jamiew

I feel like you are me in a way. I have a Yashica 124-g that I simply love. My other non-SLR cameras are a Canon G3, Yashica T4 and a Canon G-III QL-17. The G3 is my normal take anywhere camera but sometimes i need film. The Canon G-III is so much like my SLR system that I hardly use it but I keep it as it takes great B&Ws, but if I had to get rid of the Yahica T4 or the Canon G-III QL17 i'd stick with the Yahsica. Since they don't make it any more if the Yashica breaks I will get a Oly Stylus, and that's my advise to you.

 

Go for the stylus Epic. Small, little no learning curve, weather resistant, and small.

I am with everyone else, but for a more specific reason. I was in a similar situation with you when I got my Canon G3. I have a FE2 and since I got the G3 I hardly use it, but there are simply some things that a digicam like the G3 or 5400 simply can not do well (in my case telephoto was what I need). My plan is to get a DSLR and that will replace both the G3 and the FE2 (but i will still get a second film camera to back up the DSLR).

 

Well that's me, but I would advise at least giving the Canon 300D a look (unless you have the $$$ then go for a Nikon D100 or Canon 10D).

Responding to the comments on needing to get used to a waist level finder. Both the Rolleicord Vb (not Va) and Rolleiflex cameras have interchangeable finders. These include prism (or eye level) finders so it's not an issue. I even think the Mamiya might, but you should look into it first.

You'd be suprised how many P&S users have bought the Canon 10D simply because of it's low price point and being told how superior it is to their P&S digicams (this will probably migrate to the digital rebel now). I for one think what Canon has done is great since it will keep the complaints down, but still gives the people in the know the option.

I am sure hundreds of people will disagree with me, but I think the weight of the mamiya TLR is too excessive for hiking (I really like light weight). I use a yashica 124 TLR and it is great. I have looked into updating it to a Rolleiflex. IF your need for two lenses is critical then go for a small MF SLR with two lenses. Suppliment this with a good P&S 35mm, and your set.

Since I am the one that advised him to "get faster film" I will respond to everyone's comments.

 

KL said he is considering the Noctilux for "general usage". I take that to mean more than just low light photography. My advise is, given it's general usage, he would be better off saving a huge sum of money and getting the 1.4 or even the 2.0. Much cheaper and lighter and perhapse better stopped down. All this and they still are good for low light with faster film. Of course a Not with the same fast film will work in lower light, but that's not the point. The point is general usage.

I for one love that I received my negetives. Saved at least 1,000 -2000 dollars by not having him do anything more than proof prints (4x6). Then again I know how to take care of the negetives so I specifically asked for this.

I agree.. save yourself $1,000 - 2,000 dollars and get the 1.4 or 2.0. Both will takes beter pictures in almost all cirvumstances. If you need the speed go for faster film. I can;t see the need for a 1.0 lens anymore.

Here is something to think about. While all film cameras suffer price drops for digital cameras (including Leicas), once leica comes out with a suitable digital alternative to the M you can expect huge price drops for all non-colector (user) film Leicas. That being because most people who actually shot leica will move on to the Digital (with a film backup), and most colectors like mint cameras and are not that fond of users.

Here is my advice for what it's worth.

 

DO NOT MAJOR IN PHOTOGRAPHY!

 

Goto the best 4 year university in either NYC or SF or LA or Chicago (or another giant city) you can get into. If they have a good sports tradition then better yet. Get a job (or volunteer) at the school paper so you can get a press pass, and therefore into all the university (and area) events. Take photography classes and get to know the faculity in that department Possibly even minor in art or photography or something. Use your contacts (and experience) to get an internship in the area. These major metropolitian places should have lots to choose from but they may pay squat. Whatever the case at this point in your career follow the best opportunity and not the money. Things will either happen or not, but at least you will have a degree in a different field to fall back on if they dont. Also if you choose your degree well you might be able to find a photography angle in it.

 

If a major school is not for you then go solely with the internship/apprentce route in a big city. Do not waste your time in any 4 year or 2 year program. Take lots of photography courses, find a cheap source for film and a good darkroom (or go digital). Shot till your fingers hurt.

 

If I had to give advice where to inter, I would first say get a job in a good photo lab doing printing. YOu will learn and learn and learn. Try to understand digital color printing/workflow and traditional B&W printing since color negetive and slide are on their way out (no matter what you read, it's true - Digital cameras are gonna be amazing in a few years). B&W will stick around for the art.

 

Good luck

 

Good luck.

I am sure that pentax has long exposures to 5 minutes, but I would be suprised if it metered to 5 minutes. My advice if you want super long exposures is to forget auto exposure (I too have an FE and it can't meter to 5 minutes well). If you want small and you will dedicate it to this function a Rollei 35S is great.

Depends on your budget and the focal length you are looking for, but all of these cameras are fantastic:

 

Best Really Cheap camera - Olympus stylus - totally automatic - very small - 35mm f/2.8 lens ($79 bhphoto.com)

 

Best Deal - Rollei 35 AFM - some optional overrides for creative photography - 40mm f/2.6 lens ($299 bhphoto.com)

 

Best compact with wide angle - Ricoh Gr1 - same setting as Rollei - very small - 28mm f/2.8 lens (about $400-500 bhphoto.com)

 

Good and expensive - Leica CM - fast 40mm f/2.4 (800-1000)

 

Good and expensive - Contax T3 - 35mm f/2.8 ($700)

 

I am sure that is not all but it about sums it up

Does anyone have any information on when Canon will update the 50

f2.5 macro lens to USM. While 1:1 would be great I wouldn;t want to

sacrifice lens size and filter size for this as it will be my main

day to day lens, and I am going macro more for the lack of

distortion, and versatility vs. 50/1.8 or 50/1.4). USM however is

very important to me.

Don't worry about the loss of a stop since digital makes it so easy to bump the ISO

Look at the 24-70 2.8L. Perfect complement for the 70-200 f4L. Akso you could use the speed since you gave up the 50/1.4

People are so helpful here. Under the learn section there is a section entitled Macro. It's worth reading. here is macro in a nutshell.

 

There are three numbers that matter the most in macro. Aperature (controls your Depth of Field), reproduction ration (1:1 is life), and focal length (the longer the focal length - i.e. bigger the number - the further away from your subject you can take a picture at 1:1).

 

Dedicated macro lenses for SLR's are also expensive. While there are other ways to go, this in my mind is the only way since it is easy. Whatever the case it's a whole new world.

On a backpacking trip the idea is to go with the expectation that you will always have everything with you at all times. I realize that this is not going to be true 100% but you need to have that expectation since it will be true more often thatn you think. That means less camera gear. Realizing this, here is my advise.

Identify what you actually need MF for. It will be one of two things. Either you want big enlargements, or you just love the system and always use it.

 

If you are just going after big enlargements then go for one lens with no backups (you can find anything you need in Europe). I would even reccomend an old TLR and small handheld meter if you have time to practice before your trip. the 6x6 negetive is bigger for enlarging or for cropping you get two pictures in one (vertical and horizontal compositions). They are also light VERY cheap and you will not feel so bad if they get stolen. in addition to this take a rangefinder with two lenses or a SLR with one fast zoom (like Canon 24-70/2.8L). Only consider a lens longer than 100 if you really know you need zoom.

 

If the mamiya is your normal camera system then I would reccomend you take what you you listed (consider dumping the huge fisheye though), and a small P&S type camera.

 

My personal setup is a yashica TLR or Nikon SLR, and a Canon G3. I plan to move to yashica TLR and DSLR once I get one. I only take the Yashica if I think I need enlargements. I do not normally take the Bogen on long trips/flights. Instead I use a good table top tripod. I have even found with the low vibration of the TLR and day light, I get sharp pictures hand held.

 

Now for the trip you are mentioning my ideal set would be two Leica (Bessa) rangefinders with a 15 or 21, fast 50 and a 90. Add to that a solid table top tripod and you are set (I would forgo digital because it's a pain to worry about batteries/memory when backpacking).

 

Whatever the case figure you will use one lens about 80% of the time, and carry the other lenses 100% of the time.

I have the 200 f/4. I bought it since I needed the smallest lightest kit for a trip to Alaska (also has a built in hood and takes the same 52mm filters as the rest of my Nikon Kit so didn;t have to bring extras for one lens). Also since I only expected to use the 200 in daylight I didn't care about it's aperature (which is not as bad as some people lead you on to beleive - Just one stop slower than the heavier, bigger, and better 180 ED f/2.8). Here is it's one limitation. Since it is such a small light lens, you will find yourself using it hand held much more often than with other telephotos. Because of the focal length, if it is not daylight, you might not have enough light to keep your shutter speeds up in the 1/200 range they need to be. Again this is not an issue in daylight (nore was it in cloudy Alaska), but if you are at the edge the extra stop of the 180 can be helpful (or a tripod, but if you can stomach the weight of a tripod then weight probably is not as big of an issue).

 

Regarding which lens to get I really think you area asking the wrong question. It should be the 105 vs. the 75-150 + a 200. The 105 and 75-150 are so close in focal length that you will find yourself using one almost 100% of the time. If you already have the 105 f/2.5 I think the 75-150 is a waste, especially since the 105 is such a great lens.

 

Did I forget to mention that the 200 f/4 AI lens is dirt cheap because of people like the ones saying it is useless in this thread

 

Thanks =)

Don't get a leica Digilux 1. Look at this, probably comming out next year:

 

http://pc.watch.impress.co.jp/docs/2003/1002/pana2.htm

I dont't knwo which camera is for you, but I do have some advise. Digital cameras are different than film cameras (especially those of the digicam variety. i.e. not SLR). While you will see the difference between a terrible lens and a good lens, you will see little difference between a good lens and a great lens because of the limitations of the sensor, and it all digicam sensor's of the same resolution are essentially the same. What all this means is that (at least for now) spending the extra money on a Contax because it's name doesn't get you much more than a big head. There are cameras that are faster and those that are slower. Also there isn't that big a difference between 4mp and 5mp.

 

Considering that the state of the art changes every couple months (and that's a slow month) you are better off going to a site like DPReview.com and reading for yourself.

Focus the lens at infinity on a distant building or mountain, etc..

 

Make sure it's outline is clear against the sky and it is far away.

Here is a list of cameras to consider:

 

F3

F4

FM/FM2/FM2(n)

FE/FE2 - FE2 is my personal favorite

n2000/n2020

 

Read about each at:

http://mir.com.my/rb/photography/hardwares/classics/

I have decided to take the plung and get a DSLR (not sure which

one). I also plan to get one cheapo film body to use as a backup

that can share lenses with the DSLR.

 

Here is my question. I would like one film camera to supplement

this DSLR/Film SLR combo. I do not care if it uses batteries or

non, but it has to have the following features:

 

35mm film only

I dont care if it has auto exposure/ Aperatur P/ Shutter P, but if

so it has to have exposure lock capability.

Fast lens (2.8 or better minimum)

ISO range broad enough to use slow slide film to very fast B&W (1600-

3200 preferrably). DX is ok but have to be able to override.

Not too big (actually the smaller the better)

A focus aid (I have a Rollei 35 and while the prefect camera in all

other respects, guess focusing in avaliable light sucks).

Compatable with IR film

 

Oh yeah.. I love the idea of a leica, but way too much money. This

needs to be cheap. I have a Canon GIII QL17 and I love it but max

ISO 800 and no AP or meter in manual suck.

Ray,

 

I mentioned it. Read my post =)

I agree the Bogen 3001. Just nake sure you get either the Pro of the D model as the leg locks are better (new one shave snap locks, and old ones have twist locks).

 

As for a head I got a Giotto MH-1001 ball head. Not the best, but works well and is within your price range.