bj_bignell

Daniel,

Delta 3200 is not a true ISO 3200 film, but rather an ISO 800-1000 film that is designed to respond well to push-processing. As far as I know, TMAX 3200 is similar.

There's absolutely nothing wrong with shooting these films at 3200, or at any other speed for that matter. It all depends on what you need, and what your tastes are.

Use the search feature of this site to get more information; a number of people in the B&W forum have posted different experiences which may help guide your decision.

BJ

As the others have said, it's probably safe to dump developer and stop down the drain. If you have a septic tank, however, you may upset the chemical/bacterial activity in the system.

Silver recovery should be attempted with fixer. Check with a local photo shop or pro lab that does B&W work, and ask if you can add your spent fixer to their recovery system.

BJ

A foggy night on Whyte Ave

Edmonton, Alberta<div></div>

Just to follow up with my previous post, it was the February 2004 issue of Black & White, and it's a review of Pictorico Premium OHP Transparency.

BJ

Demetrius,

A recent issue of Black & White Photography (British magazine) had an article about making digital negatives for contact printing. I think it was actually a product review, which might also help!

BJ

Tony,

I've been thinking about doing the same for my Elph Jr, too. If you follow the link provided by one of the other posters, you'll see in the pictures that there is an "Irreversible Processed Indicator". On one of your canisters, you'll see the small piece of plastic pushed in at that location.

Simply by covering that up (glue in a little piece of plastic, maybe) should be enough to trick the camera into thinking it has a fresh roll, but it still may be expecting magnetic information on the roll, which would pretty much defeat the exercise. I think the sprocket holes are just for the developing/printing stage. They're spaced wider than 35mm film, so you might not want to keep them when you cut the film.

Since you seem to have a film cutter, and I don't, I'm encouraging you to go for it! If you manage to get it working, borrow a friend's digicam and take some pictures of the procedure (opening the cassette, spooling, etc), so that those of us who are interested (OK, maybe it's just me) can see.

BJ

Ashely,<br><br>

It should be easy, because as you said, you don't have to line up any film. Just leave the sheet on the camera (assuming there's no need for recomposing the scene...).<br><br>

Some articles on multiple exposure techniques from the archives:<br><br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000OPR">

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=000OPR</a><br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0009jT">

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=0009jT</a><br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001xd2">

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001xd2</a><br><br>

BJ

Ed,

I really like the texture of the first shot. I also like the last picture of the small house/shed.

What grips me about that picture is the black, black sky surrounding the structure. Absolutely beautiful...

BJ

My Yashica FX-3 Super has proven to be really durable. It has a good center-weighted meter, and can take Zeiss glass (the 50mm/1.7 is not expensive). The Yashica/Yashinon lenses are cheaper, but not as nice as Zeiss, or even a good Pentax. It uses readily-available LR-44 batteries for the meter, but is otherwise fully manual.

The only thing I don't like is the "ka-thunk" of the mirror; it's a little loud for some situations.

BJ

Alex,

I really picture #2. I think it's great because of the guy with the towel on his head... Guess he can't afford an umbrella?

BJ

Well, I messed up, and accidentally processed my overexposed roll of HP5 normally (Ilfosol-S 1+9, 7 minutes, 10 seconds of agitation once per minute). I pulled the negs out of the tank, and although they're darker than I'm used to seeing, they're not that bad... In fact, I think that they'll print pretty nice (in my amateur opinion).

So I'm scratching my head, trying to figure out what I just did. Overexposure by five stops? Not likely; maybe three stops at best. Complete lack of brain function on a sunny Sunday, leading to confusion and overreaction? Most likely.

Thanks to everyone for the suggestions; I hope I haven't been a bother. And, if I ever do overexpose a roll of HP5 by five full stops some day, I know that I'll have to run straight out for some blackberry Kool-Aid :-)

BJ

Kevin,

Take a junk roll of film to your nearest hardware store and try different sizes of metal or nylon washers to find the right fit. Try putting a washer underneath one end or both ends of the feed spool. This should make it spin less easily, and therefore increase the tension as you draw film across the camera onto the take-up spool.

You could also try cutting the end off of an extra 120 film spool, but this might be too thick, and could cause your film to be offset quite a bit towards one edge.

If you use washers consider gluing them in place, as it'll be easy to drop them when changing rolls.

BJ

I accidentally overexposed a 120 roll of HP5 by 5 stops (ISO 12), due

to what must have been a complete brain failure when reading my light

meter. The pictures are all taken in bright, almost overcast

conditions so there will not be a lot of contrast to start with. Is

there any way to salvage this film?

I'm going to pick up a couple of extra rolls, and expose them

similarly, so I can do a number of different tests. I have Ilfosol

1+9 mixed up right now, and if I have to get something different,

would like to stick to a liquid developer for ease of preparation.

These shots are not important, but I can't just throw them away

without trying! Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks,

BJ

Victor: Great idea! That's the kind of solution I need... I can almost see myself having the space for a darkroom now!

BJ

<i>I'm surprised you got these results... If I were to try it at 400 I'd use Microphen. Ilfosol-S would be among the last developers I'd try...</i><br><br>

Undoubtedly, Ilfosl-S was not the best choice for this push, but it's what I have, and it worked better than expected. I'm pretty new to the B&W darkroom game, so I'm trying to keep it simple. Besides, this was all for fun; I just wanted to see how bad it might be.<br><br>

<i>I'd be interested in hearing about the results of how these negatives print conventionally...</i><br><br>

My scanning skills are pretty poor, and you can see that the scans I made vary a lot. There's a few on the roll I like, so I'll probably get them printed, and then posted (eventually).<br><br>

Just a note: I previously used Ilfosol 1+9 for 9:00m on a 120 roll of FP4 that I had accidentally shot at 125 AND 400 (doh!). The overall results were better than these.<br><br>

BJ

Hello,<br><br>

There have been a few posts in the past regarding shooting/developing

FP4 at ISO 400 (and how this is not recommended). Just for kicks I

tried it out, and I've <a href="http://www.photo.net/photodb/folder?

folder_id=377927">posted a few sample pictures</a> to show my

results.<br><br>

Details:<ul>

<li>Ilfosol-S 1+9, 9:00 minutes

<li>30s initial agitation

<li>10s agitation every minute

<li>Scanned from negative on Epson 1260 flatbed scanner @ 1200dpi</ul>

The development time was guess-timated using information from the

Massive Dev Chart.<br><br>

BJ<div></div>

OK, I know you're asking a rhetorical question, but my guess is that it was the F2. Am I right? Do I win a prize? :-P

Congrats on the blue ribbon!

BJ

Chris,

I've pushed Delta 3200 to somewhere about 6400, developed in Ilfosol-S 1+9 for about 18:30-19:00m (I don't have my notes with me, so I'm going from memory).

Attached is a small crop of an image taken by streetlight with this combination.

As Lex said, you'll get big popcorn grain, not hard gritty grain. The grain in my picture is actually pretty mushy, probably due to the Ilfosol-S more than anything else.

BJ<div></div>

Asim,

Generally speaking, topless or nude pictures are not an issue at most labs, but this varies from place to place. Walmart will inevitably more family-oriented and conservative; at the worst, they'll refuse to print the images (and may not process the entire batch). Pornography/sexual acts will never get printed, and may get you in trouble (again, this depends on the location).

Ask to see a copy of the store policy for photofinishing, and if you're still concerned, ask to speak to the manager of the photo department, or even the store manager. Discuss the situation openly, and you should find that they'll be accommodating.

You did say that the prints are not important, so it should be no issue to just get the developing done, if they're concerned about printing the content.

BJ