chito_baclig

If you can afford Elan, go for it. IMHO, as said earlier, rebel ti is really not is THE upgrade from rebel 2000.

 

 

Question is: do you think you have outgrown the rebel 2000? That is, are you looking for more features, such as spot metering.

 

 

As for me, I have rebel 2000 and bought EOS 3, thats an upgrade. Now, if I can afford EOS 10D...

Good people, I just lost my EOS 3 manual and I forgot the steps to

bracket since I only read it before but never tried it... until now.

Also, do I have to press the shutter differently, ie, longer?

 

Thank you.

Let me repeat, my subject is (more than) 5 meters. That means, if I rotate the focusing ring to read 1 meter (making the subject out of focus), its should autofocus the subject, but for some reason the motor moves upto the 3 meter mark and stops.

 

Again, that is not true if I rotate the focusing ring to 10 meters (or infinity).

Actually it does focus. The only thing I must do is to rotate the focusing ring to about 10 meters if the subject is about 5 meters. This is the workaround.

I should have mentioned it. Yes I did check the focus limit switch.

Hi all,

 

RE: EOS 3, Canon 70-200 2.8L focusing problem. Here is the problem.

My subject is about 5 meters as indicated in the lens distance

settings. If I set the focusing ring to read 10 meters and press the

shutter halfway, it will focus. But if I set the focusing ring to 1

meter and press halfway, the lens motor seem to work but only get to

about 3 meters. If I keep pressing the shutter halfway, I sense that

the lens seem to be trying but still won't focus. Is there a way to

fix this? Or time to take it to Canon service center.

 

Regards to all.

Sharp image without an IS you said. Shoot with IS on and then compare the result using a loupe.

if money is not an issue, get the 1V.

Time for me to test. Thank you all.

Don't upgrade. Just don't unless you would want to do it professionally, JUST DON'T (hope I am not too late). If you want to challenge yourself, set it to TV, AV or better M mode. Save your money for Digital.

 

Just don't.

 

 

BUT... I did upgrade from Rebel 2000 to EOS 3 because I now do weddings and similar events once in a while.

 

Jude

opps, hope I am not late. PICK EOS 3 (used is an option). The next upgrade you be is EOS 3D (if there is one).

 

Jude

1.) I do not know but 2. I am well. Panning with IS ON is bad ... as they said already (turn it off when panning!). As for the tripod, Canon seem not to recommend it, but my EOS 3, this lens and a tripod blends well.

 

 

Jude

Hi Bill, you are right but I should have mentioned that this test is for a really large room (ballroom) where bounce is not applicable. But on the size of room you have mentioned, I am imagining what a great evenly spread light that would be!

 

Jude

Hyun,

 

Adding to this, I actually started with rebel 2000 and 420EX flash. You can do the following (while testing get a handy dandy notebook and pen).

 

1. Full sun, person under a tree, focus on the eye. Set to P with flash off and shoot. Then Turn the flash on then shoot. You may like the one with no flash.

 

2. Next,person directly under the sun. Again in P mode with no flash, focus one the eye and shoot. Then turn on the flash and shoot. This time you may like the one with the flash.

 

3. Sun behind the person. Meter or focus where its brightest on the hair (my point is to meter the bright light). Flash off and shoot. Then flash on and shoot. The flash ON (fill flash) may look better since the sun ray (halo effect) and the person's face is exposed well.

 

This is the best way in my experience when testing fill flash.

 

 

Enjoy,

 

Jude

I am actually going to do what you did. I just sold my 420Ex to buy myself a SIGMA flash to be a slave to the 550EX. And one thing I'll tell you that you did the right thing (wedding and an extra flash). I did a wedding this winter and in the first shot broke the 550EX hotshoe (slip in the snow) and my backup 420EX finish the event. Some came underexpose since I am so used to the 550EX power.

From Bill: "Stofen is only saying that the maximum distance of the flash coverage is reduced due to light losses because of the spreading and diffusion of the light."

 

With the lost of light, I am thinking that my subject indoor might end up with a really dark background (if not black). Hmm, I am wondering if ISO 400 and this setup will give me a great result.

 

Jude

Great. I am quite confident with my EOS 3 and 550EX combination, but it made me think if I can make it better with a diffuseer.

 

 

Okay, I'll do some testing, but again to be honest, I will bracket the flash at 1/4 increment to see the effect.

 

Thank you,

 

Jude

Please accept my apologies for not being clear. I am not sure what the Omni-Bounce meant by: "manufacturers indicated maximum distance being reduce by a factor of 2.5".

 

With this factor of 2.5 should I do flash exposure compensation? If so, with your experience, how many stops? I do plan to test and use flash bracketing to see the best flash exposure.

 

 

To be honest, this is just out of curiousity. I see other used a diffuser and instead of asking why, I'll just try it myself. I want to see the result with and without a diffuser. Hope to get some of your input so as to advance my test.

 

Thank you,

 

Jude

 

PS: sorry but I have a little story to share while I am writting this. I can't help but laugh: My 8 year old son asked his 9 year brother where is Asia while holding a globe. My older son answered "from North America keep going right you won' missed it.".

My setup is EOS 3, 550EX with Omni-Bounce diffuser. The diffuser

manual mentioned "there are no adjustments other than the

manufacturers indicated maximum distance being reduce by a factor of

2.5. The automation of your camera and the pre-flash will determine

that you have proper exposure". Without using the pre-flash, can I

use the flash bracketing instead?

 

Thanks,

 

Jude

Last year I picked the EOS 3 and have a spare to buy the 70-200L f4. I believe I made the right choice.

Wow this is an amazing info. Okay, I do have rechargable batteries and 2 chargers but it takes 12 hours to charge 4 batt. Its either I upgrade to another brand of rechargable batteries or an external source. And I need at least 16 batts for 8 36roll films. I did the radio shack thing before to my new 420ex, boom lights out and the irony is I am also an Electrical engineer (shame). Good thing Canon fixed it without question since it is still under warranty.

 

Thank you all.

Greetings all, I am about to buy my first battery pack for 550EX

flash. My search in this forum were all old.

 

 

Is this compatible with Quantum B 5, see link below. I already have

sent a question to the Quantum support and just waiting for an

answer. One question that is important to me is that do you

recommend third party battery packs?

 

 

http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?

op=details&sid=1046140945530502&sku=QTB5

Thanks, Julian and all. I never knew "modelling flash" until you mentioned it. I am at the office right now and don't have any manuals. I will surely look into this but if you find time, please kindly post additional information.

 

Regards to all.

Thats the beauty of digital. Thats is why I need to test before an actual application.

 

As for the 550ex manual, the setup is all 550EX. The 550 slaves can be set manually to achieve the desired zoom setting, easily changing the distance of the slave and subject depending on the zoom setting.

 

 

The 420ex is set to its widest 24mm. If the answer is that the slave 420EX does not follow the master zoom settings upon firing, then if the 420EX is the main light, it is stuck to the distance to illuminate the subject at 24mm, which eliminate its use as main light if I am to widen the scene.

 

 

Another question please since I am not using Pro digital, to lessen the number of film test: for 420ex at 24mm, slave, full body shot of 2 persons. How far should I set the flash?

Greetings to all. I have both the 550 and 420, and ESO 3. I would

like to play around the Master/Slave setup. My objective is to use

this as the main light in portrait shots at night both indoor and

outdoors. I have read through the older posts but I was not able to

get the settings I am about to test. Hope none one my questions is

just a repeat.

 

 

1.) The 420EX automatically set to 24mm only in ETTL and I cannot

chang manually. What if I use the 420 as my main light for

directional effect and the 550 disabled to fire. How far do I

position the 420 from the subject? Or does coevrage automatically

follows the master? ie, 550ex coverage set to 105mm, 420EX even if

set to 24, once it fires, it fires at 105mm?

 

2.) 550EX as master and main light. The coverage can only be set

manually. Is this correct? ie, if the lens is set to 135mm, I also

set the 550 to 135mm.

 

 

Appreciate your feedback.