ralf_j.

A brownie junior that has seen better days. Not too terrible with options such as Instant and Timed shutter, and a two aperture option with a lever pull. Four screws on front plate give access to shutter. The lens can only be accessed from inside the film chamber and the front with the aid of a q-tip while you trap the shutter blade open.

Spartus Assembled

A Spartus Vanguard in 127 format. Two screws on front removed, help slide off the front plate, giving access to shutter, internal side of the lens, viewfinder and flash contacts.

Assembled

Back of shutter

Ansco Readyflash 620, dirty and rusty as they usually are. A little trial and error came handy here, where the error resulted in an extra unit I had taking a little more damage then anticipated (hey you learn from errors too). At first, you would think this camera can not come apart, WRONG. The front standard holding the shutter and lens, pivots on two posts. The whole front standard is twisted around these two posts as you would on a keyhole type painting hanger. 2 plastic notches on the view finder and a bendable metal arm over one of the "keyholes" hold the shutter from moving around. A thin flat head screw driver helped lift the metal arm, a small tug of the standard and a twist release shutter and lens; two retaining screws in the back separate the shutter from lens and voila... To assemble reverse the process.

A Bencini Comet 200 for 126 film, disassembled, cleaned, and put together. 2 screws inside film chamber and one screw is revealed when depressing the shutter button. Care needs to be applied when put together as the shutter needs to be half depressed to put the hidden screw together. Loaded with Kodak Instamatic 200 film from 1991, perhaps I can get a few images.

I am putting up this post to cover some of the "junk" cameras I have been finding at local fleamarket for a couple of dollars here and there. Some of the younger folks that use them today, go after the "effect" they generate such as light leaks, fuzzy photos, photos with complete lack of contrast or flares galore when shot against strong lighting. I have heard the kodak brownie no. 2 being called a Foggie, rightly so as its cardboard body develops leaks over time. I am of a different mindset; yes these cameras were mass produced consumer grade cameras, but they weren't produced to create those special effects the current "analogue" crowd is so smitten with. They were produced to provide the best image they could within the limited/cheap materials used to increase sales and profit margins. Some of these are rivet-nailed cameras with little remedy or hope in restoring them, however if one looks closely enough, a lot of them can be helped, either with some creativity or trial and error. I am attaching below some of the most recent "junkies" I have worked on and some details of this work.

Wow, great result from that Chinese Minolta, if it wasn't for the flat top prism, I would think this camera would look just like my sr1, sr3 or sr7. Again results are pretty impressive from that glass. I have had luck with their modern AF Yongnuo lenses made for MFT and Canon mounts. Always great to see your posts Rick when I am able to catch my breath.

Thank you for the response. ralf

Hello, had a question regarding Yashica Pentamatic first bayonet mount Yashica. Does this camera have automatic return aperture actuator in the mount, or does it move/open the blades only when cocking the shutter? Much appreciated in advance. ralf

Happy 4th

Hi Andy - I managed to do it with a hook pick tool from a cheap Home Depot set. Photo below

Thanks Joe, i will give that a try, rubberized tips seems like a good idea, the just need to be thin enough to sneak into the gap between c ring’s end

The online searches reveal tools that remove rings from ball bearing retainers which can take some force vs. lenses that are prone to scratches...

I came here after searching online, so no I am not being lazy, thanks for your help though...

Hello everyone. Had a quick question whether anyone has any tips on removing spring c clips that are used as retaining rings, usually on the cheaper lenses. I have done this before but usually find it quite difficult to do, and there is also the fear of scratching the lens. Thanks.

Super cool, love that brownie. Had the same experience with a Bilora Blitz box camera, someone bought it and forgot about it. Had not had much luck with gluing my own bellows, I just usually make a big mess with contact cement. I have used Jurgen Kreckel’s services a couple of times, so good luck with the project.

Hi Andy, so nice hear from you. I am looking forward as well, just waiting for weather to improve a tad. :)

Looks good too

Thanks JDM, good to see you :). Ah I just read your previous post, hope you feel better soon.

LOL. I have a teenager my self and a quasi teen so totally understand the situation. My teenager has already been bitten by the bug and walks around with my full frame Sony A850 and Minolta Maxxum 50mmm 1.7 lens, when she wants to use film she usually goes back to the Minolta SR-7 with a nifty rokkor 50mm 1.7.

JDM my friend, what have you been up to?

what kind of camera was that :-)