gavin martin

Hi All

And lo, there was the FD mount. I'm looking to ditch some camera gear

that doesn't get used much including an Eos 500 & a TLR amongst

others. I still want to keep on a nice SLR & fancy the Canon FD

system as the prices are great.

I think I'm after either the Canon (new)F-1 or a T90. What I would

appreciate is some advice on the FD range & those camera's or better

alternatives if I've missed them.

My requirements are, robust, varied climate friendly, PC socket, good

internal metering (spot would be nice), Dof preview would also be a

bonus. Generally a good pro, all-rounder. I'm happy with manual gear

& focussing (Workhorse camera's a Hasselblad).

Basically something that I can use at the top of Mont Blanc at -30,

in the deserts of Arizona or just as well in the studio running some

flash heads.

I'm a medium format man so I'm not up on FD kit, I only know a bit of

EOS.

Thanks for your help on this.

Gavin

I can't offer a comparison between the two but, I have used the Centon 500mm mirror lens once. I used it at an airshow on a Canon EOS body & got some good results. Nice & sharp, bags of good colour & contrast. Good results from a £99 lens! Big words that from a Hasseldblad/Zeiss user.

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

A good TLR is always worth considering. I still have an old YashicaMat 124G that give great results. The meter's suprisingly good at averaging a scene, the lenses are sharp & the thing weigh's nothing. That should set you back not much over £100. If you wish to spend more then you can look at Rollei's, although you're getting into the realms of used SLR's in price then. The benefits of SLR systems are huge with changeable backs & lenses.

A better option to the TLR in my opinion is an SLR. I shoot on a Hasselblad 500CM kit & have never regreted the purchase. This would be my number one recommendation for 6x6 at around £700 for a full camera in good condition. Otherwise the Bronica SQAi is a popular choice in 6x6 although the build quality is nowhere near as good as the Hasselblad's & some find them too plasticy.

regards

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.com

again. The vertical images go off of the bottom of the page. I would suggest scaling them to fit a 1024 screen or introducing a scroll bar. Ideally they should be made to fit so that the viewer can see the entire image on the screen at the same time.

regards

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

alternatively . . . . .

if you want double exposures in register without having to remove the back there is another way. Obviously it works better with long exposures but you can shoot on the bulb setting & just remove & replace the lens cap for each needed exposure or use card/something suitable to cover the lens.

Just a thought

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

I also agree that you should get yourself a large hat. Preferably something flamboyant that really stands out, this instantly gives you the air of 'creative person' as an added benefit to helping you compose without glare.

Gavin

I think the guys have given you some good advice there.

On the day it's well worth making sure that you are well covered. Fortunately shotting digital you don't have to worry about taking a few different speeds of film. However, ensure that you're batteries & spares are on full charge, your storage is empty & ready for use. It's also well worth taking a decent flash for fill-in if needed & a small reflector too if you have one. Usefull if you are near a window & want to just use daylight.

Gavin

I think people have pretty much covered the difference there. The A12 (A is for automatic) is a later version & gives you a frame counter rather than a hole in the back & there were a few other revisions. The older '12 on' back are getting pretty ancient now. I would go for ok condition A12 backs as there's likely to be more life left in the mechanics. Teeth on the gearing wears after a while & winding on starts to get a bit eratic followed by a gear toothe breaking casusing frame overlap & other pains.

Repairs are costly to Hassy gear & it's probably going to be cheaper to buy another second hand back than pay shipping & repairs on a broken one. Saving a few pounds may be a false economy.

hope that helps

Gavin

We used to clean up transparencies with soft Selvyt cloths & lighter fluid (the zippo kind). They come up a beauty after that & it cuts through grease, etc. Alas we decommisioned the Rostrum & E6 imagers quite a while back now!

Gavin

When loading 120 film I know that some people swear by the method of clipping a tiny portion off of the leading corners to stop them sticking in the reels.

I use plastic reels & those are pretty easy to get a 120 roll onto.

regards

Gavin

I have a good pair of Prolinca lights that can be used as either hot lights (always on, tungsten bulbs that you must use tungsten film or colour correct for) or strobes. for practicality strobes are better. Less power needed, if you are looking for portable then this is a serious consideration. Also the light is more powerful so your exposures are much shorter. Great for portraiture.

To check light & exposure through my Hasselblad I shoot polaroids on it. If you are shooting digital then you can check on the camera to ensure that you are happy with the results.

Other things to consider. Under 'hot' lights models tend to squint as the very bright light is always in their eyes, unlike a strobe (flash). Also, don't under estimate the heat that they produce, people will sweat, makeup will melt. You must always make sure that you have mains everywhere too.

I am of the opinion that the best solution for you would be a portable strobe & optional softbox. The fact that most studios are fitted with strobes should give you a hint as to the general photographers choice too.

regards

Gavin

If you can get it cheaper abroad, buy it abroad I say. A little competition does companies good. The more people from the US buy them here, the more Mamiya US will have to take notice.

The fact that you're from the US means that you can deduct the 17.5% tax from the final cost of the camera too giving you quite a bargain. Surely the money saved makes it worth any potential shipping costs for a repair. UPS can do very quick deliveries from UK to US. A repair may only take a week or so. Same as shipping internally in the US.

Gavin

I would say as a rule of thumb. When taking the pictures you should agree thing there & then rather than leaving yourself in the situation of having to try & re-locate individuals. The best thing would be to pay a fee (however large or small as this gesture can make a difference legally) and then to havea simple model release form with you (keep a handful in your camera bag anyway, just in case). This way you would have been able to explain why you were taking them & agree useage there & then. Yourself & the subject are clear & happy on what's going on & you are personally covered by the release that you have kept from the encounter.

Secondly, publishing. Without knowing the details of your deal with the editor it's hard to comment. Unless you've signed over the rights to the images to a third party or directly to the magazine then they remain yours & are bound by whatever restrictions you place upon their useage. If your deal is such that you have been paid to provide a selection of your own work for publication then you own these images & you may insist that they are not cropped or manipulated in a way that would change the mood, perception of your original work. You may also ask to them to inform you of any changes that they wish to make for your approval before publication.

Alternatively, if you were paid to shoot these images to brief by the magazine & your contract states that the magazine retains the copyright then the images will not be yours & the IP rights become a contentious issue as whilst you actually created them, the initial brief or creative idea was not actually yours. The magazine can in effect do as they please with their images that they have paid you to produce on their behalf.

The best thing, if you konw which one of these applies to you, is to call the editor & clarify your retraints & the picture useage.

I sit on both sides of thhe fence as a photographer & a corporate buyer so I can see & understand the issues & needs of all parties here.

If you would like to discuss this further then please feel free to email me.

regards

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

Actually, there's no 'going back' as I'm staying with Hasselblad. It pays to keep an eye on what else is out there though :)

Gavin

I agree with Andrew's comment above. Start with soemthing easy. The hardest thing will be to take the first couple of shots so go somewhere like a sporting event, a gig by a local band, a skate park when there's a competition on. These people will want a picture & will be happy to pose for you or won't mind you wandering & taking candids. Use them to sharpen your skills & nerve before venturing out after the ultimate game . . . 'the great unknown public'!

As to how to approach people. Role play time. Think about your approach. Would you be offended by it if a stranger used it on you? If so it's back to the drawing board to work up a fresh one. The best approach is open, bold, quick & friendly. Be honest about why you would like to take the picture & if you plan to print it you can always offer a print.

The most common fear in play here is a psychological block relating to not being accepted by someone. The only way to get around this is to go out & be accepted

Hope this helps.

Gavin

asa 6x6 user. Hasselblad's are great & the ack of batteries means you won't get caught out. You can do anything with a 500CM which won't cost you the earth. The later models will start to rise in price but will also start to offer more features like ttl flash etc. Don't buy the old C lenses though as flare is an issue. Get the 'CF T*' versions - I wouldn't say it's worth buying the latest lenses unless you have money to burn. Overall, rock solid, all metal, build quality will run & run. Great system with everything compatible with everything & you can buy Hassy stuff anywhere on the Globe. Great 'look' from the lenses, they do have that unique colour & contrast.

Other than that I would say that the alternative I would, & have considered is the Bronica SQAi - problems being build quality (too much plastic) & see my recent thread for user reviews. I decided not to go there. Lenses are still very sharp but don't have quite the same look with colour & contrast being a touch less present. Still a good kit though & price wise is very good in it's offering. Certainly a cheaper set up but I would not trust it on a years assignment away from home due to reliability.

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

I agree. Go for the Lowerpro backpacks or wheeled cases. A shoulder bag will kill you wiath all that weight after a while walking around.

I use the mini trekker which fits my 500CM space for a couple of lenses, polaroid back, 2 A12 backs, loads of film, meter, & still has some space left over.

Gavin

Who is this guy? I must meet him, sounds like the dream camera dealer.

This months deal folks: "Buy a roll of velvia & get the camera free!!"

Why don't you post a little round up your experience with the RB in a few weeks once youve had some use from it. Good for potential buyers to see from the point of someone new to the system & get their thoughts.

Gavin

Hi Guys. Thanks for your replies on this one. You've me helped a lot in assessing the system. You can read the brochures all you like but until you havr used it for 6 months I don't think you really know a camera.

Stefan, feel free to mail me details of the kit & a price.

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

Hi all.

Now before I start 2 things. First off, I know there's a few posts on

here already for the SQ system, but they don't really have the info

I'm looking for. Secondly, I've used medium format for ages & know of

the other systems that are out there (and for the 'BUY HASSELBLAD!'

fans I already own them).

I'm looking for objective info on the Bronica SQ-Ai system as I have

had my eye on them as a Hasselblad alternative for a while. 6x6 fan

you see.

Can people comment on the pro's & con's of the camera & the system as

a whole. Any essentials missing? The essential Mirror lock up & Bulb

exposure are now fitted as standard I presume? I know the old SQ was

missing some of these obvious features.

People have questioned the reliability of the body. Anyone had one

break? Cheap/expensive/easy/quick to fix? If so how often has it gone

wrong? Anyone owned them for years & had no problems?

Does it rip through Batteries or do they last more that a few rolls?

(it matters in the mountains!).

Lenses, (I know they are sharp & don't wish to start the Zenzanon vs

Zeiss debate). Feedback on the good & bad ones in the system?

Probably looking at a 50mm, 80mm & a 150-ish. I believe the PS is the

multi-coated right?

Generally I'd like to glean as much info on the good & bad points of

the SQ-A & Ai from the people in the know with actual experience of

the cameras.

Thanks in advance guys & play nice now ;)

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

Order it up from a Thai outlet to pay Thai prices & have it DHL'd to your hotel in order for it to be there waiting upon your arrival. Ta Da! Fresh film, cheap prices, no airport worries & no extra bulk on the way over. Lots of people work this way.

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

Either have the screen changed in the 500C, or for the cost of the 500C, the new screen & the labour, just sell the body & get a 500CM body. Newer, a few revisions to it & you can change screens easily. Most people already will have. The brighter screen does make a big difference. Certainly check the backs for light leaks around the dark slide seals - these do rot but are very easy to change yourself.

Tripod wise I use a manfrotto 190 and the magesium head with a hasselblad quick release mounted on it. Very sturdy, very versatile. Not too bad on weight. Otherwise the carbon options about £200 more.

hope that helps

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

You can get a PDF version of the Hasselblad 500CM manual from my website. www.urban-landscapes.co.uk . I collect old manuals in the resource section.

Secondly the red numbers on the meter are in the EV scale & will correspond to the red scale on the barrel of the lens. An EV number is one setting that will correspond to an aperture setting & a shutter speed together. It's a sliding scale. You can mail m for more details on this if it doesn't make sense.

Enjoy

Gavin

Noooo. Holgas are now way overpriced! I bought a few ages ago for myself & friends to mcuk about with & glue things too. I joked at the time that rather than import 3 I should get 300. Had I have known that they would retail 6 months on for £40 rather than the £10 I paid . . . Still great results though . . & that a bold statement from a hasselblad user. Cheap & cheerful is a fun way to work :)

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk

Good things to check for & points to note.

Pull the darkslide from the back & re-insert it a few times. This should be smooth & offer no resistance. If it does need effort or there is any black dust or sticky black residue then the light trap is rotten & must be replaced before the back can be used properly. This is either a very cheap, quick & sooo easy DIY job or a very expensive, send away for weeks job.

Secondly, the lens must ALWAYS be cocked before re-mounting on the body - check the 'screw head indent' lines up with the red dot on the lens before mounting on the body, if not use a coin to turn it & re-cock the shutter. Never force anything on a hasselblad, if it's meant to be there it will fit into place perfectly. If it doesn't somethings not right.

Learn how to thread the film & memorise this well . . . every now & again even seasoned Blad users have a brief second of "woah, hold on, oh yes, I remember!".

When you load film ensure that the paper leader slips under the silver film clip to the edge of the pressure plate.

Remove everything & give the whole camera a good dusting

Look through the lens & check for hair/dust between the elements. Sometimes it creeps in, this won't always focus onto the film plane & affect the image though.

Shoot a test roll asap & leave the camera in sunlight halfway through & expose all sides the sunlight well. This will indicate any light leaks around the body. Check your test film for scratches, fogging, etc.

Check the back shutters on the body move all the way up & down, sometimes they don't clear properly & sag into view of the film plane. Check that they are light tight when closed by looking through the front whilst the lens is off.

If you have any questions or need help then please feel free to mail me. If I find a manual online I'll post it with the others on my website.

regards

Gavin

www.urban-landscapes.co.uk