rudymerz

hey Rudy - checked the system and your membership expires sometime in 2100+ - please send me a DM through the forums if you see something different!

Hello,

I have been very busy the last few years and had not much time for photography. I recently came back to photo.net to update my password and to see what is going on. And to my surprise I find that my Membership is still not upgraded to Premium. Is there some technical reason for that?

Thanks for your help.

Best,

Rudy

Hi,

I have a Lifetime subscription for photo.net.

As a lifetime member I think I am entitled to an automatic upgrade to premium membership.

Please advice.

Thanks

<blockquote>

<p>Scanning: Been there; done that; sold the tee-shirt. Really, what's the point of shooting film to just end up with a digital file?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Joe, that is exactly the problem. IMHO the photographic process is not finished with a digital file. A digital file is just an intermediate step. Photographing - Developing - Scanning - <strong>Printing</strong>. A lot of people I know don't do the printing anymore. They put it on the social sites and that's it. I print my photos and I love it. <strong><br /></strong></p>

<p>I am finally back to MF. Got myself a 503CX w/ 80mm and some darkroom equipment. Unfortunately I don't have the space for printing, yet.;) This was scanned with a Epson V750 and VueScan.</p>

<p>Hippeastrum<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18223850-md.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Hasselblad 503CX, CF 80mm, TMAX 400 @ 200, TMAX Developer</p>

<p> </p>

<img src="http://www.avianart.com/photographes/sets/bw-art/BW_ART_012-Edit.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="538" />

<strong>M8 - Elmar-M 24mm f/3.8 ASPH</strong>

<p><img src="http://www.avianart.com/photographes/impressions/GER_DENSBERG_016.jpg" alt="" width="538" height="800" /><br>

M8 - APO-Summicron-M 90mm f/2 ASPH</p>

<p>Try Speedway Custom Photo in Daytona. <br>

http://www.speedwaycustomphoto.com/</p>

<p>Lex,</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Kodak may recommend T-Max developer for T-Max films, or merely provide data for that combination, but there's no need to stick with that combination.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I agree, there is no need to stick with <strong>any</strong> combination. <br>

It all depends on what one want's to archive in their photography.</p>

<p>

<p>Btw, I got excellent results with T-MAX/TMY-2.;) </p>

<br>

Rudy</p>

<blockquote>

<p>The most I will lose is $900. How much have M8 owners lost?</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Nothing. As long as they don't sell it.;)</p>

Lex,

I am skeptical too. I am using JOBO plastic reels and until a few month ago I used photo flo. There are always black stains

building up over time. I stopped using photo flo because I did not needed since I use distilled water only. But the dark

stains are still coming back. I use Ilford chemicals (DD-X/Rapid Fix). At least I did find a solution to get easily rid of the

stains. I just put the reels in hot water with 'Jobo Processor Clean II' over night and they are clean as a whistle.

Rudy

I have 2 M6 TTL's .85 (272xxxx, 247xxxx) and IMO they both have a better flare reduction than my M6 Classic, I had

before. With the M6 Classic the patch was white when it flared, with the M6 TTL I still can see through the patch and use it

to focus. Not as good as the MP though. But it doesn't bother me anymore.

Antonio,<p>

go here <a href="http://www.barrythornton.com/">http://www.barrythornton.com</a> and

read 'Personal Film Speed' and 'Personal Dev' Time'. After reading this you should be all set.

You did not scare me away, you just did show me the way back to the darkroom. lol<br>

Seriously, your information is greatly appreciated, thanks. <br>

And I think, before I spend this much money on a digital M, I rather wait until it is more

refined.<p>

Rudy

Patrick,<p>

I was somehow suspicious regarding PrintFile. I therefore processed an unexposed film

(AGFA APX 100 in Rodinal 1:25). I then checked every frame of it and put it in a PrintFile

sleeve (35-7B). I then took the negatives out of the sleeve to recheck it. The result is that

there are several fine scratches all over the negatives. The scratches are in length from a

few mm to several inches. You can not see them on a light table, you have to take a magnifier and hold it against the light. To make it clear, there were NO scratches before I

put them in the sleeves. I now have to look for another solution as well. Until I have found

one I will put the negatives just in an envelope.<p>

Rudy

Hi Lutz,<p>

that is interesting. In Safari, the image is on top of the ad. <p>

Frohe Weihnachten.<p>

Rudy

Here is the full size image.<p>

<a href="http://www.avianart.com/105dc/105dc-full.jpg"> 105dc-full.jpg</a><p>

Hi Mark,

I am having the same problem with my 105DC. And this goes on since over a month. The

lens was already 2 times at Nikon. And it is now worse than it was before. On Monday I will

send it in the 3rd time with my D2x. The lens shows this problem with my D80 and F100 as

well. Here is a 100% crop.

Rudy<div></div>

Michael,

I just did a similar test. The only difference I could find is the vignetting of the lens @ f/2.8.

But the differences are not as big as yours.

Rudy

Ilkka, I still have an F100. I perhaps will try it. Thanks for your thoughts.

David, I agree it seams to front focusing.

Rudy

Guys, thank you very much for all your answers.

<p>

Michael, I tested it on a test chart. And I found out that with DC Front 2 the lens is

reasonable sharp. Though not as sharp as the 105 2.8.

<p>

Lex, I aimed the auto focus with the middle sensor on the left eye. And I did manual focus

at the same spot.

<p>

For me the question was, should I return it or should send it to Nikon. I have a Katz Eye

installed on my D2x. In this way I saw right away that there seams to be something

wrong with the lens. Non of my other lenses (50 1.4,17-55,70-200,200-400 etc)has this

behavior, they all focus accurately. On the other hand this is a special lens, which

obviously needs special attention. I knew that. I just did not expect this focus issue.

Anyways, I will use it in manual focus, which is just fine. After all I like the soft images this

lens can produce. This is not just a portrait lens, you can create dreamy photos like

Hamilton. I did some more tests on a test chart, nothing scientific, but interesting

nonetheless. Here is the link

<p><p>

<a href="http://www.avianart.com/105dc/web2/">105 DC test images</a>

<p>

And here is a list with some info to each image:

<p>

1 105 DC @ f2 Neutral<br>

2 105 DC @ f2 Front 2<br>

3 105 DC @ f2 Front 2.8<br>

4 105 DC @ f2 Front 4<br>

5 105 DC @ f2 Front 5.6<br>

6 105 DC @ f2 Rear 2<br>

7 105 DC @ f2 Rear 2.8<br>

8 105 DC @ f2 Rear 4<br>

9 105 DC @ f2 Rear 5.6<br>

10 105 DC @ f2 Front 2<br>

11 105 DC @ f2.8 Front 2.8<br>

12 105 DC @ f4 Front 4<br>

13 105 DC @ f5.6 Front 5.6<br>

14 105 DC @ f2 Rear 2<br>

15 105 DC @ f2.8 Rear 2.8<br>

16 105 DC @ f4 Rear 4<br>

17 105 DC @ f5.6 Rear 5.6<br>

<p>

Again thanks for you inside and happy shooting.<br>

<br>

Rudy<p>

P.S. Did someone recognize the guy in the first photos? ;)

Gerald,

I am sorry, I guess I have not properly explained what I meant. The second image is sharper

than the first one. e.g. with manual focus the image is sharper than with auto focus.

Thanks,

Rudy