staticlag

If it was an 80a blue filter, it would help correct for the yellow tungsten glow usually found in indoor pictures.

It depends on how charitable you feel. For $700 you could shoot 13 rolls(pro color film) and have 4x6 proofs done by a prolab.

Popluar Photography and imaging does tests on all the lenses and reports the best preforming aperature for virutally all lenses. But you need to pay for the tests that are archived.

 

Check their magazine/website.

<a href="http://net.unl.edu/artsFeat/dondolltrans.html">Fr. Don Doll, S.J.</a>

It is because the background is so far away from the subject.

Thanks again everyone!,

 

Before I buy anything, I plan on trying to rent a MF system from my local semi-pro shop. I will probably only be able to rent a Hassie, but it can at least give me an idea of the exact focal length that I would like. I am also now seriously considering a DSLR to compliment the EF lenses I already own. I would like the 1DS, but I have watched digital imaging since its birth and my brain has trouble accepting that the shoddy images I saw seven years ago can even begin to compete with a solid object unto which an image is embedded(film).

overexpose the superia by 1 stop and you should have no problems correcting for normal stadium lighting during printing/scanning. I hope you have a fast long lens.

an x-ray lens.

Viagra for lenshoods perhaps?

If you need to ask, then you probably don't need it.

<I>"general consumer expectation of consistancy"</i>

<P>

Consumers dont expect consistancy! They expect bright and shiny things in colorful packaging.

<p>

Pros(or people with OC) expect consistancy, which is why they pay more for pro-film, or anything else.

When in the United states, you need to call canon to have them send you an application.

Gary, you seem to only have 2 zooms in your current system.

 

And your wishlist is full of zooms.

 

Prehaps you should take a look at some prime lenses before you make such a big investment into zooms. People here have already mentioned some great picks. If you like event photography and portraiture, buy the canon 100/2, sharp wide open, and deadly after 2.8.

 

Its a win-win investment, as the 70-200 is quite heavy and won't fit in any reasonably sized case with your other lenses, so the 100/2 will be your lightweight portrait lens.

 

I carry mine with me everywhere.

I made a post eariler this year, and it has some sample pics(scanned on a good scanner!) from reala, gold 100, gold 200, and impressa 50, if you are intrested, here is the link:

<p>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=007wWb">Konica Impressa 50??? - Chromatic Abberation??? - Both?</a>

<i>"Regarding your scientific approach it is not fair to shoot FD 2.8/200 glass vs. EF 2.0/100 vs. IS lenses, sometimes use the polarizer (EOS 3 70-200 2.8 IS. B+W MRC CIR POL) and sometimes not. Then scan from the prints vs. negs."</i>

<p>

I used techniques that I knew would produce good results with the other films (pol, sky, warming), because I wasn't testing them.

<p>

I shot the "test" film in question on an unfiltered FD lens because I wanted to see how it would handle a neutral situation, I even used an incident meter for it!

<p>

I scanned the prints from reala and the impressa because my goal is to get good print results straight from the lab, and if the prints can't compete head to head straight from the lab, then I might as well not order prints. The only reason I had the negs scanned was to demonstrate a very good push of 2 stops.

<p>

Thanks for replying though, I always appreciate discussion.

<p>

-Dan

D[igital] Image

Shoot black and white film, it is very economical, and you can see the results after about 10 min of developing.

<p>

<i>"the moment has passed and I can't recreate the ideas that went into the shot."</i>

<p>

You might have a major problem if this is indeed the case. I think you should spend more time reading up on photography technique so you can learn exactly what to look for while composing the image. Take more time in looking at exactly what is in the viewfinder, the natural tendency for a beginner is just to point and shoot, and you really can't do that(rely on luck) if you want consistently "good" pictures. Double checking exposure, focus, and framing are the basics of photography. I can look at any of my pictures and tell you the settings I used to within 1 stop of their actual value. That is not because I necessarily remember what I entered, but because I know what each environment needs to produce a picture. There are exposure charts all over the internet, I suggest you read up!

For basic assignments, no. But for some assignments there is the potential to sell to the subject, and I would like to use it to get better enlargement results in those cases.

 

Thanks for the help everyone, How is the manual focusing action(the dampening) of the AF lenses, when compared to the manual focus lenses?

 

Jason: Thanks for offering, yes I do know that 50mm on MF is a moderate wide angle. It never hurts to bring up these things.

 

Another question: What kind of relatively compact bag should I buy to carry this system?

<i>"killer contrast"

</i>

<p>

If your flash isn't powerful enough to light the room, then everything gets blocky around the falloff and hotspots because of the high contrast of the film. What Scott said is true, but even with Fuji processing I like the warm colors better than any fuji alternative.

Hello, I am a photojournalist, and am looking to get into medium

format. I have chosen the Rollei 6008AF system as my entry system,

and was wondering which lenses work with the AF ability of the

camera?

<p>

I am looking at getting the 50mm f/2.8 Schneider Super-Angulon PQS as

my main lens, and was wondering if it worked with the AF technology.

Is this a good lens? Will it be able to take full advantage of the

camera's technology? Is there any better 40-50mm alternative?

<p>

Also, could someone recommend a portable flash that would compliment

this system? I would like enough power to provide adequate fill in

various daylight situations.

<p>

Thanks,<br>

-Dan

With electronic flash indoors, this film has killer contrast.

That is of course in relation to 160NC.

 

Here is an example, though my scanner is very bad and messed up the contrast. The colors are fairly accurate to the print, but the print has much less contrast.<div></div>

I like portra 160VC a lot, outdoors, it gives all colors a nice boost and has smooth colorful skin tones. The prints look very rich, but not oversaturated, the 160 version of this film is fine-grained(the 400 version is grainy at 4x6).

Straight out of the Pool!<div></div>

Water "fun"<div></div>