shooting, and just standing around. Is take the camera strap from around my neck, and hang the camera/lens combo from my belt by it's(the lens') tripod mount. From the way the tripod mount is shaped on the lens, it can hang from a strap. It works well, it can support a EOS3 w/ PB-E2 and 550ex flash. I kind of like carrying this lens around though, it builds your arm strength, after a while it feels light as a feather.

<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&A=details&Q=&sku=249376&is=REG">Link</a>

You got it right the second time, it should be body, tube, teleconv, and then lens.

No, IS lens wont do anything if the subject is moving and it is dark. The background will be sharp, but you will still have blurred subjects, because they are moving.

 

I have used a 70-200 2.8 IS at a wedding before, I only used it for the altar pics and nothing else because you are just too close to the people the rest of the time. But I put it on a tripod at the back of the church, not using the IS feature at all.

 

Well, if you like to be unobtrusive, then the 24-70 is the way to go, as have the versatility to nail the shot of the parents in the next isle, and then switch to wide angle and take a pic of the flowergirl walking next to you.

No, Canon will not refund you anything for your trip or film, if that is what you mean.

 

I had a Kodak fail on me in Japan, and I got no pics out of 6 weeks there. Never buying a Kodak camera again.

you will see a tab on the frame holding the focusing screen, pull it towards you with your fingernail. This will drop the frame down and allow you to remove it. Make sure to hold the screen only by the edges or the tiny alignment tab. Also, dont wipe it, it makes it statically charged and attracts tons of dust to it forevermore. Use compressed air. To put it in again, just place so the tab lines up with the alignment mark again and push the frame up until you hear and feel a soft click, don't force it is should go really easy in removal and replacement, if not, then it is misaligned.

Ah, that reminds me of highschool and spending all day in class writing BASIC RPGs and statistics scripts on my good ol Ti-86 Graphing calculator.

 

More fun than gameboy :-)

Oh, and don't get an LCD, they suck at color balance/contrast and refresh rates.

 

Get a pro CRT flat screen.