oliver_tan1
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Posts posted by oliver_tan1
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www.FreestylePhoto.biz
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Rollei IR will only show the "real" IR effect with an 87 or 89 filter. Expect your exposure time to be at least 2 minutes. The R72 filter will work but not as good as the 87 and 89.
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Arista II = Agfa APX
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Freestyle sells 4x6 black bags. That's another option. I use two black 4x6 black bags without any problems. 4x6 black bag = .25cents.
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Rollei IR400 120mm from Freestyle. Count the clicks to get to the next frame with a regular film. Tape your holga as much as possible (that's not new).
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Difference between steel and plastic reels? I find it so much easier to use the plastic reels. I hear so many complains about students having a hard time loading with the steel reels and also having their film get stuck to each other. If the instructor doesn't require you to use steel reels, use the plastic ones. Insert and twist. Voila!
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I was just at the Racetrack Playa April 16th and noticed that some of the rocks were missing and there were lots of footprints. To think that 2-3 hours of driving in a washboard dirt road would deter people! On the other hand, maybe some people use it to anchor themselves when the wind gusts reach 30mph.
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You might also want to go to a studio/photo store and ask the photographer if he/she knows of a place that will develop b&w film.
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I've used both the D50 and the D70s and I would suggest getting the D70s. When a friend and I went to the dunes, I forgot to use my medium format and film camera altogether. I pretty much use the D70s for color and the film for B&W. And I also have the 24-85 3.5-4.5G AF-S lens. Although, I do miss the 24 on the digital, I can always pull back a little bit or just be creative with what I've got.
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Here's what I got from my Zone System class: Fuji Acros 100 at E.I. 80, develop in Agfa Rodinal 1:50 @ 68F for 11min. 1 min pre-soak, 11min with 3 slight agitations, 30 secs stop and 5 minute fix.
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Was just doing some VanDyke prints earlier. Any paper will do as long as it's archival (if you want it to last a long time). It's how you want the image to project. Rougher surface - less detail, smoother surface - more detail. Play around with different types of paper. I sometimes coat brown paper bags or newspaper (not archival).
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dektol 1:5 - 1:9
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Film testing for my Zone Systems class came out to 11min with 3 slight agitations every minute at 68F. Acros at E.I. 80 with Agfa Rodinal 1:50.
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There is actually a "metallic" paper for printers but it literally means metallic. It is manufactured by Red River Paper. It is nothing like RA-4 paper. I think it's just a cheap imitation that fails to compare with the kodak endura metallic paper.
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Speaking of Red River papers, has anyone tried their metallic papers?
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I rate a 100 ISO transparencies at E.I. 50 and then process normal. I normally shoot Kodak E100VS, Agfa RSX II 50 and Fuji Velvia 50 (for studio). I've always find that shooting at the exact ISO will blow out the high values. Try experimenting. 1 stop over, 1 stop under, one normal.
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Fuji Neopan Acros 100.
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Anyone know anything about the AlienBees B400 ($225 msrp), B800 ($280) and B1600 ($360)?
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Try Kodak Plus X 125 and developed with D76 1:1 for 20 minutes. They call it "developing to infinity." I call it amazing outcome.
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Are we supposed to buy a NEW DSLR camera EVERY year? Why not buy a DSLR that caters to your needs and use it until you need something better? This is like film and digital all over again. Oh, did anybody mention that it's not all about the equipment but the "thingy" behind the equipment?
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California College of Arts. Formerly known as Prince, NO, California College of Arts and Crafts.
How do I modify my DIY Holgaroid to produce a full frame?
in Extreme, Retro, Instant and More
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