mendel_leisk

<p>Talk to adobe support. Have your registration info ready, though if it's misplaced maybe they can verify your purchase with some security questions. Then perhaps they can direct you, regarding registration info, download locations.</p> <p> </p>

<p>Check your install discs first, see how that goes. I see I have these files for install, from when I did electronic download. Also two pdf's (part one and part two) for registration. I would contact Adobe, see what they say. Good luck, hope it works out.</p> <p> </p><div></div>

<p>I rewind after shooting 35 frames. One solution.</p>

<p>Very cool. Can you give an idea of the scale of that, say measure of the film canister height?</p>

<p>I'd agree regarding the centre point focus; I appreciate there's advantages to multipoint focus, but the implementation has a way to go, at least for me. The main use I can see for multipoint is sports photography, anything with moving subjects where you don't have the luxury of prefocussing.</p> <p>Related: one thing I found very handy was remapping the depth-of-focus preview button to be on-the-fly switch over to servo focus.</p> <p>Having also gone from 5D to 5DIII, my main impression of the difference is the vast increase in menu complexity. With the 5D I pretty much could remember what was where. But with the 5DIII I need help from the manual, pretty much for everything.</p> <p>Sadly, my Canon DSLR's seem to be eclipsed by my cell phone these days, I'm embarrassed to say.</p>

<p>If the lens you're using on the crop body is capable of full frame use, you'll tend to have less light fall-off towards the edges, all things being equal. Basically because you've got a lot of unused image area, around the edges.</p>

<p>Frosty morning ivy.</p><div></div>

<p>I've had umpteen shipments from B&H, never anything like that. They're typically a box within a box, with plenty of plastic air pillows, and a copy of the invoice. I'm sure they'll sort you out when you contact them.</p> <p>Could someone have tampered with it during shipping, customs inspection or similar??</p>

<p>Considering your budget, I'd second Steve J Murray's posting, for both the scanner and the software. Do get the pro version of Vuescan, well except there goes the budget.</p>

<p>Get a run-of-the-mill flat bed scanner, <em>and</em>: Vuescan Pro.</p> <p>Vuescan User's Guide:<br /> http://www.hamrick.com/vuescan/html/vuesc.htm<br /> (In particular, read through Appendix A, the section "Using Raw Scan Files".)</p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks for that insight. Seems right angle rotations may or may not be lossless.</p>

<p>A little off-topic, but you can also do rotate operation on a jpeg without degrading it in any way. As long as it's a straight right-angle rotate, say 90 or 180 degrees. This MAY depend on the editing software.</p>

<p>Meant to say "shouldn't even offer standard..."</p>

<p>Frank, just to chime in: I think Vuescan should even offer standard edition. Pro is THE one to get, you're in for life.</p> <p>I believe raw file output is disabled in standard, too. That is a crucial feature for me. It allows you to scan once, then output finished jpegs from that file, different iterations, 'till the cows come home. You can even edit the raw file, ie: crop, clean up dust and scratches, what have you. It's a gamma 1.0 tiff.</p>

<p>Do you have an older version of Vuescan you can fall back to? I haven't been using Vuescan much of late, and have not been updating versions, but when I did I would always put the downloaded file in a folder with the version number, just in case bugs cropped up.</p> <p>I would reply to Ed that you've tried that, problem persists. He's good at looking into issues, might send you a beta to try.</p> <p>From what you say, and your experience I doubt it's this, but it's not due to Scan-From-Preview being ticked?</p>

<p>This might work for you: do a click at the beginning of the zone to be cloned, then shift-click at the end. This clone in a straight line between those two points.</p> <p>http://blogs.adobe.com/jkost/2010/09/painting-straight-lines.html</p> <p>BTW, this <em>is</em> Photoshop you're using?</p>

<p>Yeah, the color seems distracting, b/w conversion a good option. Don't want to trample on your efforts, but I prefer the pre-adjustment colours.</p>

<p>Yeah, good points.</p>

<p>I recall watching in one of the recent Olympics, the opening ceremony, athletes parading in. Virtually all of them had a smart phone, raised at arm's length, doing a selfie video. Unsettling.<br> Our grandkids birthdays now, are all recorded, the cake, the presents. I wonder idly if anyone will ever watch these records.<br> What were vices are now habits?</p>

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<p>What Matt said.</p>

<p>I have a Canon 24-70 f2.8 (first version), 24-105 f4and a 17-40 f4. Currently shooting (very occasionally) with a Canon 5DIII.</p> <p>The 24-70 unfortunately is just gathering dust. The 24-105 I use occasionally. The 17-40 is on the camera the most.</p> <p>But maybe that's just me.</p>

<p>If this is the original Minolta Scan Elite 5400, I doubt it would be the ScanHancer, since the scanner already has the Grain Dissolver. That name seems to infer software, but it is in fact a frosted glass (or plastic?) piece which swings into the light path, upstream of the film, to ((further) diffuse the light. The result is a scanner very good at ignoring slight scratches and defects in the film.</p> <p>With slides, I did try various Gepe glass slide mounts: glass one side, both sides, plain glass, anti Newton Ring glass, in attempts to flatten film to compensate for the scanners abysmally shallow depth of focus. Found they invariably reduced contrast and introduced Newton Rings (anyways), not effective.</p> <p>I settled on using a full frame tensioning slide mount: shucking my slides out of the current mounts, scanning them in the tensioning mount, then transferring them to new two piece Gepe mounts for archiving. The tensioning mount I used was Wessmount AHX500K.</p> <p>With these, the film was still no where near perfectly flat, but closer, enough that with careful manual focus on an off-centre point I could get reasonably uniform sharpness.</p>

<p>Just another thought: sometimes a change in terminology will help, both for web searches and in forum discussion. Consider, instead of "conversion", use the term "scanning". Whatever course you take, tread carefully with your first attempts. I've found it way too easy to start off full of confidence, invest a lot of time/effort, only to find you're doing something that really could be improved upon. So take it easy, try this, try that, keep researching. Again, would heartily recommend Vuescan, get the Pro version.</p> <p>Good luck with your efforts!</p>

<p>I went through that exercise, about a decade back, scanning black and white negative strips, then colour slides. I started in on the colour negatives, and sort of stalled, really need to get back to it.</p> <p>My first scanner was a Minolta Scan Dual II. Then I acquired a Minolta Scan Elite 5400 (gen 1). Finally I picked up a Nikon Coolscan V.</p> <p>The Dual II was actually quite good, except somewhat low resolution (2800 dpi), and lacked ICE (Sorry, can't recall what it stands for, but it's a hardware based dust and scratch cleaning software).</p> <p>The 5400 was really the pinnacle, scanning at 5400 dpi, with ICE, and Grain Dissolver (a frosted glass panel that could be rotated into the light path, to further diffuse/soften scratches and dust). It's plusses are it's abitlity to scan Kodachrome without artifacts, and it's wonderfully diffuse light source. It's downsides: quite slow (though I'm ok with that) and shallow depth of focus, the latter VERY frustrating.</p> <p>The Coolscan V scans at 4000 dpi, is sort of the little brother of the Coolscan 5000, similar but stripped down. It also has ICE, is quite quick. I found this scanner a good fit with my colour negative film. It's main downside for me: it has a very directional light source, seems to find EVERY scratch and dust mote.</p> <p>With the two Minolta scanners I used both the supplied software and Vuescan (do look up the latter). With the Nikon I used Vuescan exclusively, did not even bother with the supplied software.</p> <p>Besides scanning software, you will need software to post process the images. Photoshop is the best, will do everything need. You also need to consider file format: your inititial scan files are best saved with a minimum (or no) adjustments, in a lossless format. Finished images produced from these initial files would be more suited to jpeg format. Consideration must be made for storage, and back up.</p> <p>Barbara, to take this on can be very daunting. The learning curve is steep, and decent scanners are discontinued. What's left are often not dedicated film scanners with film transport, they are glorified flatbed scanners with adapters. You might want to try a scanning service first, see what they can do. Or find a mentor, someone who can get you started, perhaps has a scanner to lend.</p> <p> </p>