oliver_tan1

Color negatives are pretty fun to scan. And you thought you saw everything in the prints. Think again. Slides are not bad too. The only gripe I have is scanning B&W negatives. Especially Fuji Neopan Acros 100. Other than that, everything's smooth for me. Oh and my Minolta software works just fine.

Samy's is a great place to start. You can also try Canoga Camera (www.canogacamera.com). Enjoy the your trip. I was just there mid june to first of august. Not a good time to visit because it's hurricanes and typhoons but I sure had lots of fun.

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1770886&size=md"></img></center>

<center>N80 with 24-85mm 3.5-4.5G AFS-IF ED on Kodak E100VS</center>

With the F65, you can actually "set" your ISO by using the EV feature of the camera. For example, using a 400 ISO film, set your EV to -2, this means that you are actually shooting your film at E.I. 1600. At EV +2, it will be E.I. 100.

 

Correct me if I'm wrong on the numbers.

You may wanna try Fuji's Neopan Acros 100 @ E.I. 80. Sharp and lots of tonal range.

Try enlarging to 16x20. This film is just amazing.

Remember there is the 24-85mm 3.5-4.5 AFS and the 24-85mm 2.8-4 lens. I have the 24-85mm 3.5-4.5 lens and it is a good investment if you DON'T shoot architecture. If you need the extra zoom, then go with the 28-105mm. It is not as sharp as the 24-85mm 3.5-4.5 but it has less distortion on both ends. Go to a store and ask if you can see both of the lenses on the N80.

I must also say that IR film is grainy but it smooths or hides "wrinkles" or pores your subject may have. IR film is not only used for landscape photos but also for portraits. It is hard to use IR film because of the fast that you have to load and unload the film in total darkness. You also need to adjust for the IR focus point. Here's an example:

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1483466&size=md"></img></center>

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1483466&size=md"></img></center> <center> o_o </center>

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1184700&size=md"></img></center>

<center> An eagle eating rat intestines </center>

If you want really weird colors, try Agfa Ultra 100 @ EI1600 and developed 5 stops over. Just make sure you don't have people in your picture or you'll be sorry.

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1266490&size=md"></img></center>

<center> "we'll be swimming in your blood soon" </center>

Use your exposure compensation button. But it only works on either aperture priority or shutter priority. For an ISO 400 ISO film, a -2.0 compensation is E.I. 1600. +2.0 compensation will give you E.I. 100. Can someone correct me if I'm wrong.

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1491425&size=md"></img></center>

<center>not so serious</center>

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1483466&size=md"></img></center>

<center>sErIoUs</center>

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1483466&size=md"></img></center>

<center>Scary SARS head</center>

You may also want to look at the nikon fm3a. I have the n80 for a lil more than 6 months now and I do like using it a lot but I'm one of those people who like to twist knobs so I bought myself a used (almost mint condition fe2).

See the word that says: THE ABOVE TEXT IS: [Plain Text v]?

It should say: THE ABOVE TEXT IS:

 

Love the fisheye.

Funny how some schools let you do almost exactly the same thing. My class just finished doing that project. NEW Tri X 400 pushed to 1600 developed with STRAIGHT D76 for 13 min at 68 degrees will result in some kind of foggy film but is normal. I presoaked with water for 1 min., developed for 13, stop bath for 30 secs, fixer for 5 min and washed 10 mins. It'll be grainy but you can shoot at low light so I suggest shooting a bar, nightclub, etc scene.

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1405688&size=md"></center> <center> field </center>

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1405693&size=md"></center>

<center> poppy girl </center>

 

Lots of people. I was there 3-23-03 and the wind was blowing but not as hard. Probably around 20-35 mph. I heard the best time to come is somewhere 2nd week of April. We had lots of rain this season which makes it more interesting. If you're shooting Velvia 50, you're probably going to be using about 1/60th to 1/90th shutter speed @ f8-13.

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1386332&size=md"></center> <center>a precious 3 secs of myself</center>

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1405693&size=md"></center> <center>California Poppy Flower</center>

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1386332&size=md"></center>

Kodak Tech Pan 25 @ E.I. 125. Develop with D76 straight. It is a high contrast film. I'd recommend not shooting in direct sunlight. And it is a very fine grain film even with me shooting at E.I. 125 and printing it with 11 x 14 paper. I was having a hard time looking for grain. >=|

<center><img src="http://www.photo.net/photodb/image-display?photo_id=1386332&size=md"?></center> <center>3 secs of my life</center>

Did any of you guys noticed how the film looks "fogged" after developing?