chito_baclig

Hi, I am also an engineer and Computer programmer. But when I go into photography, which I also do on the side as a starting Pro, I take off my Engineer/Computer suit and put on my Photography suit. Honestly, I did and still tempted to go into mainly numbers game when I had the 28-80 that is also bundled into my rebel 2000. This is until I upgraded to EOS bundled with 28-135 IS and purchased a 70-200 2.8L. I started comparing my lenses quality results (ral pictures) and the 28-80 was never to be used again. Due to my type of photography (wedding and the likes), I honestly looked into some others comparison test not on the numbers but the quality test results. The example links below:

 

http://www.stevedunn.ca/photos/writings/zoomvsprime.html

 

http://photonotes.org/reviews/ef-lenses/

 

http://www.stevedunn.ca/photos/writings/eflenses.html

 

IMHO, since you are upgrading, you might want to go back to square one and make another list using quality result not based on the photodo numbers (test results from others helped me a lot too), use (to zoom or not to zoom) and budget as the criteria.

 

One bad experience I had was the budget tightness and hype on some lenses. I went ahead and bought the very good canon lens 70-200 4L. Then to my disgust, eventhough this is a very good lens, my first use of it was on a very dimly lit cathedral, if only I bought the 2.8L version since zoom is what I am looking for. Good thing, I also have my reliable 50mm 1.8 that is good on low light but not much on quality compared to the L zoom (comparing what I have).

 

Going back to your criteria, from your experience you seem need zoom. I will go forth either the Canon 55-200 4.5-5.6 USM and Canon 80-200 4.5-5.6. Then if you find that you still have something to spare in your wallet, pick Canon 28 2.8. In what basis I made these choices? Easy, there is not much to choose from your list. And the zooms you have do not differ in quality.

 

IMHO, I do not see you need to upgrade with the list you have. If ever, the Canon 28 2.8 is an additional lens.

My experience with 135 IS and rebel x when panning is great blur in some pictures, but never had a problem with EOS 3. I am not sure if this has something to do with Rebel X as an old body.

 

One thing also you need to take note of is the IS takes in effect after one second.

 

One test you may want to include is locking a focus, then while holding you re-frame. See how 28-135 IS reacts.

My last test shot on my new lens (no wife photo yet), the skin tone came out very red, as if there were veins. I would have started my wife's session but now I have to get another kind of film both BW and Color. Is there such a thing as "THE RIGHT FILM FOR THE EQUIPMENT"?

 

I am more concern not what my wife read and see in this forum, its you guys if I do not post any of the result, which I believe I must since I started this thread.

 

Whew, nice to see the smoke has cleared,

 

Regards to all.

I did consider ditching the 135 IS. You missed to mention that you have to avoid panning. I am really close but as others mentioned, I have to consider my needs. In people events such as weddings and the likes, concerts and street fairs, you can stand still and shoot with zoom. In this crowded places, for primes,you have to look behind you as you frame. For the primes, low light is the more obvious reason, next is depth of field imho, no need to mention the quality. This is not the zoom to compare with primes.

 

For my portraits, I also bought the 70-200mm 2.8L, with big time consideration of primes. But again, it still boils down to my needs. I also need to shoot from far in church altars. Find a good spot depending on the next action you anticipate and keep on shooting.

 

And to be honest, I still am considering replacing the 135 IS for primes since I already have the 50 1.8, for the love of the prime quality. (pardon repeating) But as I start to think for what use? Zoom lenses still is what I need. For group shots, table shots, I love this 135 IS since you are almost sure not to get hand motion blurs.

 

I might buy the 135 SF prime because SF filters are almost the price of this lens.

 

IMHO

 

Regards to all.

Forgot to give her age. She is 32 years young (she is young looking)

I hope I am not late here.

 

I am most interested in wedding photos too. I do a lot of assiting and few on my own. I just saw Marc's style and oh boy, I love it. If the client let me have my way, I also believe that a wedding must have those posed but I will have a lot of candid/unposed, that includes portrait shots of the bride and groom. I like to reveal the emotions. I would love to show as if you are telling a story from the bride's home, the church and then the reception, the first dance to the last, nothing posed. Oops, not to be carried away, some posed shots of the family and the couple ofcourse.

Greetings to all.

 

This is my first time to post here. I read a post that request for

baby photo example. This just gave me an idea. I also need some

example of a lady portait (Chinese) fair skin and dark hair. My wife

is gaining weight (5' 3" in height and 126 lbs)and she almost threw

my pictures of her that exagerated her face. I acknowlege my mistake

since I angled so that the small bulge on her cheek was exxagerated.

I see her always beutifull, that is why I did not notice.The tight

shots on 200mm also made it worse. She now had her hair done so that

the hair in front covers a little bit of her face, and now she ask

me to try again. "AND THIS TIME DO IT RIGHT" (qoute unquote).

 

Your advice too is very welcome. I am using an EOS 3 and Canon 70-

200mm 2.8L.

 

Thank you and regards to all.

 

Chito

Hi Aaron, check this thread I posted myself, about 30 thread below.

 

"Problem? Used 70-200mm 2.8L on EOS 3"

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=003jL5

 

Hope this helps. Regards.

Hi Ed, I would recommend to test on a half body portraits, outdoors with no direct/harsh light (preferable a north facing porch). Set the camera to Spot metering. Spot and lock (*), then focus at the eye. Make sure you have enough ambient light or use flash to fill. Experiment and right down your readings just in case you end up over or under exposed. If you do not yet trust your technique, asked someone who can shoot well. I have photog friends with more than 10 years of experience (minolta and nikon). When I was experimenting my techiniques, I asked them to shoot my camera using just the P mode and multi metering, then I do my own. I then compare the results both techincal and artistry.

 

With this simple test, you would know if it is you or the camera. In my 6 months experience......... ITS WAS ME, MY TECHNIQUE.

 

Regards

I have an EOS 3 bought in combo with 28-135 IS. The IS in this lens is the first generation and is different from the IS of 70-200 2.8L. EOS 3 does not have a Low light focusing. Its metering and 45 focusing point (if used correctly) is worth (more than IMHO) the price. As for the construction of 281-135 IS, its a push/pull technology. Its scares me to death when I see clouds of dust. If not for the IS which I used for group shots (mostly wedding), I would have replaced it with the 28-105 mm zoom. If only I can afford one more L at this zoom range. Another good thing about this 135 IS lens is I have very good shots at 1/15.

 

 

My latest story on my equipments for your INFO:

Yesterday I was in a NY Staten Island ferry. I removed the 28-135 IS and replaced with the regular 70-200mm 2.8L, to shoot the Liberty and boats. I would have preferred the 135 IS due to the ferry movement but I will be panning. The 70-200mm 2.8L at 1/250 and f16, the pictures are perfect (except for one where 1/250 is not enough to freeze the speed boat).

 

At ground zero, I used the 135 IS for architecture and people (no panning), almost dark, wonderfull pictures. I tested the 200mm wide open, shutter of 1/60 rest the lens unto something very stable, I got clearer (very crisps) pictures.

Wow, thats one heck of a SF filter. I hope there are other choices. Thanks.

With Canon 70-200mm 2.8L, any softfocus filter recommendation? I plan

to use this lens on portraits. I tried searching the forum and it

seems that this lens does not come up when softfocus is the topic. Is

there a reason why? Should I avoid this setup?

 

Thank you (again)

Looks like you can still return the rebel kit, THEN GO AND RETURN IT. Do not buy yet, sleep over it. No pan intended and I am speaking through my experience. I still wished I have learned of this board before buying my first SLR. If I can go back and correct it, with my tight budget, I would have just bought the body (most probably an Elan as an entry SLR) and the cheap 50mm 1.8. Shoot a lot then decide which lens I really need from what I have learned.

 

Regards.

Got the pictures of 2 rolls and they are sharp.

 

Concerning the contacts, this does not happen to my 28-135 IS. Is there a right time and way to clean the contacts? This seems to be the only logical reason why the lockup.

 

I only have one more body to test and this is an EOS Rebel X.

 

Thank you again to all.

Yes, this is the first time I have this kind of heavy lens. I had the 4L for about a week but with my rebel and I returned it due low light needs but I was surprise that the 2.8 L is not quite that well in low light either. AF is hunting for a while before it gets its focus.

 

Yes, the contact snaps well (click). I will be using a new set of fresh battery, will clean the lens contact then test one more roll.

 

Thank you all.

I checked the battery in my EOS and it is full. Thanks

Greetings to all.

 

An hour ago I just received my (new) used 70-200mm 2.8L. Immediately

did 24 rools with a flash on my EOS 3. Something happened. On the

10th roll, it just locked up. It just shows "bc". I turned off

everything and started again without any more incident. What could

have possibly happened? The seller informed me that this lens just

came back from Canon maintenance "Returned to Factory

Specifications". I can see that the glass is really clean,inside and

out.

 

Also, attaching the lens to the body, I feel little movement from the

lens as if the thread is loose, I mean, the lens does not seem to

lock in full. Can this be normal due to the lens heavy weight?

 

Thank you all.

The Confused Photographer's Guide to On-Camera Spotmetering

 

This book title (I have not seen it yet), made me smile to the point of laughing. It seems to describe where I am at this moment. I will surely consider to look into this book.

 

Thank you all.

I have several learning books on Photography, mostly about light and

composition. The reason that I avoid reading books on what exposure

was used is because either the Photograper used a handheld meter,

medium format and something else (other than my EOS 3). I know this

is not a main camera for a professional, but I am trying to find a

book about photography that also gives the exposure using an EOS

camera on certain situations like indoors/studio. I kept on practice

shooting but so far a lot of frustation whenever I encounter

difficult situtation. Me and my EOS 3 has not clicked well yet (do

not get me wrong, its me that has to blend in). Since I read a lot of

photo books, I might as well try and find a book that used my EOS 3

or the likes. Any chance you guys/gals here in this EOS forum has

written a book that I am looking for?

 

Thank you.

For a beginner, there are lot of things that I would like to try even if it might not be usefull (same thing in high school, I thought algebra was not until I became an engineer and a computer programmer but this is a different story), as part of the learning process. And in this case, I just got a really bargain very used still working Rebel X. My test shot with the 135 IS zoom lens was not normal compared to my EOS 3 shots. I am hoping it is just my technique so I can fix it.

 

Or maybe since the 28-135mm IS is newer than the Rebel X, is there a minor incompatibility? I will be sending an email to Canon and hope I can get an info here too which will be much appreciated. (if not in this thread, I might create a new question after my test)

 

And since I am still in the Rebel X testing process, I thought that this is the best time to test other things, like film swapping since I just read the leader function of EOS 3. Not to mention that I will only be developing one film instead of 2, which is just minor compare to what I will learn.

ohhhh. Okay, I think of not doing it anymore, but for my curiousity sake and for the time you all spent (appreciate it), I will go ahead and test, once. I will start with EOS 3 since it can rewind with the leader out (this will be my first time to use this function). I will also note how the rebel prewind. I will post the result. Thank you.

I have a Rebel X and an EOS 3. Say 24 exposure. I will shoot 12 from

one body. Take it out and shoot the remainder from another. Is this

possible?

 

Thanks,

Check out Steve's

 

http://www.stevedunn.ca/photos/writings/eflenses.html

Oops, made a reply before realising Bobs advice.

 

"A change in technique for you might to be to use the exposure lock

button on the back of the camera, as oppossed to holding down the shutter."

 

Yah! This technique is much better. I will skim through the manuals.

Apologies for not mentioning this earlier. I have tested this lens with my EOS 3 as slow as 1/15 and did not get this weird blurs. The slowest I did in my Rebel X test is 1/45.

 

But I do acknowledge as you have mentioned that my technique and hand holding also come into play. But this test, the number of blurred pictures is way above my normal (way high).

 

I am thinking of testing again but this time I have to note which one was composed-meter-recomposed and which ones were perfectly still.

 

(in case someone wonder why I bought a used Rebel X (got it for $70), just to have an EOS backup. I will be selling my new Rebel 2000)