paulr

<p>Ive been looking for several months. What I ended up doing is using 3x3 filters resting just above the condenser. It does mean removing the top but its the best way I could find to use filters. </p>

<p>Suggest also to contact University Products or Light Impressions with your question. They are two key suppliers of archival products to protect film and negatives. </p>

<p>Interesting article from NYT: http://www.nytimes.com/2008/01/27/arts/design/27kenn.html?pagewanted=all&_r=0</p>

<p>The large image circle of the 24mm PC lens as Scott pointed out is the way to go if you do not want to correct the fall off in Photoshop. When I used to photograph with large format cameras my lens choices were based on the image circle or the area the lens covers on the film. Check out Ansel Adams work and the lenses he used as a guide. His book "Examples" show some of the lenses he used. If I had one choice of a lens for the D800 and landscape work I would choose the 24mm PC.<br>

http://www.dykinga.com/Gear.html Jacks lens choices will be of some help too. He worked with large format for many years. Notice he uses the PC lenses with the D3.</p>

 

<p>Leica tried the same thing several years ago. Didn't fly with customers and Leica reversed their decision. Things have changed over the past several years. The cameras back then were mostly the Leica film cameras with mechanical parts. <br>

Are independents outside of the manufacture capable of repairing a digital camera? I don't know....</p>

<p>Shoe bomber: Everyone has to take their shoes off at TSA checkpoints<br>

Latest NYC Pakistani Taliban: CNN reports he didn't like sunlight. <br>

Show me any report that links the use of a camera to a terrorist plot. Or, anyone that was stopped that had a camera that had ties with some extremist group. Any........<br>

<br /><br>

<br /></p>

<p>Hahhaahaa. Amen Manuel. They're a bunch of pencil necked bureaucrats behaving just like they did no so long ago concerning photography in the subways of NYC. Have you ever met a parking attendant or meter maid that gave a crap? Whats a male meter maid called. A meter butler? <br>

I'm an olive skinned Greek. Think I'll get a good tan, wear one of those keffiyeh's, and a few cameras around my neck. I wouldn't worry about it. </p>

<p>Hope this helps:</p>

<p>http://www.freestylephoto.biz/14274518-Fujifilm-Quickload-Holder-for-4x5-Quickload-films</p>

<p>http://www.bjp-online.com/public/showPage.html?page=837566<br>

Size and build seems good. Wonder what the price will be and where it will be sold.</p>

<p> </p>

I did the same thing with my 35mm 4-5 years ago. Focusing was stiff so John at Focal Point Lens in Colorado machined it and it

worked just fine. $195 buck repair though.

 

 

Paul

Sarah's Obituary. There are many that knew her personally. No doubt she was a fine person!

 

http://www.legacy.com/Obituaries.asp?Page=LifeStory&PersonId=106690776

 

I hope the family can endure these difficult times knowing how well Sarah was liked by the

photography community.

http://www.geocities.com/ruckypuck/

I have used Leicas M's and Nikon SLR's for many years. Like the M's for projects and

documentary work. Weight is great for travel. Few bodies and 3-4 lenses are easy to carry.

I guess its a matter of practice and preference. Focusing and metering are a snap with the

Leica M6 and M7.

 

I suppose if your're photographing sports or something a rangefinder would really suck.

 

Does everyone get sharp pictures in the areas intended with autofocus? Dunno, not me.

Maybe with all this new gillion point autofocusing one might.

 

I know exactly what I am getting with manual focus. I can back focus or front focus at will.

Never heard of "your lens is backfocusing" better have it checked with a manual focus

camera.

 

Try working without a meter. You'll surprise yourself how easy it is to master most

lighting conditions without a meter. You can fool a meter but not your eye.

 

I use the Nikon D2 occasionally. Fab has it right. That 50 f/1.2 is wonderful on the DSLR's.

Vuescan, hands down. The rest are way too complicated and time consuming.

 

http://www.hamrick.com/

Pep Bonet

 

http://www.fonart.com/net/posithiv/eng/index.htm

Try either of these two:

 

http://www.pcraft.com/table_of_contents.html

 

Or

 

http://www.dwaynesphoto.com/

 

I send Kodachrome to Dwaynes and they do exceptional work. Also I have noticed Fuji

mailers are being sent to Dwaynes. For E6 B&H in NYC has Fuji mailers for about five

bucks. Not bad for E6 these days.

 

I've used WalMart for C41. I know..............but the work was ok. Heard of others using

Walgreens with satisfaction. Try a few rolls and see what happens.

In "Photos 1" I'd say it looks close to Astia or Provia. Could be print film though. Not much

help as now I'm just guessing.

Theres this too. Probably not a great deal of contributors in this day and age, but it might be

good to combine it.

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/forum?topic_id=1542

<a href="http://www.digitaljournalist.org/issue0709/camera-corner-the-leica-m8-on-

assignment.html">Bruno Stevens</a> has worked extensively with the M8. Also check out

his photos on Digital Railroad as referenced in the article. His photos in Iran were shot with

the M8.

http://www.focalpointlens.com/fp_intro.html

 

I've used John on some of my Leica M lenses and am very pleased. Give him a call, he's very

helpful.

Post this too over on Lightstalkers under "upcoming events"

 

Thanks for the information. If I'm down in LA I will stop in.

 

Best wishes

Paul

Marcus Bleasdale Exhibit opening in Los Angeles <a href="http://www.hrwcalifornia.org/south/events/

congo/CongoGoldEviteEXHIBIT.html" >Hidden Face of Gold/Democratic Republic of Congo</a>

John.......400 rolls? Oahhaaahaa. I thought I had problems.

Tri-x and Plus-x

 

Freeze thaw, thaw freeze. Developed, undeveloped. I've done it all. No ill effects that I can

recall.

 

Um, that sort of rhymes.

I looked at David Beckermans web site. Great work. You'll notice he's back to shooting

film according to his web site, Tri-x using HC-110. My choice would be Tri-x in D-76.

Tri-x can be used from 200 on up. I'd experiment with exposure developing times to get

the "mood" you are looking for.

 

I'm far from an expert on Neopan films but have found them to be sort of flat lacking the

contrast that Tri-x and let say Plus-x have.

 

The reason I like the one film one developer approach is it allows one to become familiar

with the peculiarities of a single developer and film.

 

Vuescan software allows you to play with the contrast and other parameters when

scanning.

 

Project sounds challenging and great fun.