walter_degroot
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Posts posted by walter_degroot
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<p>I was recently asked for enlager manual info<br>
after the crash i no longer have it<br>
bu here is one cource<br>
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<p>MOST PHOTOGRAPHY S 1- INSIDE A BUILDING<br>
OR 2- OUTSIDE IN DAYLIGHT.<br>
Insidwe often with a flash. the walls change the erxposure by reflecting light. n a church or large hall or a sports arena ( often lighted)<br>
exposure must be adjusted to allow for the lack of reflection<br>
from the walls of an average room.</p>
<p>Outside in daylight the sunlight acted as a fill-background light.<br>
You may notice snaps taken in a suburban back yard or at a picnic grove display the background as not as bright as remembered.<br>
this is because the flash is brighter and causes the distant backgrownd not to be properly exposed.<br>
outdoors i the open. the fl;ash and the tolerance or film or the digital sensor will expose groups of people more or less properly.<br>
but skylines hills or scenes- even if lighted- wil b poorly exposed.<br>
in this case some thought and manual settings- not always possible with modern cameras- will be required/<br>
not to go back into history<br>
BUT Modern Photograp[hy published a guide for many common situations.<br>
Many modern cameras are not well suited for most night-time scenes.<br>
I know that a gude ( no line) for my Old Canon G2 showed it night-tie scenic<br>
capabilities it has a fast lens.</p>
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<p>i have my old GE golden crown pr-3.<br>
it is easy to use and pretty much a universal meter.<br>
set the asa ( iso) with a magnifier and the rest is easy- wven with poor eyes.<br>
mine still seems ok after 40 years.<br>
pointer, as far as I recall, has no lock.<br>
the standard is the weston meter but the [<br>
I also buily a Knight-kit cd s meter.<br>
It needs some kid of mercury or zinc-oxide cell (2)<br>
it features a Honneywell taught-band meter.<br>
which makes it resistant to bumps.<br>
( allies radio corp)<br>
an at the time was known as the "<br>
poor man s luna six)<br>
it sold for under $20.00</p>
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<p>free as in free but hard to figure out<br>
well i tried but did not finf a way to download nything/<br>
maybe it is just my eyes?</p>
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i have sort of a pet peve.
my first three cars were Studebakers.
Possibly because the dealers were friends.
But I left the Studebaker site because nobody left the cars stock.
they always had to change something.
Other cars were altered and grilles replaced ( someties the results
were ugly)\A few models from the 1950 s and 1960 s could use a little
"enhancement"
But most, at least according to my thoughts" were just fine as they
were originally made.
We owned a "sort of" Victorian home., and subscribed to the "old house
Journal" a rear page was always dediucated to "":old house remuddling"
I generally feel the same way about many car modicications.
OF COURSE the man, who in the 1950 s had an old old car with a exposed
radiator cap with a cap gun attached to the chrome radiator cap and
fired with a long wire. that was cool.
Or the man with an old chevy coupe who cut out the firewall and
installed a mammon straight 8.
or the 1950 ford with a flathead 1948cadilac engine.
I loved those "sleepers"
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<p>I agree that Black cmeras are beauties and "<br />classics"</p>
<p>I almost bought a black Miranda sensorex from essex camera service when they were in Jersey city.<br>
but I a more reminded of the letter in Modern Photography.<br>
Black cameras were considered to be PRO and many wanted a blkack camera.<br>
Modern, I think in a column gave instructions, very specific instructions"<br>
on howto remove the top and bottom vovers and prep ad spray the metal and bake it.<br>
it was carefully described/<br>
However some Yahoo<br>
took his crome cam,era and witout paying attention to this.<br>
aimes a spray can at his camera.</p>
<p>turns out according to what he wrote<br>
he ruined the camera.<br>
what a waste.<br>
and not paying attention.<br>
he was mad at th m,agazine for even suggesting this.</p>
<p>I never went so far.<br>
I DID ues a yellow china marker to fill in the white engravings on my Konica c-35 RF camera.</p>
<p>I wonder if that guy ever got his camera working again?</p>
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<p>loading a tank is a manual skill. just like learning to tie shoos in Kindergarten.,<br>
I started with 120 film and an old tank in 1948.<br>
the wider grooves halped<br>
later in 1950 127 film and a FR Special tank.<br>
I still have that tank and some new ones. from 1960 on I used only 35mm film.<br>
the sharp hook in the senter and leaning how to be gentle handling film helped as lot.<br>
the nikkor and other metal reels are more of a challenge.<br>
but practice in daylight wilth some film and you will get the hang of it.<br>
Once learned, it is a manual skill youwill not forget.<br>
prectice.<br>
it is easy to becoe disoriented in the dark.<br>
you do not need eyes to do this. same as tying shoes.<br>
the worst thing to do is forcing the film ona reel.</p>
<p>Even though I seldom load film. I find when I do, the hand skillis still there.<br>
do not become discouraged.</p>
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<p>I HAVE A FEW B@W ROLLS PLUS TWO BULK ROLLS.</p>
<p>i have too many 35mm cameras to count.<br>
i also have 20+ rolls of color print film in the freezer.<br>
since the new walmart opened and has no mini lab,<br>
i have not used any colo film and only 2 or 3 rolls of b@w.<br>
there seem to be no mini-labs.</p>
<p>the other factor is my eyes.<br>
oct 11 is when i am supposed to have a cataract operation.<br>
we will see.<br>
meanwhile i take out the film cameras<br>
the argus af, the kodak signet, the miranda s, pentaxes and the canons.<br>
they will, I hope , eventually get used<br>
I also have digicams. Including a 10mp Olympus xz-1. donaTED BY A PHOTO-NETTER<br>
THANK YOU AGAIN. <br>
THIS MAY BE ALL THE CAMERA i WILL EVER NEED/</p>
<p>lest I forget a seagull 203 and a speed and crown graphic 4X5 and a 4 x 5<br>
usmc combaT GRAPHIC.<br>
IF I LIVE SEVERAL MORE YEARS I HOPE TO USE THEM ALL<br>
OH YES A BOX OF 20" P&S 35MM</p>
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<p>this was the year after i was married.<br>
i dragged my poor wife to camera stores.<br>
i finally let her tay home and resy.</p>
<p>I was still using the Classic IV and the argus c-3.<br>
Later I bought a miranda D as it had a removable prism.<br>
BUT the external coupled diaphragm ( a la exacta)<br>
meant any future lenses would be preser.<br>
Later my brother gifted me with a Miranda sensorex and I boughht more lenses.<br>
I am still mostly interested in close ups and for that reason have the waist level and critical viw=ew finders.<br>
Back then either Kodachome or Plus-x were my films.<br>
Kodachrome and even plus-x are now gone.<br>
Kodak does not make B&W paper.<br>
but I am still thinking the same way.<br>
I have fully automatic cameras as well as 4 digitals, but the early full auto cameras sometimes confuse me.<br>
aaagh modern photography magazine and bert Keppler. How I miss them.<br>
Pop photagraphy magazine is the pits<br>
That is if they still publish it.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>i was just on the 'bay<br>
looking atused cameras.<br>
i purchased som pc memory<br>
and the $10.00back popped up/<br>
sure why not<br>
i did not object to giving out my e-mail affress and street address.<br>
BUT<br>
when they asked for my passwrd<br>
and bvank card number, i hit the red x<br>
and exited.<br>
i know i can send money to a person<br>
with only heir email address ( one they use for their paypal account)<br>
but my numbers are supposed to be kept secret.<br>
if ebay wanted ( or paypal) wanted to send me monet they don't need this info, only <br>
my email address.</p>
<p>is this a trick to get to my ( little)<br>
money?</p>
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<p>i have two mamiya auto 16 cameras and one<br>
other simpler sub-min camera. I even ( somewhere) have empty cartriges<br>
for the mamiya cameras.<br>
and a flange for the FR tank to develop 16mm film.<br>
I never used any or then.<br>
I l;ooked for a Mamiya " enla head"</p>
<p>this is a device that resembles an enlarging lens.<br>
it has condensers at the top<br>
and a slot for 16mm film and a 25mm enlarging lens.<br>
screws into your enlarger and sort-of converts it to a usable 16mm enlarger.</p>
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fashe bulns strted in the 30s 40
s and early 50 s as 121 and 22
the 11 was like a 60 watt bulb
the 5 bu;lns use a base like an auto tailhht bulb
with the same base as a household bulb.
L there were smallet bulbs with a 3.8" dialmeter base? with a groove
there was a common adapter that ft the bayonet sopcket.
and permitted the use of the - was it m2 and m3b
bulbs?
likely theargus flash holder early on used the screw base bulbs'and
later the bayonet -auto style- bulbs.
when I had a c-3 and an electronic flash, I used a cord with two ouls that fit the glash contacts.
I had mine apart and I think I found a way to change the timing.
but i did use the old electronic flash but do not recall if I could expose at faster speeds.
try flashing while the backl is open to check timing
it costs a LOT less.'
besides with today's fast films the flashj is far too bright.
The lens was sharp and you will be pleased with the phots
making an adapter could be a probkem.
but better to display the camera flash and bulbs in a display case.
there is an argus forum that can be a big help
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<p>i only own minolta p@s cameras.<br>
i like minolta, but did not get involved with a 4th lens mount.<br>
browsing the big bay site, I see lots of Minolta cameras of that era.<br>
I did "study" the brand enough to know the difference so the full apeture<br>
lenses would be my first choice if i were buying a minolta.<br>
i see lots of minoltas. and you should be able to get another for a low price,<br>
i, of course, would try hard to repair the screwed up camera.<br>
it would really botherme to have an almost working camera.<br>
enjoy film photography.<br>
i have yet to use all the canon cameras i sort of inherited</p>
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<p>i had corres[pndense wit anthony in the uk<br>
regarding a sigma 135mm miranda sensorex lens<br>
he said he would send a paypal invoice to cover costs.</p>
<p>my eyes, as you may know, are very poor.<br>
and i looked for but did not see an e-mail.</p>
<p>i don't really know how this works<br>
but i have sent cash tppeople in the past.<br>
i just sent it to an email address.<br>
I hope anthony sees this and I can<br>
get this lens. </p>
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<p>i apologize for not being on line to amswer<br>
the ofer to give away 2 rolls of ektachrome tunsten 50</p>
<p>I have been spenting most of my time workingO N not with my pc.</p>
<p>I think I finally have things working again.<br>
this pc would not go on line.<br>
adding Mozilla seemed to make it work.<br>
I was able tomake IE 8 install;</p>
<p>I have two pc s with the same mb.<br>
so drives work in both.</p>
<p>Back to film...<br>
I see no future in slide film.<br>
I did dume slides<br>
and I did make prints from both negs and slides.<br>
I will shoot soeme c-41<br>
anmd do B&W.<br>
I have many cameras - why not.<br>
health is better<br>
still waiting for two catarect operations.</p>
<p>but id someone is interested the ektachome e-6 tungsten iso 50 is waiting.</p>
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<p>you have a similar problem to the person wanting 620<br>
spools.<br>
I will give similar advice.<br>
see if a 120 spool will fit in the supply side<br>
develop it yourself.<br>
and look on the massive developing chart to find a way to develop<br>
to reduce speed.<br>
I think they Kodachome was not available at least for a long time<br>
in roll film sizes.<br>
if you have a tourist with an adjustable lens ans sgutter<br>
life will be eassier.</p>
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<p>i thought nobody still did ektachrone<br>
i have 2 rolls 135-36<br>
of e-6 iso 50 tungsten<br>
just sitting here waiting for soneone<br>
i wil still ( when and if i can see againb)<br>
some b&w wth a few of my many film cameras.<br>
scanner and 35mm enlarger</p>
<p>who would like some semi-rare iso 50 tungsten ektachrome?</p>
<p>I bought it to photograph hollowed out us coins<br>
but never used thge last two rolls</p>
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<p>to get you started<br>
try a 120 spool in the supply side<br>
i do not like the scheme of trimming edges of a plastic 120 spool.<br>
this often means loading in darkness.</p>
<p>if by lucky chance a 120 spool will fit in the take-up side<br>
you can fold a thin piece of metal or the very thick aluminum foil at the tops of some coffee cans<br>
or a snip from a soda can.</p>
<p>i think possibly " film for classics" is out of business.</p>
<p>anyway good luck.<br>
a source for reasonally priced film is<br>
photo warehouse<br>
or the web nane<br>
ultrafineonline.<br>
sorry only 120<br>
but possibly you can make use of some.</p>
<p>i have a reated issue with my argus a2 *1936(<br>
there is no suitable b&w film made.<br>
if i use 100 speed film, i can develop it in rodinal<br>
diluted as a iso 50 film</p>
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<p>i own a signet 35 as well as a pony with an adjustable shutter, abd a pony iv with few adjustmentsi was advised that my argus a-f (with focusing) is not really a f4,5 lens but smaller stops are ok.</p>
<p>poor vision has prevented me from taking photos<br>
but the lack og chest pains means all i need is a cateract operation.</p>
<p>i agree that the german and -do not know- japanese cameras of that era- early 1950,s were more advanced.<br>
voightlander made some tanks- heave not masny features but well made at that time.<br>
ogten sold in jewlers.<br>
i realize that elkectronic flash is not practial with many older cameras<br>
two reasons- they had M synch<br>
and possibly 1/30 wasthe shutter speed to use.<br>
also that had an asa post noy s pc connerction.<br>
OP have an adapter somewhere.<br>
but c aznnot find one on the big auction site.<br>
the third reason is the lack of slower film.</p>
<p>i can develop iso 100 film as iso 50 in rodinal. possibly other developers.<br>
OK I look forwars to seeing better</p>
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<p>I am surpeised. hp computers and laptops<br>
seem to be of high quality. But bad things do happen.<br>
My son has purchaed two dell laptops that were " refurbs" or returned from lease.<br>
they were originally priced at about $3000 and he got them for less than $500 each.<br>
that have large didplays. lighted keys and two HD bays.<br>
th advantage f a DELL is that a generic dell windows cd will install without a key.<br>
this is NOT a hack but a licensed agreement between microsoft and Dell.<br>
of course there is a limitation.<br>
meaning old software or too new software ( operating system) will hav problems finding the proper video or sound driver.<br>
both people are very pleased.<br>
If someone else gives you another suggestion fine.<br>
we are using HP desktops. with the original key.</p>
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<p>THANK YOU AGAIN FOR THE KIND THOUGHTS<br>
I am 80 and think my heart problems are suceffully repaired<br>
several doctore feel my old heart has been thru a lot.<br>
and there is a possibility they something else will " get me"<br>
I find recouperation to be slower than the 5 x bypass 12 years ago<br>
the chect pis stopped when they put in the new heart valve.<br>
remeber you vets, the VA will pay for it.</p>
<p>Jim sent me many canon cameras<br>
but I still love my miranda sensorexes ( not ee)</p>
<p>sometimes too muc automation comfuses me.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>sometimes while readinf a post i can reoly<br>
sometimes not</p>
<p>I log out and log in and sometimes it helps<br>
sometimes i shut down th browser<br>
but nothing is sure.<br>
any thoughts on how to make replying easier to do<br>
clkicking on the remeber me box does not seem to hsalp.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>first it was my wide fingers and manbe my hand-eye co-ordination<br>
as well as my poor vision ( hopefully corrected soon)<br>
I took an AE-1 wqith a 50mm lens. I was able to turn it to A or the f-stops<br>
-- yes I had figured out the button by the A.<br>
then I tried itwith the 35-70 zoom.<br>
At first iz had no luck. but pressing harder and carefi=ully I was able to move it to either f-stops or to A.<br>
sorry to be unsure but I fooled around with it last night and was totally unsucessful.<br>
as far as my health is concerned.<br>
both the VA and the hospital seem to be waithing for me to " get better"<br>
as far as I know there is a 25 pound lifting limitation due to be over in a few weeks.<br>
( cteracts othjer things)<br>
The procedurew was doe thru a catheter no chest cracking.</p>
<p>for those of you who are Veterans " veteran s choice"<br>
allows yu to pick a very good civilian hospitan for more serious procedures.<br>
it is covered by your va benefits.</p>
<p>thanks for the kind words. i will be 81in septemberr.<br>
and i sort of wonder if it is really s0.<br>
i seem to be treated like a really old guy.<br>
i suppose in a few years i will begin to feel old.<br>
this lens malfunction is more of a fumble-fingers issue.</p>
<p>btw when jim. a long term smoker was diagnosed, he sent me many of his canon a and t series cameras.<br>
and 4 eos rebels and one lens.<br>
i can still see well enough to frame and focus<br>
but those little numbrs and dials are beyond me.</p>
<p>ao.</p>
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<p>several weeks afo i bought a canon fd 35-70 lens.<br>
after several ambulnce rides, a new heart valve. i could not locate the lens.<br>
last night i found it again.<br>
mounted it on a canon body.<br>
it seems the lens aperture ring will not move off A.<br>
either on or opff the at-1 body.<br>
the A is at 11 o clock and the aperture settings at 2, as viewed from the front of the lens.<br>
it seems to be ob proply.</p>
<p>i bought this lns from the big reliable place in atlants.</p>
<p>any thoughts ?<br>
the aperture seems small and th f-stop rig winn not move.<br>
the mount is bayonet not the older locking ring type.</p>
<p>i have other canon fd bodies.</p>
35mm Mamiya Sekor E lens?
in Classic Manual Film Cameras
Posted
<p>a few years ago I joinded the mamiya form<br>
BUT all i have is two mamiya auto 16 cameras.<br>
I saw that the Mamiys M42 cameras seemed to be popular but pricey.<br>
While searchig I say that the company made several different mounts besides the M42.<br>
this was a turn off. Even my Miranda Sensorexed are easier to find than some of the Mamiya ( non-m42) cameras.<br>
<em> m sure If I had one of there I would get the " not only no but hell no"</em><br>
<em>response I get when asking about Mirandas<br /></em><br>
<em>As A result the M42 cameras may be ok<br /></em><br>
<em>but the others-- oddball by sesign.<br /></em><br>
<em>thisisnot to say they can be useful camewras.<br /></em><br>
<em> </em><br>
<em>the re are other makes/ that appeal to m,e more.<br /></em><br>
<em>only pentax k and canon fd are easy to deal wih.<br /></em><br>
<em>If I was starting over I would possibly choose minolta or Nikon.<br /></em><br>
<em> </em></p>