yeux tortu
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Posts posted by yeux tortu
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Fast wide angle with no coma= 28 1.4 Afd, but like I asked, do you have about 3 grand for this lens? Google it, it isconsidered well designed for astro shots.
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28mm- Do you have 3 grand to spend? Uber costs..............
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Great venue,
Sunrise or sunset from cadillac mountain summit is always interesting, see my single photos for a fogged in view from summit.You drive your car to the summit. There is also a pretty little foot bridge in Somesville which is very often photographed.
Probably the best light for late afternoon would be on the western side of Mt Dessert Island, head off rte 3 towards Southwest harbor continue south and then west around that part of the Island. There are rocky coast views, a nice walking path and a light house on that side of the island which is not as busy as Bar Harbor side of Acadia.
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The 28 200 G version has a plastic mount also, weighs about the same and has held up very well over time
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17 - 35 2.8 AFS
70 - 200 2.8 AFS
28 1.4 AFD
85 1.4 AFD
50 1.8 series E, I can't afford the AFD
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35 2.0 afd. 1 stop slower than 50 1.4 but better iq wide open and friendlier dof. You can almost make up the 1 stop by slower shutter speed and you will get more keepers.
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AF D 35 2.0, light, sharper and faster than the lenses you mention and about the same price.
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Nice work. Definately sellable.
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Your series of sounds on the mp3, the third and last sequences sound like my 85 1.4 hunting/fine focusing. The other series of examples do not. Frankly it sounded more like a shutter release than the screwdrive. The sound seems to unwind as opposed to abrupt cessation as focus locks on.
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35-70 2.8 AF D
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Looks like photozone MTF ratings.
I think they do a good job but they test a limited amount of samples. Directionally the results are right, but degree of difference is probably not as precise as the numbers would seem to indicate. Their quantitative rating of the Nikkor 85 1.4 and 70-200 2.8 is probably inconsistent with my field impressions (I think they are sharper than measured). But perhaps the mythical status of these lenses clouds my perception of results.Or maybe I have better samples than the loaners which they tested.
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With D200 all AI and AIS lenses will work well. As far as CA. if you shoot twigs backlit against bright sky, and look at 100% crops on monitor, then you will be less happy with digital. Some lenses such as the 17-55 handle ca very well, but your longer non dx telephoto lenses are not as good. The 80-200 2.8 ED comes to mind.
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Consider the 35 2.0 AFD. It has more contrast wide open and sharp but not quite as sharp over f4. But for speed you get good results wide open and the ability to shoot at 1/30s if you have static subject and steady hands. I find the 50 1.8 to suffer loss of contrast wide open and needing 2.8 to match the 35 2.0.
You can pick up a used one for 200 from KEH in BGN condition. Worth the 100% premium over the 50 1.8 in my opinion. I would not say the same for the 50 1.4
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As stated, you cannot reverse the oversharpenning artifacts on Jpegs coming out of the camera. Do it on the computer. In my experience, the risk of oversharpening is increased with sharper glass and better technique.
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Well I guess I am the minority view and would suggest the 17-55 is worth the sacrifice for photographing people, especially young children. There is a reason event photographers use this lens.
Is the quality worth it for family snaps, only you can answer this. The 18-70 is not nearly as sharp and it is a little slow for where you generally find people, indoors. If the lenses you own are sitting on a shelf most of the time then I would sell them. The 17-55 will not sit on the shelf.
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Try KEH. Their ratings are very conservative. A bargain (bgn) rating is usually as good as most people's excellent on Ebay. I have bought 8 (6 ai/ais)used lens from them and never was disappointed.
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I have lost a microdrive, too fragile. I also prefer to use multiple 1gb cards in case of CF card failure. Lost a CF card also, crapped out in my card reader after downloading pixs. Prefer to put only a percentage of my shoot at risk at any time.
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35-70 2.8 af-d and bump up the iso on your d50, it can handle it.
Great lens, great wide open at 2.8, 1 stop slower than 35 2.0, but the little extra reach and zoom is worth it for flexible composition. Also extra depth of field will be helpful for events.
Buy a 50 1.8 for low light, cheaper than the 35 so you can stay in your budget for the zoom. Or go to KEH and you could buy used both the 35 prime and zoom for your budget.
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IS will not freeze action of moving subjects. if you shoot more static subjects in addition to sports than I definately would go for it.
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I have used aftermarket focusing screens for my D200 and 20D. I love old AIS
glass and these screens are invaluable for assisting MF focus.
I have sold my xx - 5.6 apperture consumer zooms and am using the 2.8 70-200
and 17-50 for autofocus. I was quite disappointed with the 70 to 200 as it
appeared soft despite its reputation for sharpness. But what appeared to be
softness was in fact autofocus error. The backfocus did not seem to be a
problem before the 2.8 glass due to deeper DOF at longer focal length at 5.6
with my consumer zooms. I had noticed some bad shots with the 17 - 55 but
these focal lengths tend to be more foregiving even wide open. I was about to
send the lens in for calibration with my body but decided to put the original
focus screen in and autofocus error seems to be cured.
Anyone else experience any affect on autofocus by use of aftermarket focus
screens? I am trying to decide if I should get another screen in case I have a
bad sample but if this is a common problem than I am less likely to do so. It
appears the Nikon screen is bright enough to MF but obviously not as well as
as a split screen focus aid.
Are great shots possible using AUTO
in Nikon
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Yes, as long as you place it in park or utilize the active vr mode while you are moving.
Seriously, there are great photos made with point and shoot cameras (ultimate auto- and BTW the favorite insult of "serious photographers")