yeux tortu

When I shot a D70 I found the 85 1.8 to give the best AF indoor sports performance. Only the rear elements move to focus and is much faster than the 80-200 which requires a large lens group to be moved by essentially a screwdriver. But the 80-200 2.8 ED is optically the best zoom lens I have ever shot, giving it up was my biggest regret moving to EOS.

 

The new lens you cite looks like a great lens but will be too slow indoors.

"It's a Nikon thing as opposed to a Canon thing....."

 

True, with Canon you can use almost any lens, even Nikkors.

Actually the Magna Carta was a granting of rights from the sovereign to the people.

 

We are deluded into thinking that we live in a world based on John Locke ideals, but in fact we are in a world as understood by Thomas Hobbes.

"It appears that Nikon has a reputation for not making any really crappy lenses."

 

Find a Nikkor AF 24-120/3,5-5,6D IF and see if that is true.

"Except full-aperture metering and automatic diaphragm control."

 

Not sure what full aperture metering means; matrix, spot and center weighted metering works on my 20D.

 

You got me on the automatic diaphragm control; I didn't realize the D200 did this. I shoot manual and AV about 99% of time even with my Canon glass. I love the clicks of stopping down a mechanical aperture ring, why I didn't like the G glass trend of Nikon and why I love my AIS glass.

Why wait for D200.

 

Buy a digital rebel and a Nikon to EOS adaptor. Also invest in a Hoada aftermarket focusing screen. Total cost for a refurbished/used unit and the focusing screen and adaptor $600.00. You get all the AI functionality for a lot less money.

 

Then buy a Leitz to EOS, and a Zeiss to EOS adaptor and see what the real lens snobs are bragging about.

 

I love my AIS NIKKORS, but I love the flexibilty of the EOS mount. How else can you shoot NIKKORS, Leitz, Zeiss and Canon glass on one body. My ultimate sharp/low weight travel kit is a Nikkor 20 4.0, Planar 1.7, and Sonnar 85 2.8.

 

If you want to step completely into the dark side, throw on a piece of USM glass and see what fast and accurate autofocus will do.

It really does work.

 

I use Leitz, Zeiss, and Nikkor lenses on 20D.

 

Why use another lens other than Canon, no lens maker has the best lenses at all focal lenses. Other lenses may offer different qualities which Canon lenses may not offer.

Wow, I haven't had this much fun since reading Ken Rockwell's rantings about plastic Nikkors.

 

Jayesh, don't be sorry about this post, as a Canon/Nikon user I have noticed similar things also. especially the lens caps and power button. Obviously preferences,but these things can be a pain.

 

The D200 does look like a serious challenge to D20 if Nikon has figured out how to match high ISO performance.

Focus confirmation NO

 

AV priority camera will select shutter speed, but some lenses at some appertures will be off by .3 EV. No big deal.

 

Love my AIS 105 1.8 and 180 2.8 ED on EOS. Get alot of funny looks.

 

Would suggest Hoada focusing screen to assist focusing if you use D rebel or 20D.

I am very happy using my 180 2.8 ED ais on Canon EOS mount. Also use Leitz and Zeiss. L glass is over rated and I prefer ED Nikkors and Leitz for saturation and contrast. Just wish Nikon made better digital bodies.

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White pixels are dead pixels. They remap them under a certain threshold number. Usually they are dead period, and occur in the same x,y coordinates for your images. A bummer, hopefully not a recurrent problem as I had to have my sensor on 20d remapped.

"If the lenses already perform for film bodies, why do people worry about performance on digital?"

 

Probably the concern is going from 1.6 crop on aps sized sensors to full sized sensor on 5D. Wideangles (which generally/inherently have edge performance drop off) have theoretically performed better on the smaller sensors since the sensor crops out the edges. Off course the cropping has reduced the field of view or "wideness" of the lens. Full sized sensors gives back the field of view wideness but many speculated at the expense of edge performance.

With subjects who have blemishes I prefer my Nikkor AI 50 1.2 @ 1,2, I get a soft look without trying. If I want to upset them I use my Planar 50mm @ 8.

The D means that the lens will tell your D70 the distance of the subject to the focal plane of the sensor, which in turn improves your exposure metering ("3D matrix metering")according to Nikon marketing.

 

It should be okay for your needs, for best results, in my experience, stay away from 300mm and stop down to F8. Google "Thom Hogan" and "Ken Rockwell" for two opposite opinions about this lens.

Just remember when you are buying your Nikkors that the DX format will not work well with film cameras or full frame DSLRS of the (not too distant) future.

I have previously owned an even older version, non ED push pull version, and when I sold it it was still mechanically perfect. This lens is built like a tank and, unless abused, will have many decades of useful life left in it.

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Love my Leica glass. Love to MF. Love that my EOS accepts adaptor to use Leica glass and MF.

 

Has Leica developed an adaptor to use my (fast and accurate) AF USM lenses?

18-70 ED DX for sure. I am not a lens snob, I own 2 Tamrons, but the 18 -70 is an exceptional value for optical quality.

Focusing screen by Hoada works well on 20D. At the risk of sounding like a commercial, best $75 spent on my 20D.

 

This screen, Nikkor 50 1.2 AI, and low noise 20D cmos = ultimate "affordable" low light set up.

Safe bet;

 

Tamron 28-75/f2.8 XR Di

 

then

 

Canon EF 70-200 f4.0 USM