marc schneider dc metro

Off Topic Christof asked: <i>Does that mean that Nikon's engineers are more intelligent?</i>

<p>No, it means that the Canon marketing people are smarter :)

Fluorite glass can crack if subject to extreme rapid temporature changes, but it is relatively rare. I don't know where in the lens the fluroite elements are located. If they are exposed to the air and you take them from a very warn environment to a very cold environment, they might crack. Fluorite lenses are also used in high end apochromatic telescopes, for example see the Televue Vixen or similar.

Rather than setting the setting the bottles directly on a white surface, you can lift the bottles up, e.g. placing them on glass above the white surface and place gobos below the bottle to prevent the reflected light from bouncing up and illuminating the bottle.

I have a 20D, which lately I've been using for some photos that need

slow shutter speed. After the exposure has been made and the shutter

closes, it often takes a long time before the image is displayed on

rear LCD. Anyone know what is causing this? Is it the digital noise

reduction?

There is a recall on some of the battery grips. See canon's website for details.

I was reviewing some photographs I had taken, and was looking at the

technical data when I noticed that there was no ISO setting displayed

in the metadata section of Photoshop Elements 3.0. I had lens focal

length, shutter speed and aperture, but no ISO setting info. Does the

20D record this? Is it a problem with elements not showing it? If so,

how do I see this information.

Bill -

<br>

You said:

<i>Exposing people to the experience of wildlife - yes I can see your point to a degree but I would have thought wildlife TV and books would have been enough to set them off.</i>

<p>

But check the credits of the wildlife TV shows and books carefully. Many of the them use captive animals in controlled situations.

Bob -

 

Does cranking up the contrast parameter effect raw images?

When I ran my experiments, I tried uping the ISO without overexposing and overexposing without uping the ISO, and only the combinations seems to expand the histogram. Any idea what was happening?

Well, I feel bad answering my own question, but I figured it out via some experimentation. I up the ISO setting one stop and over exponsed the image by one stop, which resulted in expanding the histogram and keeping the correct exposure.

I have a canon 20D and was taking photos of a low contrast (3 stops

between highlights and shadows) subject. Examining the histogram of

the images shows the histogram covering three stops. Is there any way

to adjust the controls so that the camera expands to record as much

detail as possible which I can then manipulate in photoshop?

 

Basically, I wondering if there is an digital equivalent of using

expanded and constracted development with over and under exposure to

control contrast?

Check with Chrome in Georgetown, but in my $40 for a high quality 16x20 digital print is pretty cheap.

I too have an Exakta with a leaky shutter curtain. I've patched it temporarily with india ink. I dries out after a while and will need to be reapplied periodically, but I found it works pretty well. I learned this trick from a sales person at B&H's used department many years ago.

I just noticed that I calculated the depth of field for 22.6m not 3.5m focus distance. But the questions about Moose's book and DOF with TC remains.

In Moose Peterson's Guide to Wildlife Photography, he states that with

a 1.4x TC you retain 40% of the depth of field of the effective f/stop.

 

I not exactly sure what he means by this and it doesn't make much

sense to me any way that I interpret this.

 

I would assume that you have the same DOF of the a lens 1.4 time

longer in focal length and one stop slower. Is this not true?

 

For example:

Using a 400mm lens at f/5.6 focused at 3.5m the DOF is 41.4 inches.

Put an 1.4x TC on this lens results in a 560mm lens at f/8 still

focused at 3.5m the DOF should be 29.9 inches. Is this not correct?

 

What would the DOF be according to Moose's rule? 23.7 inches? 12

inches? Something else? Moose's explaination just doesn't make

physical sense to me.

 

I know of other technical mistakes in this book regarding TCs (esp.

why a TC make a lens one stop slower, Moose claims it is due to more

glass, it is not), so another one wouldn't suprise me.

The unified view seems to be timing out and not returning any

listings. Individual forum seem to work fine.

Kodak EPY

Chrome in Georgetown has a frontier.

I think in english they are refered to as Carbon Arc Lamps, but I don't know of any sources from them. Haven't seen them since the late '70s when I used them to expose offset plates.

Hugh -

 

Prices from B&H:

 

Fuji Sensia 100-36 is $2.69, Fuji mailers are $3.99 = $6.69 per roll with processing. If you toss in postage ($0.60) it is just above $7 a roll.

I'd set it to where I am focusing. So, if the hyperfocal distance is 1.3m at f/32 then set it to 1.2-4 and everything from 0.67m to inf will be in focus.

The basic process is simple, the details are complex. The basic process is to put the slide into a holder for an enlarger and the 4x5 film in an easel on the baseboard of the enlarger. Expose and develop.

How do you pack film to mail for processing? In boxes? With or without

can (for 35mm)? Any packing material?

A technique I've used successfully, especially when shootng outside, is to have the model walk towards you quickly while you are walking backwards shooting.

Try photographics unlimited. I believe that they have scanner/computer rentals as well as darkroom rentals.

 

ICP used to have it when they were uptown, don't know if they still do in the new place, but you might have to be a student or former student there to use ICP equipment.