grain

To be clear, it's a digital image I pasted together, not a photo. ;-)

Said Film to Digital: "Obi-wan never told you what happened to your Father..."

Well actually I created that little pic when the "Great Yellow Father" decided last year to nix

the manufacture of VP in 120. joining the ranks of great films gone away.

R.I.P.: APX25, Verichrome Pan, Panatomic-X, Kodachrome 25.

Ya, whatever you need to know. There's actually many more of us than would be thought

from the 'new look' of Photo.net. (read: Photo.shop) I feel like that guy in 'Serpent and the

Rainbow": "Don't bury me! I'm not [quite] dead yet!".<div></div>

...of guilt come whenever I am in a thrift or antique shop and see boxes of 'carte de visite'

style portraits of 'Mother' or 'Uncle Ed'. Standing. Group photographs of someone's

heritage now being pawned off. But there's no helping it I suppose. The family line that

belonged to these photographs may be lost, married out, or even God forbid, extinct.

In my own family there are few photographs of the generations which came before. A fire

in Somerville Ma. in the late seventies took care of that. I'm driving to Nova Scotia

tomorrow with my Father, who last night insisted that he be in a snapshot of every place

we stop to visit- making up for lost photo's.

I once garnered a Welta at an estate sale, which had a roll of Verichrome pan in it,

exposed. I developed it and spent some time tracking down the eldest son of the late

owner, who was astonished and happy to see that summer day in the sixties in Vermont.

So readers, think on who's heritage it is we hold in hand at the local flea market, and

before claiming it our own, give a thought to the 'what if they're still out there'.<div></div>

That is a nice result, Kevin! I printed what I had gotten from the ID-11 last night, onto the

EFKE Graded double weight paper #3, the daylight exp. were fair, but the tungsten shots

were awful. Really nice Paper though, and cheap. I may have to get some of their #2.

I just was looking at freestyle and figuring out what ORMD means. I'll get some Rodinal

then, and thanks all.

All kodak stock that was made back then on bases other than real celluloid were marked

'safety'. Even the color pos. and color neg. Sorry.

Why overlook the cheapest and often best solution? I've pushed the stuff beyond 6400 and

in Neofin Blue/Beutler got really nice results. Even in D76 it's nice, and without the annoying

hypercontrast the 't' grain stuff is prone to.

Unless I get a ton of 'rodinal' a'la fotog's formulary, I can't get the real agfa stuff anymore.

Have thought about perceptol, also a PQ. Thoughts on Perceptol?

Note: Please respond here in the forum, Lowell (lowellh@***********.com). Don't SPAM my

mailbox with sales offers or "product bulletin's" again. Moderator take note please.

I got great sharpness tonight with my standby ID-11 stock, but my zones are way too far apart. Other

than Neofin Blue which I have a hard time finding nowadays, what might you suggest? Going to Nova

Scotia in a week with twenty rolls.

Have the original someplace. I no longer need it. I'll keep you informed, it may be a while.

Pester my e-mail in a couple days. A.

I use two models almost every week. The aluminum bodied 350, and the 360, which has a

ni-cad flash. The ni-cad cell is usually quite dead when you find them for $10 at a flea

market, and the batteries are tricky to rig. I use 123's soldered in permanently. Will last at

least a year. A competent repair shop can put another ni-cad cell in the 360's flash for

$50.

The 350 takes the 265 flashgun (I think) and bulbs, 'M' class.

I really love these cameras and would not be without them. And as for film, fuji now makes

better than the original. Just keep those rollers really clean between packs and have a

blast.

A.

P.S.:

The metering system on these things is the most accurate thing I've ever worked with.

How it works I do not know, but what it does is add up the cumulative amount of light

falling on the scene, and even will time up to an eight minute exposure all by itself. Of

course you'll need the specially designed cable release from polaroid circa 1969 to do this.

You're about to get addicted to a $1.50 a shot camera.

Good luck!

Most (90%+) people are ugly when naked. I mean ugly: no excuses, wincingly hard to look

upon ugly. If you're enjoying what you see too much, it's porn. Justifications are millionfold

for nude pinups of hardbodies. In the forties nudes were universally called 'fine art' photo's

in an effort to mask the erotica that everyone knew they represented. Nor should one delude

themselves into the school that says if it's nude it's 'art' .

The thought behind the image is what matters: the communication between viewer and

artist.

...if you cut steps that have been determined to be needed by a hundred years of trial and

error. Make time is my advice. If you cut stop bath, then at least three changes of water

with agitation between dev and fix.

lest we forget:

Low Contrast,

Fogged Base,

Browning Negs,

Tarnished Blacks,

"The Horror..."

1+100 E.I.=16. 5min. @ 21C

this from

http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

Use it, support it, and they'll keep the site going. Thanks.

Lowell Ma.

Got myself a G2220 with a GITZO ball head to console myself. I carry it in and out wrapped

in an old sweatshirt, which makes it look like something else.

The door is fixed, and a better lock put on the entry way to the building.

Reward flyer got no response, locals and police suggest the perp threw it away once they

discovered it wasn't an easy item to fence. So I'm done. it's 35mm for the Nova Scotia trip.

Sad.

If anyone's interested, I have all the scantlings, books, and blue & gold boxes it came in.

Thanks for indulging my fantasy of getting it back.

A.

but there's more sites and sellers out there than just ebay, and I'm desperate to have it

back.

(I'm plastering this everywhere, please read)

On Monday 5/28/07 a trio of shady charecters kicked in my apartment door seeking a person who wasn't

there. When unable to wreak revenge on the unfortunate target of their agression, they grabbed the first

thing they saw of any value, which was a small camera/bike bag.

The bag contained my Crown graphic Special, which I had purchased NEW in its original boxes with all

documents and flash gun. I used it about thirty times. The shutter had been fired under 500 times.

The Graphic was Serial # 976983 & 8927062. One number is the lens and one the body, though I hadn't

written down which was which.

I expect these items will appear on Ebay SOON. The meter and holders I let go of, but I wan't that Graflex

back. If you folks are perusing any on-line vendors and come across the camera I describe, please ask

the seller for the S.N. of the item.

I still have the boxes and paperwork for this, my favorite user camera. That's where I got the S.N. because

the original vendor had sketched it on the ouside of the carton the boxes were in.

If you see a MINT Crown Graphic, please help it get home to he who loves it, as I'll never be able to

replace it- (remember, I'm its first owner. It wasn't used ever before me.)

Thank you all.

A.

Yea, I agree. the lens shouldn't even go onto the FTb when it's in 'A' setting, but if you

managed to get it to go it wouldn't work right. If it's a breech mount model or a bayonet

style may have something to do with how it mounts, but I think james explains it well. On

rare occasions my A-1 will misalign the aperture lever and give an error message in the VF.

the FTb has no such error indicator and if it were misaligned you'd never know without

looking in as you hit the shutter. good luck.

Should be 13.5min.

RE: http://www.digitaltruth.com/devchart.html

using digitaltruth as my source, I figure at a 1:1 dilution 11min. should give nice results,

agitate only on the minute two inversions. Try for roll #1 then the others if it works well.

I've always and always used amber glass. It's totally non reactive so it won't be affected by

tough caustics. In the case of developers I use distilled water to top off the neck of the

bottles.

With ID-11 for instance, an increase of 15% time per each roll done from a stock solution

is what they advise, I don't really think that's at all needed; maybe 5%. But I do increase it

about 10% to make up for the added dilution from the water I use.

Not even a bubble is left when I cap it off, and it lasts a lot longer than even the directions

say it will. Five to six months even.

Mind ID-11, a deep tank formula, is a special case. But I've had Microphen go over 18

months and still was good.

Drawbacks: The really nice amber bottles pharmacies used to have are now only available

from specialty lab suppliers. Pharmacies use plastic.

My 2 cents.

Congrat's, but I'm actually here with your reality check (sorry). There are no more "Famous"

photographers, really. (This is perhaps best posted in the philosophy forum, but:) If you feel

accomplishment that's what's important. Keep that Nikkormat going! It's like a press pass in

itself, people see it and take it seriously.