david_cuttler

If the photo is interesting who cares what camera took it? I sure don't. It is far more interesting to see a theme develop, than worry about what kind of gear was used to take the picture. I have a hard time trying to think that folks who post here are only Leica owners. Heck I have been buying cheap rangfinders at the local flea market, and falling in love with each one. The latest is a mint Olympus RC for $25.00. I just replaced the foam light seals, and am ready to take some more non-Leica pictures.

I have no problem with the CV-25mm on my M4-P. With the wide depth of field, scale focusing is easy. It also helps that I have been using a Rollei 35, and various Minox subminiature cameras for years, all of which are guess focus. I also do not bother with the aux. viewfinder, I just assume everything I can see in the .72 viewfinder window is what I will get, and it seems to come out OK. Also the lens has click stops on the focus, this is a really neat feature!

 

This is a real sharp lens, and it takes up very little space. If I had to make the decision again, I would purchase another one just like it.

Buy the Konica lenses. I use a konica 50mm & 90mm on my leica M4-P. I really like them.

If you decide to continue to use your glasses, www.cameraquest.com sells thin black plastic rings that stick on the eyepiece of the Leica to protect your glasses. They are cheap, and work well. They are even textured in black to look like camera leather.

I would rather stick to liquids if I can. I am going out now to Tap Plastics to buy meaterial for a film holder to fit my scanner. I built one from brass awhile ago, but I am not real happy with it. It was too heavy, and wanted to tilt in the scanner!

TRI-X for everything, except in my Minox cameras where I am trying everything! In the morning I will load some Pan F, and some Efke 25.

I took this with my son's clunker Kodak DC215 which really does not have any Macro ability. This shot was taken before I poured in the epoxy, and covered it with felt. The cut off machine screw and nuts hold the blades in alignment prior to filling the box. The blades are break-off utility blades I purchased from ACE hardware. The blade holders are compressed brass tubes. The box is the one the Minox film comes in. If you go to the web page in my first post, there is a very good discription of the whole thing. Like I said I just put my touch on Ron Pedelty's design. The real shock is how well it works. I mean really it cost zip!

 

The hole punch device I purchased today to cut the keyhole in the film leader cost more than the slitter.

 

I just purchased a roll of Ilford pan F, & Efke ASA 25 to load first. My empty cassettes just arrived from Mixox yesterday.

 

I went back and read your older posts regarding Rodinal Special, but it's not to be found in the SF bay area, so I purchased a LB. of Sodium Sulfate to make up a stock solution. How long will the solution keep prior to adding the Rodinal?

 

Regards

 

David Cuttler<div></div>

Percussion players at the flea market. Berkeley CA. 2002<div></div>

Martin, I built it just as designed, a pull thru slitter. I made a few refinements in the construction using mostly Aircraft Plywood with a fir base. By cutting up small pieces of plywood and gluing them into place, I was able to assure perfect alignment of the cutting block, with out using a chisel or router. See the attached photo. I am amazed by how well it works, and the cost in next to nothing. It will also be easy to work with in a changing bag.<div></div>

Ollie.. did you rate the Pan F at 50? Also what is your developing time in Rodinal at 1-25?

This is one of the best projects of all time. Using a design by Ron

Pedelty. It cost around $10,00 to build, and works great! I did a dry

run after finishing it tonight, and the film is next to it in the

photograph(I removed the sprocket strips. The instructions can be

seen at his web site

 

http://ronp.freeyellow.com/slitter.htm

 

Thanks Ron!<div></div>

Reloading Questions

 

When using reloading slit bulk film, and it comes time to process it,

how do you cut the keyhole in the leader to allow use of the Minox

processing tank?

 

My other question is; do any of you do your film slitting & loading

in a changing bag? I don�t have a darkroom. It sounds like it could

be a problem.

I am doing the same as you mark. My father had a collection of slides going back to 1950. I am scanning the for the rest of the family. It's a huge task. This was taken in Hollywood FL While we were on winter vacation. I am not sure what camera was used, but I think it was a small folding 35mm. He used an extincinon light meter, the kind you look through to see what numbers are visible. My dad later traded it in on a Nikon Rangefinder.

 

Thats me in the forground, and my brother next to me. That's my grandfather in the backround reading the paper.<div></div>

Ok I am making progress. I called Minox Processing Laboratory, and asked if they sold empty cassettes. I asked them the same question a couple of years ago, and the answer then was no. This time it was different they had some, so I have a supply coming in the mail.

 

Now on to the film decision. Whenever I get involved in trying all kinds of film and developers, my photographs goes to hell, so I quit doing that. I have been using Tri-X & D76 in 35mm for years, and never saw the need to change. For the Minox, I am leaning toward Ilford ASA100, which is available in 9mm strips from Goathill. I want to use one all around film without too much grain, and stay with it. The reason I picked The Ilford, is there are so many well-documented methods of developing it for fine grain.

 

I would welcome any input you want to share prior to making the purchase.

I am looking for a good place to purchase Minox film for my IIIs.

Good pricing is always of interest, along with good selection. Are

there any commercial sources for loaded cassettes with non-standard

Minox film? I do not have a dark room, so slitting and rolling my own

is not an option at this time. If I had come cassettes I might

consider using a changing bag, but it would be a royal PIA under

those conditions. Thanks for any help

 

David

On my IIIS I just write the asa speed on the back with a pencil, and erace it when it is going to stand empty.

There isn't a point & shoot with a lens as fast as the f2 Xenon in your Retina IIA. I have a Yashica T4 which is a nice camera, but I would be willing to bet it will not deliver better photographs than your Retina. I speak from experiance, because I once oened a Retina IIA. I also own a Rollei 35 which takes wonderful pictures, but also suffers from the slower lens speed. If you do not do much low light photography, The T4 will be fine. Another thing to consder is most point & shoot cameras will not accept filters. Also some of the point & shoot cameras suffer from fall off in the corners.

 

Good luck with you choice.

Martin what film did you use for minox photograph? I have a Minox IIIS, and started with ASA 400 which has way too much grain. I now have a roll of ASA 100 in it. The problem using slower fine grain film for quality, is it makes low light shooting hand held a real tough job.

Travis, I own a Rollei 35. I am the first and only owner having purchased it new sometime in the early 70s. It�s a great camera & has never let me down. The only drawback is the f3.5 lens. It�s very limiting. The Rollei 35S has an f2.8 lens, but it is only ½ stop faster. My experience with the Rollei has been very positive with the exception of the lens speed, and I never had a problem with the scale focus. As a side note, mine is equipped with the Xenar lens, which is very sharp!

 

I made up my mind that from now on I will never buy another non-interchangeable lens camera slower than f2. The extra stop can make a real difference in available light photography. I just purchased a Konica S3, which is supposed to be a really good picture taker. I should have it Monday or Tuesday. If it lives up to it�s billing, The Rollei 35 will go into the closet.

I am waiting for is a small digital camera about the size of my Rollei 35, with a lens f2 or faster, and the equvelant sensitivity of between 400 to 800 ASA. This will allow hand held low light pictures. They are getting close but are not quite there. When it happens I will purchase one. I think the camera that is very close, is the Pentax Optio 430. The problem is it tops out at 200ASA, and around f2.5. to 4.5 zoom

Someone mentioned the single use cameras you see in the corner drug store or supermarket. It would be interesting to know what the selling ratio is between those cameras, and film only.

 

I had the opportunity to visit a Wal Mart processing facility, and was astounded by the amounts of plastic single use camera bodies in bins to be recycled. There were reinforced cartons 6 X 6 X 6 feet full of AA alkaline batteries. For most people who are not photo hobbyists the throwaway camera is the easiest path to a photograph of reasonable quality. The point & shoot film cameras are still very popular too. The folks who use point &shoot cameras along with the single use cameras take them to the local 1-hour shops or to Costco or Wal Mart to get their photographs, and these facilitys still doing a good business. They even sell B & W single use cameras!

 

With the single use & point & shoot cameras the camera is all you need. You don�t need a computer, or special printer. As long as these products are being used film will always be around.

 

If the quality of film, cameras and optics never improved from today, we already have systems that are capable of better photographs than most of us can produce. So if no improvements are ever made for film, everyone will get what they want or need for may years to come.

 

This said, I have been lusting for a Pentax Optio 430 Digital pocket camera.

I have divided the chemicals, both developer (D-76) & fixer. I really stir the whole package of powder in a stainless kitchen bowl, then use a small measuing cup to go from bag to bag one cup full at a time untill all the stuff is divided. I use Zip lock bags, making 1 qt. of d-76 at a time. I have never had a problem. The measuring cup is a 1/4 cup in quantity this means it will take a number of rotations to finish the job.

I believe one of the real problems, is having a forum so tightly restricted to �Leica�. It would be much more interesting to have a more general forum and call it �Rangefinders� because I am willing to bet almost everyone that owns a Leica, also either owns, has owned, or is interested in other rangefinder cameras. I know I have a few and would like to be able to discuss them along with the Leica without getting folks bent out of shape. The rangefinder topic probably connects us much more than Leica does.

 

Just think of all the Rolleis, Contax, and other brands out there. Heck I just purchased a used Konica S3 compact rangefinder to go along with some of the other rangefinder gear I might feel guilty mentioning on this forum. Just my two cents worth.

I used Paul Ebel Lens service. He advertises in the back of shutterbug. He cleaned and adjusted the shutter on my Ensign 820 Selfix folding camera, and did a nice job. He did the job fast too.

I really cannot stand the "which lens or camera should I save or sell" posts. I can go along with which one should I buy, but after the purchase if you don't know what works for you it's too bad, you will never know. Just be a man and make a decision on your own!