erin.e

No one here can help you Bob in this unfortunate incident, We can only commierate with you and suggest that you put it down to experience.

The camera will have to be sent to Canon to be checked over as you are going to do, send the lens as well.

 

 

I feel for you in this matter, but I have learnt from years of experience, never to put a camera on any table and leave it there unattended. Even if you are there, the camera should be either in the centre of any solid table or desk with the strap wrapped up so as not to be able to be caught on.

 

I have been lucky that only one of my cameras (a N90 Nikon) hit the deck real hard when my foot got tangled in the strap while I was walking down the steps at a wedding I had been commissioned to cover. The camera survived but the 35-70 2.8 ED needed $600 NZ to repair it.

 

Fortunately I had backup equipment and just took that one on the chin and carried on.

Lucky you Michael ;-)

The Germans have a word for this type of 'humor' "Schadenfruede", it transalates similar to "finding joy in anothers misfortune.:"

 

 

It is pretty obvious that some of the commentors in this thread did not read the full content of posts and missed Marcs concerned comment that he, "didn't know who the poor schmuk behind her is, I do know that he was carried from the rink on a stretcher" or are they also just idiots that find glee in the pain of others?

I think Peter White has had enough of a kicking for his posting now. It was good advice even if delivered in an abrupt manner.

now boys put the knives away :-)

 

Internet Explorer and no problems so far.

You may not exist anymore in 8 months time Eric, get the 1D Mk2 NOW and trade it in on the new model if you must, and are still around!

Sorry this is the <a href="http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/index.html ">PhotoZone</a> link

If you are a film user, save the $400 for the convertor and tripod foot. While I don't own the excellent 120 300 2.8 EX HSM SIgma I do own a HSM EX 70-200 2.8 non DG Sigma and it has shown no propensity to produce flare in normal useage.

 

Do a google search for user reviews on your lens of choice. I have never heard of any flare problems with the 120 300 EX HSM either.

 

The 120-300 Zoom is mainly and action (sport) oriented lens. If you are mainly interested in wildlife photography perhaps the excellent 100-300 f4 HSM EX Sigma may be another option and save you more loot to spend on other photgraphic gear.

 

Check out the tests and commnets on these two lenses on <ahref="http://www.photozone.de/8Reviews/lenses/sigma_120300_28/index.htm">Photozone</a> before you make a final decision.

Yeah and Nikon build theirs so if you drop the combo, you can just pick it up and carry on;-)

 

I have used both systems and had the flash hotshoe snap from being bumped on forgeign objects. the Canon camera shoe is made of a softer metal (1N) and deformed a little. The base snapped of the flash as it was designed to do and a replacement shoe fitting was sourced. The hotshoe bracket on the camera was straigthened by a pair of fine long nosed pliers.

 

Same scenario with the Nikon (N 90x) except the camera hotshoe bracket did not deform and need to be straigthened. Just minor design concepts to acheive the same end.

 

Seems as tho you have plenty of cash Scott, just to jump systems on recently released cameras for relatively minor reasons.

Perhaps you should have just brought a 1DS 11 in the first place and saved yourself any problems and probably some cash!

I have the 70-200 EX HSM 2.8 and it is an excellent lens, sharp, contrasty, solidly built, and has proven reliable over 3 years constant use and produces a very good with a 1.4 convertor. The 100-300 f4 HSM EX, with similar attributes, is also very well regarded by a myriad of happy users and reviewers. A tough call indeed

 

Hmmmmmmm, personally, I would go with the 100-300 f4 EX HSM for a safari lens, as that extra 100mm at f4 may be really handy where you can't get too close for many reasons.

 

Click my name and check out the Airshow folder 2003 the 'Snoopy and the Red Baron' pic (Sopwith Camel and Fokker triplane) is 70-200 EX Sigma hand held with 1.4 convertor (1/500th f8) A compressed internet image is not the best way to give an example of lens performance but will give you some idea of how either of these lense perform under pressure!

Since you are not too proud to buy Sigma in the past there is always the option of a Sigma EX HSM 70-200 2.8 which would give you the versatility of a zoom plus the 2.8 at the wide end.

 

The price new is around $600 US and this lens compares very favourably to the Canon 70-200 2.8 L.

 

I have used a Sigma 70- 200 2.8 EX HSM heavily for four years for editorial pics on D60 and 10D Canons and it has proven a good and reliable optic.

 

Click my name and check out the two airshow folders plus a couple of rugby pics in the sport folder to get an idea of the performance.<div></div>

and follow on with the camera after you have pressed the shutter button just like you do with a shotgun.

Since you have no photos posted Rick it is indeed apparent you have a VERY fertile imagination on looking at your site ;-)

He is just as entitled to own a Leica as any of the elitist snobs who have denigrated him on this thread. Typical Leica forum crap. Evidently he is a very accomplished pianist as well.

Some people always find something to moan about, no matter how insignificant it is as far as taking pics is concerned

Oh, is that what the "D" in your name stands for? ;-)

If your eyesight is good, try using manual focus and full aperture 2.8, aperture preffered auto, with spot (or is it partial spot on the 5D). Hell, it is a state of the art, low noise digital camera, so experimental shoots are easy. You should not need an ISO much over 800 as the stage lighting often is sufficent.

But Ernie is asking about the 1D

I don't pre focus on action games such as rugby James, I use A1 servo and go with the ball to keep up with the action.

It is pretty sharp, nice pic and good exposure.

James Colwell wrote "For those who think these throughput tests have no real world value, you should try shooting rugby and soccer games from the sidelines. The 20D does a great job, but you frequently miss important opportunities while the stinking buffer is being cleared. My tests suggest that the 30D will not be limited in this way."

 

I have shot plenty of rugby and soccer from the sidelines James, and use the single precalculated moment shot method, not a motor burst in the chance of capturing something happening. My method ensures the buffer is always clear for that fleeting opportunity.

 

Using a 10D and a non IS 70-200 2.8, I can get about five publishable shots per 36 frames that capture the action I intended to on average. So there are more than one ways to skin a cat. Kinder on the life of the camera too ;-)

 

To me, it is much more fun to learn the cameras idiosyncrasies in the field, adjust to them, then take action pics rather than do tests, but each to his/her own I guess.

'Narnia? What is that?" said Lucy

 

"This is the land of Narnia." said the Faun, "Where we are now; all that lies between the Leica and the great castle of Cair Paravel on the Eastern Sea ............. hand me some of that morphia as well C.S."

James, instead of "burning a lot of digits" and "saturating the buffer with a burst of about 3 seconds at 5 fps" you could just take your time and get some nice pics with that nice glass and camera

Metz 54 MZ3 or MZ4 that can be used on EOS Canon with all the functions of the 550 580 Canon speedlights plus a few more. Needs the correct SCA module for your camera model and will work as a dedicated unit with other camera brands with the correct SCA module for them. German made, not a cheap option, about the same price as the Canon 580

 

I am a Metz user on EOS Canon and find them excellent.

Would not worry to much about the CF card door Thomas, it cannot be a precisely fitted unit to enable it to function easily. I have used a 70-200 on a D60 for three years and a 10 D for two and the CF doors haven't failed yet.

You are right in that the 70-200 2.8 creates a bit of downward leverage by extending forward a reasonable amount from the body, which is a little tiring on the wrist if used on a body without a battery grip .

 

So my suggestion is to buy the battery grip for your particular camera at the same time as your 70-200 2.8, to make life a little easier for yourself, and the E1 handstrap which will give great grip security to the camera unit in use, and save your poor old neck from a drubbing, by having that fast medium tele zoom suspened from it.