rudymerz

I don't know if it is an error on my side or the lens. I acquired a Nikkor 105 DC and it looks as it has a

problem with auto focus. Here is a link to some test images:

http://www.avianart.com/105dc/web/content/index.html

The first image is with auto focus. The second with manual focus. The Defocus control was set to neutral/

off. Is this the way how it is supposed to be? Or does this lens need a CLA?

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Rudy

Darren,

My suggestion would be :

Magic Lantern Guides 'Nikon AF Speedlight Flash System' - Simon Stafford. ISBN-13:

978-1-57990-588-0

There should be all the information you need.

Not with bees, but our dog (German Shepherd) is afraid of the SWM sound. Now I can not

even lift the camera and he hides. I can imagine that the ultrasonic sound from the SWM is

disturbing to animals. It would be interesting to hear some scientific explanations.

Rudy

Shun,

You are right. Here is an 800x600 pixel crop from the image which was resized to

4560x3020 (19x13 inches @ 240 dpi). The combo is of course not as good as my

200-400VR, which was at the time on the window mount. But it is not poor. Some things

to consider;

1. The image was taken with a D2H.

2. That not everyone can afford a 5K lens.

3. The image is supposed to hang on the wall, and not watched with a loupe.;)

Especially the last point is sometimes forgotten. My images hang usually on the wall and

will be seen from a proper distance.

Here is the crop :

http://www.avianart.com/R_A_AA__42-crop.jpg

I don't what the problem is with the combination of the 70-200 and the TC 20E II, unless you

want to take images from parking signs.;) Here is an image which I photographed this

weekend with the above combo:

http://www.avianart.com/R_A_AA_42.jpg

Yes, the quality will degrade. But not to the point to describe it as "poor".

Bjorn,

and what would you use?

Rudy

Frank,

Did I understand this right, you put chemicals in food container?

Perhaps I misunderstood this.;)

Rudy

Ted,

I have a Pentax Spotmeter V with the Zone VI taped on it.

What is the difference to a modified one Zone VI meter?

Thanks

Rudy

12 frames are to much for me too. I expose every scene twice. In this way I have 6 frames

and a spare for each frame, in case I scratch one.;)

Rudy

IMHO, you can not make a comparison between both formats over the internet. You have to

stay in each realm. Take an image with a digital camera and make a digital printout.e.g

Inkjet. Stay in the digital realm. Then take an image with a MF camera and make a printout on

silver paper. Again, stay in the film/analog realm. Then compare both images and decide for

you what you like more.

"When did YOU move up to MF?"

I started this year.

"why did you get into MF?"

To start to CREATE PHOTOGRAPHS.

"What keeps YOU going?"

Photography/Art/Zonesystem

Rudy

Scott,<p>

As already stated you have to do your own time. I am using DDX and Delta 100 my times are

N-1 = 8 min, N = 10 min and N + 1 = 12 min. But this is with my Pentax V

Spotmeter,Omega enlarger, distilled water throughout, Multigrade developer, Ilford

Warmtone paper,my temperature etc. It is some work but it is worth it. Don't take a short cut,

because then the Zonesystem gets irrelevant.

<p>

Rudy

Steve,<p>

IMHO, it is not a question about quality. The questions is rather, do you want to shoot or

do you want to photograph? With the Haseelblad I visualize the photo in B&W before I

create it. With the Hasselblad I use the Zone system, which brings me beyond the dynamic

range of digital. And I still use a wet darkroom. With my D2H I mostly shoot birds.;) When I

want to get creative I use the 'blad. I tried to have a similar workflow with the D2H but it

just does not work out for me. Just my 2 cents.

<p>

Rudy

Hi,<p>

Today I received a 503CW with a

50mm CF lens. I thought this will show where the problem is. Actually it does a bit and

does not. Click <a href="http://www.avianart.com/photographes/etc/

503cw-500cm-50mm.jpg">here</a> to see another contact sheet which I made today.

The first 6 frames, counting from the lower left up, are from the 503CW with the 50mm CF

attached. The last 6 frames are from the 500CM with the 50mm CF attached. What I see is

that with the 500CM the spot is much more pronounced. But, I still have a spot, wide

open, with the 503CW and the 50mm CF. It seams to me that it is normal that the 50mm

Distagon has a spot when you take images wide open. Now this is a wall and usually I

don't take pictures from walls. And usually I don't take pictures wide open. The reason

why I found this is that I am calibrating my equipment for the Zones-System. Not to test

lenses. For me is clear that my 500CM needs a CLA. Your input is appreciated.

<p>

Rudy

Evan,<p>

The 50mm Distagon is a silver C and the 80mm Planar is a black C T*. The 50 did not have

a CLA and the 80mm was bought 6 month ago from David Odess. The body did not have a

CLA. But since I used MLU, where the curtain is up, I have no idea where the body is

further involved. I actually have two problems. First the vignetting, which is more

pronounced with the wider lens. Second the different exposures, which could be normal

with the leaf shutter lenses. I don't know how precise those shutters in those lenses are.

My other cameras are Nikons, which do not have this 'problem'. <p>

Thanks.<p>

Rudy

John, the rear curtain is actually up in MLU. I checked it without a back. It is all the way up.

And I, in particular, pay attention to the release button. I press it all the way through and

even wait a second or two after that.

Hi,<p>

I did another test with with my 500CM. This time with MLU (Mirror Lock-Up). But this

contact sheet looks even stranger. Here is the <a href="http://www.avianart.com/

photographes/etc/50-80-test-02.jpg">link.</a> As before, no filters, no shades. I have

no idea what that is. I still believe it is the body, because I have similar problems with the

50, 80 and 150mm lenses. The 50 Distagon never had a CLA. The 80 and 150 was bought

CLA'd 6 month ago. Any ideas?<p>

Thanks, I appreciate this.<p>

Rudy

Pico,

I thought the difference in exposure is normal for leaf shutter lenses.

I will make a series with 'mirror pre-fire' today, lets see how they look.

Thanks

Rudy

Michael,

No lens hoods, no filters. The shorter the focal length the more the vignetting/light fall off. I

have this problem with the 150mm too, but less than with the 80mm. I already thought there

is something strange going on here, but could not figure out what.

Thanks

Rudy

Hi,<br><p>

Is the vignetting on the 50mm Distagon and 80mm C T* wide open normal?

I am just curious, usually I do not take images wide open but this looks a little bit strange.

Especially the 50mm, it looks like that it has allways a vignetting. Here is a link to the contact

sheet. <a href="http://www.avianart.com/photographes/etc/50-80-test.jpg">Contact

sheet</a>.<p>

Thanks,<br>

Rudy

If you are looking for Hasselblad, <a href="http://www.david-odess.com/">www.david-

odess.com</a> is the best place, IMHO.

It would be interesting to see a comparison between both systems staying in their realm.

IMHO a conventional printout from a 6x6/6x7 negative is still better then that from a scan.

Not to mention a comparison between a conventional 6x7 printout vs. a printout from a

digital camera. Just my 2 cents.