chito_baclig

I bought a used Rebel X and just finished testing. In my test I used

a 200 ISO and the Canon 28-135mm IS and all were posed. I got some

weird results, the blur on some of the shots were tremendous and

these were all posed shots (static position). One mistake I can think

of is my technique and I now believe this won't work with this IS

version. What I do is compose, then move and meter the eye and hold

the shutter release, then re-compose. This might be consider as

panning and I thought this was the cause of the violent movement

blurring. Anyone experience the same?

 

If my assesment is correct, is there a way to know if this lens will

blur the shot?

 

Thank you all

Really appreciate. Thank you (2x)

Greetings again, the manual does not mention any battery pack

accessory but is there one that is compatible to rebel x from the

newer rebel versions?

 

Thank you (always)

It was too late when I learned about Phillip's cleaning the

camera mirror (see below). I have a rebel x where the mirror looks

like there is

an ink blot. The blot is purple (a little in the red side). I tried

cleaning it with a solution but I was not able to remove all. Is there

a consequence to what I did? I will be testing it, but does the ink

shows up in the film? I do not see the ink in the viewfinder.

 

"by Phillip Greespun: ...Don't even think about cleaning the mirror in

your SLR. Maybe, just maybe, you could consider using a handheld

blower to move a few dust specs off, but canned air is too powerful.

Technicians clean mirrors with some kind of special viscous fluid and

will often do it for free at camera clinics run by shops or

conventions. Mirrors have very fragile surfaces and I wouldn't dream

of getting near them with a standard lens cleaning solution or cloth.

Remember: the dirt in your viewing system isn't going to show up on film."

 

 

Thank you

I would use the 75-300 at 200mm and bounce flash using a white board, AV mode and select the widest aperture. At 200mm, the flash is far enough to lessen harshness and not to mention that AV mode is better (imho) when doing a fill light.

 

Like what Puppy said, the ambient light from a window facing North is a very good source. If you do this, you might want to add a reflector. Let the light from the window shine half of the face, then move a little more so that the other half is lighted just a little bit. Then use a reflector to fill the darker side. I would use the 70-300 at 85-100mm and not use the flash. Tripod here is a must (recommended in all portraiture). If you still want to use the flash, you do not need the reflector and use AV mode.

 

But the best thing you can do use not use the flash. Buy a prime. As they said, 135mm is really good. Then the reflector and use the available light from the windows. YOu will not only learn to use the available light but you will be amase on the result.

 

PS: I am no expert on this. I am learning myself. I am on my fourth book on the art of low light photography. I am not doing well but the passion and result gets better as I try again.

ah, I like what Lee and Vance mentioned. Its cheap (worth more than the money) but reliable and 3 stops? Due to its cheap price (not to confuse with unusable)) belive me, I have used my feet to compose and in low light, this is great!

I had the same issue till I found out that I did not delete the existing setting. Deleted, then after calibrating 2x in low light and 2x in bright light, I find it usefull. Just be consistent on how you hold the camera, your eye position and pressure.

Hi Maria, elan.

just to re-emphasize the importance (I also learned the hard way), do not buy the kit. Buy the body only.

I made almost the same question a month ago and this forum was such a great help. I finally decided not to buy any of these lenses. Not because they are bad, but because I do not need any of them after evaluating my needs. But if I am to pick, from my telephoto experience, I suerly will pick the IS. Zoom from 200 to 300, IS is surely a great feature.

thank you all

Appreciate it. THank you all

Relatively new? Then this is a good camera to start with. If you do not plan to use as Pro, then this is a very good camera.

 

Plastic? yes but capable. I used a 70-200mm 4L which I thought will break it, no. Like they said, read and read, shoot and shoot and you will be comfortable.

 

Weakness for what you paid for and use? None right now. You will tell later once you gain experience.

 

Happy shooting.

Buy a BP200 which allows you to use 4 AA. Then punch a hole to insert 2 wires, +/-. This way you can add 4 more AA batteries, an equivalent of Power Booster E1 of Canon 1N. Will it work, I do not try.

Make sure that the wire is smaller in diameter. This way there is less resistance. Or maybe cut both ends, then attach longer wires, again with smaller diameter than the coiled cord.

Thank very much you for taking the time. I will surely take note of it, that is if I (again) failed to bring fast backup films.

"pulling and pushing are done during development,they apply to the whole roll"

 

That is good to know Steve. I thought it was possible to pull/push half the shot and the remaining the correct ISO. Should I then mark the film of the ISO speed pushed/pulled to?

 

Thanks,

 

jude

Thank you all. I now know that in cases that I forgot to bring a fast film, then I know that I can push or pull the ISO, and yes, not for shots that needs to be enlarged. And I should bring an 800 ISO just in case. Appreciate your time.

 

Jude

I was in a situation before with just a 200 ISO in a dim cathedral

and the result is just acceptable because of the flash (most with

black background). I did not know before that I could have increased

the ISO of say 800.

 

Question is the differnce in quality between an ISO 800 film and and

ISO 200 increased to 800?

 

Right now I have an EOS 3, 28-135 IS USM and 50mm 1.8.

I still have my rebel 2000 and 28-80mm. I bought a 50mm 1.8 for sharp imaged needs like portrait.

 

I have a new 28-135 USM IS on EOS 3, and if not for Steve's test (thanks Steve), I could have sold it. I still have not finish my own test.

 

I agree, stick with the 28-90 and buy the 50mm 1.8, used cost less the $50. You might also consider a telephoto.

I bought a good small book for Rebel 2000. Yes it does show. Few days in there should not drain it. I bought a battery pack and use rechargable batteries. This way I do not have to worry if it drains it or not. But it is always, remove the batteries for long storage.

 

jude

I own 3, reason? money and use. Spending on 1v is too much when I know that 3 is already more than what I need. The difference I invested on lens. From the Canon specs, 1v is one great camera and if money is not an issue, get the 1v and enjoy (like having a luxury car).

 

For other comparison stuffs, type 1v in the search field upper corner. You will find plenty of discussion re eos 3 and 1v. Hope those older post helps you.

I will try the soft focus and the reflector, thanks for the reminder. My main wedding event is March 2003, most of the time before that I will be assisting, which should be a great time to try things out and sharpen my skills both technical and eyes.

 

Elan is out of reach right now, but will consider. I still am towards selling the rebel kit while it is hot in the used market. Then ofcourse grab a cheaper/older EOS for backup. I see that the rebel G body is quite cheap at the moment. I do not mind getting more cheaper even if I am to use my existing EF lens manually.

 

I will not including the speedlite 420ex when I sell the rebel kit. I have been reading the 550ex wireless setups and hope this 420ex works as slave (manual said anyway). Hope I can use like a small studio setup, and outdoor/indoor light direction.

 

Regards to all,

jude

For what use and body?

I have the collar when using the rebel 2000. It does not balance if I tripod the body. Doing events like wedding, I do handheld it but at the end of the day and I have to start shooting it for portrait, 700gm feels like 2kg, then I need a tripod on the collar (well most of the time I use the tripod doing the portrait anyway so I need the collar).

 

But if you must, I have seen some in this forum that the black colored "B" fits. Go to a camera store and try the black collar, it is about $30 cheaper.

 

jude

I just came back from a wedding (few minutes ago), but as a video backup. I brought my EOS 3 and all. Guess what guys,gals: correct the shutter is like a freight train (louder than the rebel), the pro photo guy I am with with using a medium format (I will back him up next time) jokingly said that it is good, so that if I am not using a flash, the subject would know the picture was taken.

 

And guess again, at some of my test in the church, I really need more than 135mm and at the lower aperture, correct again, 2.8. I might consider a Tamron or Sigma. I wish I can afford the Canon 70-200 f2.8L. This makes me really think of selling my rebel 2000 gear and check out ebay for manual 35mm camera as backup.

 

I was not ableto use my 50mm 1.8. The church is really bright.

 

As for the "IS", it is amazing, 1/45 f3.5-5.6 (or f8) in programme mode is almost constant. I shot a few 1/30 5.6. As much as this is amazing, I am still planning to use a tripod in low light, that makes this "IS" unecessary. Like my previous 70-200mm f4L, I am again stuck with another amazing lens. But again need something else. Hmm, sell the IS lens and the rebel kit, I should be able to get the 28-70 mm 2.8L.

 

With my real test, research and this forum, I should be able to buy (or sell) smarter. Yap, smarter, not for the love of a "L" or "IS". No longer emotinally attached to my lens.

 

great post, kudos to all.

 

jude