grain

So now there's nothing above 820nm. from any maker.

That was all that made it worth doing.

What a sad short-sighted waste.

I so hate E.K.

R.I.P.

Panatomic-X

Kodachrome 25

Verichrome Pan

Next:

The Tri-X 320 sheet?

Plus-X?

The great Yellow Father has abandoned us for pixels.

Cleave not to their ashes lest ye follow polaroid SX-70 users into oblivion.

It was two years (and a lot of film) before I took my first useful photograph.

No long winded answer. But: You'll have better luck the more you put the camera away and

pick up a sketch pad and draw regularly.<div></div>

The last braggart was looking for one in Kuala Lumpur Indonesia.

Fine, you're in Barcelona. Ok, we're jealous.

Call these guys:

Barcelona Photography

Calle Provenca 243 3-1

08008 Barcelona, Spain

687 510 684

Your frustration is showing.

There's a lot of us out here who are tough to read if you've not got a lot of experience.

But with very few exceptions we're all here to help one another. I myself have learned a

great deal from the old timers here. Ease up please and be as polite as you expect us all

to be.

Mr. Wilson.

I'm sure you'll get past this mistake. It is as some are saying, probably not salvageable.

From here all that I can advise is to learn from the mistake. Though some find it an

amateurish read, I recommend Michael Langsford's Darkroom Handbook published by

Knopf. Even if you don't have a darkroom it is good to know what's going on in there.

Good luck!

A

I once followed the strict demanding directions offered in a really involved KODAK

pamphlet about that subject. The result: Blocky way too contrasty and barely printable.

T-Max is a flawed product in my opinion, and I have much better experiences with much

less expensive products.

also D'Arches and Fabriano. Some of the larger stores will have a bargain corner where

dented or dingy sheets go to die. Perfect for coating and running through chemicals.

Cotton resume/typing paper for paper negs.

I've been printing cyanotypes through a good cotton fiber typing paper. Hard to find but it

works well and leaves not a lot of mottled texture.<div></div>

Thanks.

Yea, this was an effort to make my darkroom user friendly to my nostrils.

I have good ol' kodak hardening fix on hand, as well as ilford rapid. But as they decay they

stink.

I washed the heck out of it but still pink. I'll live.

It's the old neopan SS. Which I've rediscovered as a guilt-free alternative when shooting all

the time. ($2/roll)

I'll up the sulfite, and thank you gentlemen.

I was given a couple of 1lb. bottles of crystalline hypo (sodium thiosulfate) and tried to construct my

own fixer from it. I began with 250ml distilled water and just kept adding until it would no longer take

up into solution, then I added just a tsp. of sodium sulfite anhy. and brought the total to 500ml. (Yes, I

have no scale.)

It works well, and fairly fast clearing but leaves the unwanted magenta stain worse than anything I've

used. Any suggestions? Should I doctor it further or just live with it?

Thanks in advance to the old gangsters.

A.

Digi-who-ping?

What is it?

I live in Massachusetts now. Massachusetts is the only state in the union on a seacoast

where a person on foot is prohibited from walking below the high tide line if the abutters

say no trespassing. In all other states, whether they admit it or not (the rich try to keep

this hush-hush) it is lawful to access the water below the high tide line.

This coveting of a view is an aristocratic malady, like in-breeding. Every time I venture in

the publicly maintained roads of East Gloucester Ma. where newly arrived rich have

slummed it because they can't afford the Hamptons, I see the NO TRESPASSING / PRIVATE

BEACH signs they have ordered erected on the shoulder of public streets along the water.

I'm reminded of ol' Yosemite Sam as the desert sheik: "Oooh! Some Varmint's gone and

got Footy-Prints all over MY DESERT!".

Those who put a price on a view deserve as much respect as Bugs Bunny gave Sam.

An occasional firecracker cigar and a frying pan to the face.<div></div>

Another photographer I know is constantly on about how he can tweak the fineness of

his grain and enhance the sharpness of his lenses by exhausting this that or the other

technique. He gets so caught up in it that he misses the point: "It's the Image, Stupid!".

There is nothing lacking in the materials I have at my disposal. There's a century of R&D

in every box of paper and every roll of film I buy. Why should I waste my time trying to

best the efforts of long dead chemists?

Anyone here have a better cheaper developer than Rodinal? I keep Microphen and ID-11

around too just in case. Pretty much covers all bases and contingencies in my darkroom.

So my answer is: Be competent enough in your craft to pull off hat tricks like pushing to

6400 and locally bleaching prints, but don't fixate on it, go shooting!

I describe it as a constellation of elements coming into alignment with my lens.

Cheers, A.<div></div>

You Pass!

Having a sense of humor is #1 way to make useful contacts here.

Hope your trip was successful and uneventful. As in no muggings.

I actually did go on GoogleEarth and there was nothing like a darkroom anywhere near it

or closer to the West on the coast.

I'm pretty Euro-centric culturally. Offer a free week in Ireland and I'm there. They almost

speak the same language as I do. But if the place name sounds like an exotic food made

from endangered marsupials I'd rather not.

Hope the X-rays did less harm than usual to the film.

Cheers!

A.<div></div>

Sorry none of us responded. Both of our Ferrari's are in the shop (we hate that!) so we've

had to slum around in the Volvo Daddy lends us, and he's always on our backs to go talk to

his old friend at his bank, Greenberg or Bridge-span or something like that. We'll have to

cut this short: If were not seen in the front window of Espresso Royale in Newbury Street in

our Hobo-sheik before 10 our whole morning's shot!

Ta!

Late post:

I just developed my first 120 roll of it and it is in fact the Maco, not APX anything. APX

400 develops in ID-11 for 11 minutes, this needs only 9. Other clue: The film is shabbily

packaged and the film came loose from the spool towards the end of the roll and folded

in the holder, leaving a nice fog line through the best frame. It dries so curly that

nothing shy of a flatiron will straighten it out. The edges almost are touching, like a long

tube of film. Little wonder it's $3 per roll. If it were flat enough to print with I'd be fine

with it, good tones and sharp too. But for all the hassle- I bought 12 rolls and now have

11 more frustrating sessions ahead of me, it's back to HP5+ for this kid.

My cleanest AT-1 body which I was shooting a simple tripod mounted interior shot with, stopped. I

didn't have time to figure it out so I finished with my A1 and went home. When I opened her up,

thinking it was a battery dead, the battery tested fine. Then as I was messing with it trying to figure why

it wouldn't advance, the timer went off but it wasn't in the timer position. Then the wind lever freed up

and advanced, but it doesn't cock the shutter or advance anything. The last point is my biggest problem.

I really like this camera. It's spotless and has given much service. Is it dead for good? or have any of you

folks seen a fix for this? (I suspect a rewind release sticking.)

Thanks, A.

Hmm. Nope, none of that, and using Safari mostly, I have same issue with firefox though.

Nothing nefarious suspected, I just needed to make an order. Thanks all. A

The best solution I can think of is to remove every part of the lens and replace it with a

canon 28-85 lens. Barring that, it may be the mount on the body as Mark suggests. That's

an easy DIY.

Does anyone but me have trouble shopping with Freestyle on line?

I'm on the East coast and every time I log onto the site and attempt to go anywhere but the main page

to look at stuff it stops loading and times out. Is this just because I'm so far away or does their server

stink? Please try it out and let me know.

https://www.freestylephoto.biz/sc_main.php

Hello again. I'm too old to be asking dumb questions but here you go. I ran my first test roll through my

new (to me) Mamiya 645J. Looks good. Now I have read about the spacing issues it supposedly suffers.

Mine is perfectly even from frame to frame, but: I noticed the frame numbers on the rebates of the

HP5+ run to 16, but the camera takes 15. I understand it's just one frame, but the huge gaps between

frames, well over a quarter inch, make it obvious that it indeed could easily fit 16 on there. Is there a

tweak that will make it actually do so?

Regards, Frugal with Film in Gloucester (Ma).

Have gone 6400 with pleasing results, and really passable grain even from 35mm. In Neofin

Blue (Beutler) was really smooth at that E.I. but tend to use Microphen to push that far.<div></div>

would be Efke paper. I've been so pleased with it I just bought a bunch. Grade3 is best, not

the VC stuff. Scan in an 8X10 print and you'll see what it really can do. Have had no

complaints with using ID-11 (almost identical to D76)

For those saddled with this unfortunate abortion like myself, we already dumped the older software and

it has worked marginally well, but:

Now when I scan B&W film, even when I shut off the tricks it offers for "sharpening", it still does this

(see pic).

Any suggestions other than the obvious (replace it with a coolscan)?

Also seems to have an RGB registration problem with slides on the vertical axis. The unit has never been

dropped/mishandled at all. Very unhappy with it though, and if it doesn't start performing I may

cannibalize the glass for contact printing.

Que?