jamiew

Forget the SLR and take only a good P&S. I suggest a black Olympus Stylus Epic ($79 @ BH Photo), and load up on FUJI NPH (even though it's advertised as portrait, it is an awsome every day film). Fuji Relea would be my second choice.

 

If you insist on the SLR just be aware you are going to be thinking of the camera/pictures/keeping it dry as much if not more than your family when you are carying it. I imagine this is a multi day visit. My advise would be to plan one day about midway through where you will take all the photo stuff. I say mid way through because it gives you time to scout locations and enjoy the trip before, and if that day doesn't work out you still have other days left. Just remember that the Stylus will give you just as good pictures as the SLR, the only real limit is non-zoom.

 

No matter what the case dont forget a small table tripod that will hold up all your camera.

When you first bought your camera in the early 80's there was a distinct difference between consumer and professional 35mm systems. Back then all professional cameras, and almost all SLR's were mostly manual that you had to learn to use. Now days with the auto everything SLR they attract amatures to the fold. Amatures do not know, let alone, care about f stop (the reason all non pro SLR's have onboard flashes). So they buy based on price/size/weight more than glass quality.

 

Also inflation is a bitch.

The probably you are having is the exposure latitude of the film is not wide enough to capture both the bright blue sky and the dark shadded trees, and I actually think slide film will just exasperate the issue. I am not that into landscape photography, but what you need is a split neutral density filter (or you can take two exposures (one for sky and one for trees) and blend them in photoshop).

 

Another solution is to wait until the trees are front lit by the sun so the exposure latitude is within the film's range.

 

Hope this helps.

For casual family snapshots I love the 400 speed version and this is normally what I keep in my Yashica T4, but whenever I travel I take 160 for two reasons:

 

a. this might be paranoia, but less worries at airports

b. better if I am forced to use it for landscapes

BRian. You mention waiting until "full development". I assume you mean when the older lenses are 100% supported. I would guess, just as with Nikon, Canon, etc..) that once they make the switch to digital connections tfrom camera to lens, the older lenses will never be 100% supported. Just something to keep in mind

I think that Hal might be both correct and incorrect at the same time =)

 

I am not an owner of a digital EOS but I beleive that they have the ability to embed a jpg in a RAW file. That would imply that you could extract the jpg. But if you do not embed the jpg into the RAW file then that option would not be avaliable, however in that case you would have to convert the RAW file to jpg. Just whatever the case save the original RAW file.

Nicholas.

 

You should skip the G5 and the D30. Get the 300D (Digital Rebel). It has 90% of the improcments of the 10D over the D30 (we are talking speed here), it's new so no used worries, it takes all your lenses, and it shoots great up to ISO 800. I think the price is only about US$100 more than the G5 so it is right in your range. I dont know prices in UK though, but i would assume the differences will be similar. also if you are concerned with the build quality I say don't worry. D30 is also mostly plastic, and since they are non weather resistant digital cameras you are not gonna be using any of these in the wet (only the Canon 1D & 1Ds are weather protected).

 

I can;t beleive no one else mentioned this by the way.

I think the biggest issue you will have by switching between the two cameras is that it will be hard to get accustomed to the lens perspective since it will vary with each camera body. That being said here is what I would do:

 

Standard lens: 50/1.4 (or 1.8)

then

True telephoto (I like 80-400VR)

then

Wide angle

 

Please bear in mind that I love the 50 (75 with the D100) perspective and shoot most of my photos with that lens. The only time I really need to telephoto is when I really need a telephoto so I want a big telephoto (i'm saving for a 80-400VR to replace my 200). I dont use wide much so that is my last choice (currently using a 24/2.8)

First off there are 35 people and there are 50 people. I am in the 50 crowd. Please consider that when reading my advice.

 

If you goal is to travel light I would recomend a M6 with a fast 50, and a Voigtlander 15/4.5 or 21 (under $400). You will probably find yourself using whatever you actually have mounted on the lens greater than 80% of the time. These lenses are cheap enough to make the purchase worth it even if they get little use. They are also good quality, tiny, and are far enough removed from the 50 that you will have incentive to use them. Regarding taking both a 50 and a 35, I think it would be a waste of space in your pack. Given that you are taking only one body, they are so close to eachother that with will pretty much only use one. You might as well decide before you leave wich one it will be.

 

The suggestion of the tri-elmar is good advice with a 800, but you have to be careful here. Like what was said earlier, the reletively slow lens requires you to have fast film, and in some countries you might want to trek in they require you to pass all film through X-Ray machine(s). Also if you want big enlargements of the beautiful landscapes you are expecting to get, then slow film is the ticket.

 

I realize this is pretty opinionated, but I figured that's what you were looking at. A more objective jab at your question would be to figure out which lens you like the most, put it on the camera, then pick one (and only one) other lens you would love to try out. That way you have one safe lens and one experimental one.

 

Thanks~

I have a question that is 50% related to Canon EOS =). Basically I

was just given a Canon G3 digital camera and I need an external

flash. I am currently a Nikon user so I am not familiar with the

canon flash system, and do not want to spend money on a flash that

just gives me features that my camera can not use. The manual says

the camera is compatable with the 220EX, 380EX, 420EX and 550EX.

based on what I have read I am not sure I want to 220EX, but dont

know the difference between the 380EX, 420EX ad 550EX. Can anyone

help me out here? Does anyone have any experience with this camera?

I have reciently been given a Canon G3 as a present. I am

interested in purchasing the add on Wide angle and Telephoto

adaptors, but have a concern. They appear to be so large that they

will block the Af sensor on the camera. Does anyone know about

this, or have any experience with the camera. Also I am not

refering to the viewfinder being blocked at wide angle. That is

anoying, but does not effect picture quality. No AF will kill

picture quality.

 

Thanks~

Does anyone know where I can get an original Yashica T4 case? I

reciently lost mine.

 

Thanks~

I am looking to purchase a N2000 or N2020 since they see to be

undervalued now, and are reportedly well built. Can someone answer

the following questions for me:

 

1) Does the camera have mirror lockup when using the self timer (like

the fe2)

 

2) How large is the camera (in relation to the fe2)?

 

3) What are the differences between the n2000 and n2020(AF) other

than the AF. I am trying to figure if I should even bother with the

2020.

 

4) Do either of the cameras have interchangable focusing screens?

 

5) WHat is the max shutter speed in AP exposure mode (The fe2

officially says 8, but I have found it goes way higher... just

wondering f this camera is similar)

I am looking for the best take anywhere camera (no SLR cameras

please). A camera that will survive a dip in the pond, the dirt of

the desert, mud in the jungle, and still take good photographs. THe

primary use of this camera will not be to take pictures underwater,

but it might need to be used with me partically in water (i.e.

rafting). Other than knowing that the camera will survive hostile

environments my primary consideration is picture quality.

 

I have seen mention of a WR pentax, a few waterproof P&S camers, but

that's about it. They all seen to sacrifice image qualtiy. Any

suggestions?

I also wanted to know what the slowest shutter speed in P or A mode is. I love the way the fe2 can go up over 30 seconds.

I have a Fe2 and am looking for a cheap (about $100) backup body to

use with my AI/AIS lenses. I was considering a N2000 or N2020 since

they see to be undervalued now, and are apparently well built (I am

open to suggestions, although I at least need AP exposure). Can

someone answer the following questions for me:

 

1) Does the camera have mirror lockup when using the self timer

(like the fe2)

 

2) I am pretty sure the camera does not have DOF preview. Just want

to confirm this.

 

3) On the N2000 what is the lever immediatly to the right of the

lens?

 

4) How large is the camera (in relation to the fe2?

 

5) What are the differences between the n2000 and n2020(AF) other

than the AF. I am trying to figure if I should even bother with the

2020.

 

6) Do either of the cameras have interchangable focusing screens?

I think it depends on if you want the wide look. 24 is about as wide as you can go and still have some vestage of a normal perspective (although it;s not normal it's much easier to control). It is also wide enough for most situations. 20 is about where you start getting the wide look. I say get what you think fits.

A local dealer is selling two of these cameras and I wanted to know

what people thought about them. Specifically I am interested in how

their lenses compare to other leica fare (I know they will not be as

good since it is basically a rebadged Minolta but hey). I am asking

because I love the 40/80 combination for travel. Also what is the

shutter speed range?

 

Thanks~

Thank you for all the responces... I did not post any requirements other than pants pcketable simply because I wanted to leave the discusion open and posting all my personal requirements might risk dictating a certain camera. Now if I had to say what my dream camera features were they would be:

 

- Small

- Waterproof (or at least environmentally protected)

- 2.8 or faster sharp lens

- 35mm - 40mm lens

- Program and Apurature Priority mode (manual is not that important, and Program is usefu for those occations where other people need to use the camera)

- Self Timer or remote (to take pictures of me =)

- Some method of exposure compensation

- Shutter and Aperature visable in viewfinder (nice to have but I can live with just shutter)

- Some type of focus assistance

- Built in flash, with provisions for an external one

- Did I mention small?

 

Now from my understanding they do not make, nor have they ever made, this camera. If anyone knows otherwise please let me know. Until they do I need to compromise. My current best compromise is a Yashica T4. It is great except it is totally lacking in the protographer control department. I also have a Rollei 35S. It is also great, but it fails miserable in the spouse likes to take pictures but doesn't want to deal with it category (spouse has basic understanding of photography, but just doesn't want to deal with anything beyond Aperature Priority on a day to day basis).

I have been "into" photography for about two years. I have acquired

about 5 cameras in that time and a few lenses. I feel the effert was

worth it since it has moved me along the road of learning what

matters to me as a photographer, but I am now finding myself faced

with the sometimes daunting task of deciding which camera to take

with me. I have come to one general conclusion. I generally do not

go places with the express purpose of taking photographs. What I

need is one "go to" camera. A camera that is small enough that I know

I will take it with me without regards to where I might be going.

 

My question is, if you could only take one camera with you that you

could keep in your pants pocket unobtrusively all day what would it

be; and I mean only the camera, no camera cases (with the exception

of a form fitting case for protection), extra lenses, flashes,

filters, etc, ...

I take a slightly different view on this issue. I do not think the question should be the perfect camera vs. the perfect picture. I would assume that anyone partaking in any task would prefer to use the tools that best fit what they are trying to achieve. It's pretty obvious that MJ would not play basketball as well if he wore Sperry Topsiders on the court. The frustration I have is the desire to own the perfect camera (ie. a Leica M4 or M6) and the inability to even buy an old user camera & lens for less than I purchased my FE2 with 24/2.8 and 50/1.4 and Nikon flash and Rollei 35 and Rollei flash and Yashica 124G.

 

The root of my angst is the collectors who collect but never use. A 30 year old Leica that has never been taken out of it's original packing almost makes me cry. I do realize they have the right to collect what they want and despite my personal feelings, even if I could I would not take that right away from them. I just wish they would collect prints and let me buy my Leica =)

 

p.s. - Are their any inexpensive Leicas out there?

Leica needs to build a digital camera that has the following

 

- A real rangefinder since it would be manual focus

- Full size 35mm sensor (they would do well to dump the link with Panasonic and purchase Canon's 11mp sensor).

- Aperature priority and Manual exposure only

- TTL and TTL OTF flash

- Full compatability with Leica Bayonet monunt

- Firewire (&USB?) connectivity

- Compact Flash memory storage.

 

This would be a real Leica digital that they could justify charging $$$$ for.

Does anyone know how the tell the 12 lens element version of this

lens appart from the 15 lens element version?

I am looking for a small bounce flash for use with a FE2. I have

read good reviews of the SB-20 and SB-22 and am wondering if anyone

has any experience with these flashes. This will also be my only

flash for some time.

The web site for the camera show is http://www.cameraexpo.com/ If you are looking for good deals and selection this is it. Just shop carefully since alot of shop owners hawk stuff that will not sell at their shop here, and most take only cash. As a general expect to pay what a camera is worth, but nothing excessive.

 

As said before, "the used camera store" in costa mesa is a great place. Since they are small, at any given time they have a pretty limited Leica inventory, but the owner is a Leica collector so they might work with you (I have never tried, but I also have nothing to offer since I do not have enough money for Leica cameras). They tend to be a bit expensive (they buy stuff at about 60% of what they will eventually sell it at), but they are very reputable and fair.

 

Samy's Cameras in fairfax is in Los Angeles, and is a authorized Leica dealer. A bit of a drive but worth at least taking a look at. Not too sure about used stuff though.

 

Hope that helps.