brian_keller

If anyone is willing to post some images taken with lower end (relatively cheap) digital cameras that would be great - the cost of their camera and the technicals accompanying the image would be fantastic. Thanks for any help on this.

 

Brian.

I'm looking to buy a cheap digital camera for only emailing pictures

not printing pictures. I'm looking for something of the order of 2

Megapixels, auto and manual focus, say 3x optical zoom, and AA

batteries (ie.cheap batteries). Looking to spend about 300 USD ?

Thanks for any advice on a brand.

 

Brian.

I find it interesting how someone can look at themselves in the

mirror everyday and think nothing of it and yet when they see a

picture of themselves its a huge deal and all of a sudden its almost

strange to see oneself in a picture. Why is this?

 

Brian.

Can anyone recommend a good book (or anything for that matter) on how

to pose people. I'm generally interested in older style glamour

photography.

 

Thanks,

Brian

I look at digital vs. traditional film as two entirely different processes. I don't look at them as competing processes - at least as an art form. If I were a photojournalist or needed prints done instantly and cost effectively the whole issue might be different. So as a hobbyist I would like full control over my picture process and this is the reason why I am considering the darkroom. Any thoughs from experienced dark roomers on a newbie getting involved in this? Any recommendations - thanks for any advice.

Someone I know is selling their entire darkroom. Do you think that

950 USD is a reasonable price for the following:

 

Simmon Omega Automega B7 Condenser Enlarger

El-Nikkor 1:2,8 f=50mm lens

El-Nikkor 1:5,6 f=105mm lens

4 X Darkroom Safelights (2 OC filters, 2 safe red filters)

Stainless Steel Development canisters and reels (35mm & 120mm)

Plastic Development canister

Color developing canisters with rotating motor

6-foot long developing sink with faucets

ventilation system

Sun-proof glass bottles (used for mixing or storing chemicals)

Black-out paper box

Print croppers

IC Enlarger Timer

Archival Print washer

Archival Print dryer/press

Developing trays and thongs

4 X 5 negative Developing tanks

Manual Timer

Extras

Does anyone have a sample image using 3200K balanced film (tungsten balanced film). I've never tried it and I'm wondering how it looks - does it appear at all yellow?

Thanks!

Something else that I find works very nicely and costs 0 dollars is to shine your 1000 watts at a large white wall and use the reflected light on your model. Have the model 7 or 8 feet out from the wall and the results can be stunning.

I recently purchased a Hassy 500c/m with the standard CF planar

lens. I'm going to a photo workshop this weekend and may be using a

flash kit (ie. few strobes). This will be the first time I use a

flash kit with this camera. Will the standard sync cord fit onto my

lens or do I need to buy some sort of an adapter? Thank you.

If anyone has found a good solution to scanning black and white

medium format (6x6) negatives on the Epson perfection 3200 could you

please send me the recipe. Everything I have tried has come out like

crap. I've tried the Epson software and the Silverfast software,

scanning a transparency in colour mode or black and white mode -

nothing seems to work. I must be doing something wrong because I

can't imagine the scanner can't do better. Thanks for any help on

this.

 

Brian.

I am a recent owner of the Hassy 500c/m system. Is the formentioned

book worth purchasing. Also, is there sufficient information

specific to my camera system in this book. Thanks for any help.

 

Brian.

I'm using Tri-X B&W 120 film rated at a speed of 320 to do some

portraiture this Sunday. My question is this: Where does the rating

of 320 come from and why this number? Am I meant to set my meter to

a film speed of 400 and then go with what the meter reads. Perhaps

this is a basic question but I would like to know why 320 and if I

should set my digital meter to an ISO of 320 or something different

and what the effects will be. Thanks for any help on this.

 

Brian.

Hello:

 

About a week ago I purchased a 500c/m Hasselblad with 80mm f/2.8 CF

lens and an A12 back. The body and back are from 1981 and 1982.

Everything appears functionally very well and cosmetically very well.

However, today I picked up my first set of pictures that I took with

this camera. I noticed that in about 1/2 - 3/4 of the pictures there

is a white streak that is mainly in the vertical direction but does

appear in the horizontal direction a few times. On the negatives you

can see this streak and there is not a clean boarder on the edge of

the negative but somewhat of a yellowish penumbra. Also, when

looking at the negatives the streak does not go continuosly from

negative to negative (ie. there is no streak between frames). Also,

I have two prints of virtually the same picture with same shutter and

aperture and one has the white ghost like streak whereas the other

does not. My question: Is this a light leak (ie. a problem with the

back?) - I suspect so but I'm not sure. I thought a light leak would

show up red on the prints? As mentioned, cosmetically everything

looks great. Any help would greatly be appreciated, as I'm a little

depressed after saving the cash to buy this system and now this. The

quality however, in the non-streak pictures is phenomenal.

Could anyone comment on the Acute Matte D focus screen with split image and microprism in terms of focussing and viewing(composition) ... the 42215? Thanks

I have the Hassy 500c/m with the standard screen. Can someone

comment on the Accute Matte D focus screen regarding how much

brighter it is and if its worth purchasing? Are their other screens

that people would recommend to make focusing and viewing easier.

Typical costs of used screens and things to look out for would be

very helpful as well. Thanks for any help!

 

Brian.

Thanks very much for your help on this. It makes perfect sense.

This may turn out to be a trivial question: I rented a Hass 500c/m

with 80mm CF lens and A12 back. This is my first time using this

camera. When I first put my hands on the camera I released the

shutter a few times and things were working great. Then for no

apparent reason the shutter release button no longer depressed. I

realize that the metal slide must be out for the camera shutter to go

off and I realize that the lens and body must be cocked when the lens

goes on. If I take off the back, the shutter releases fine but when

the back is on (without the metal slide in place)the shutter does not

release? Also, on the shutter release button there is a little

lever - I do not know what this is for but in either position it does

not help my situation. Any possible help on why my shutter button

does not depress with back in place would be helpful as for now I

cannot use the camera. Thanks for any help.

 

Brian

Are the chrome and black 500c/m bodies identical - I hear they are

and that the chrome is a better purchase because it has a higher re-

sale value. Is this correct. Thanks.

 

Brian.

I'm in the midst of purchasing a Hasselblad 500c/m. My issue is that

I can afford one lens and I will use the camera primarly for single

person portraiture. In 35mm, I use a Nikkor 85mm f/1.8 most often

and I love this lens. Would you recommend the 100mm or the 120mm.

I'm not so interested in a macro feature and I like the lower f/stop

associated with the 100mm. However, perhaps the 120 would give a

flatter look (more appealing) due to its longer focal length. Any

recommendations from users of either of these lens'. Thanks very

much!!

I'm looking into purchasing the Hass 500c/m but I will rent it

first. My question is regarding the black versus chrome 80mm f/2.8

standard lens. Can someone just give me a quick rundown on the C

versus CF and the chrome versus black lens' in terms of which is

better or which one you'd recommend purchasing. Thanks very much.

 

Brian.

Hello .... I've been shooting 35mm but would like to add a medium

format to my collection. I realize this is a broad question, but can

anyone recommend a camera that is not overly expensive and not overly

expensive to maintain (ex. lens/parts etc..), that is very nice to

hold and use and what to watch out for when buying a medium format.

I'd like an exchangeable back on it - I was thinking Bronica?

Also, I assume only the more expensive cameras are flash cord

compatible to work with monolights/strobes? Thanks for any advice

and I do apologize for such a general basic question, however, these

boards have been very useful for me in getting feed back prior to

purchases - thanks again!

 

Brian.

Hello .... I'm planning on doing a 1930's style black and white

photoshoot where I'm using one single quartz-halogen (tungsten) light

in a spot light fashion shining down on the model and the model will

be portrayed in a "glamour" style --- like Hollywood movie star in

spot light type of thing. I will shoot this with 35mm - would anyone

recommend one black and white film over another for this? I guess

I'm looking for something quite contrasty? Thanks for any help.

 

Brian.

I have some PANF 50 that I want to try for taking pictures of pretty

women - glamour style ....... have people used this for such work?

Thanks.

I know this has come up before but I'd like to take a consensus on

what the photographer offers the model in a TFP arrangement? Does

the photographer offer the model a few prints plus some select files

on CD? Does the model expect a copy of all pictures taken? I

suspect its important to make things clear up front. Thanks for any

input on this.

I have the opportunity to shoot a model in the street .. a TFP

thing. Does anyone have ideas on where I can shoot this model ...

ex. cafe's, alleys .. lighting spots etc... Any info. would be much

appreciated. Thanks!!