bda

Full details in the FAQ <a href="http://www.photo.net/frequent-questions#upload_forum_images">here</a> Do not forget to enter a caption.

FWIW: Click <a href="http://www.computer-darkroom.com/piezo/piezo_1.htm">here</a> for "A comprehensive review discussing the features and potential qualities of the Piezography BW printing system. A must read for Professional and Amateur Photographers looking for a method for high quality black and white inkjet printing." (<a href="http://luminous-landscape.com/reviews/piezo.shtml">Michael Reichmann</a>)

Beau,

Would you share some tech details on how you use the LS50 to such nice results with B&W negs ? Do you use NikonScan or Vuescan ; multiple scan (2x,3x...); do you underdevelop as suggested above ; use GEM or other noise reduction sw ?

I am particularily interested in your answer as I am also a Tri-X user and I am not so satisfied by my scans with LS50+NS.

It may not be harmful to your scanner, but it is for the planet. Please, turn it off when not needed.

Have you tried using the GEM function (Digital ICE4 advanced)? I have found that it significantly reduces the visibility of grain and gives results very similar to what you get with a traditional darkroom process. I did not seem to me very usuful with colour negs until I tried it with B&W.

Ah ! You too... I recently ruined a very nice portrait with this very type of streak. The instructions specify that you should agitate very gently with both solutions (5s every mn). Definitely not light leak. This looks like the action of drops running down the film. I am wondering if it does not take place when you drain solution A and do not pour sol B fast enough. But I am only starting with Diafine and have little experience yet.

Let us see what experimented users have to say...

Bertrand

I could not find this question answered in the archives, so here is

it: I developped a roll of Tri X (new) in Xtol 1:1. Surprisingly, it

came out with a base fog stronger than usual, and also less purple

tint. Xtol was from a fresh mix made with demineralized water.

 

Any idea on what could be the cause of that base fog ?

Regards

Bertrand

In the train to Jodphur<div></div>

With a caption<div></div>

St Jean de Luz, France

Or by <a href=http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3849379405&category=30055>this one</a> on ebay.

Bertrand

You can find info <a href=http://www.nemeng.com/leica/008b.shtml>here</a>. Bertrand.

My problem was slightly different: ring was not loose, but it felt gritty at stop 2 and 2.8. I had the lens sent back to Leica as it was still under warranty, and they fixed it (in 5 weeks !). It's now smooth again. Rgds.

For what I need, I found out how to use it by myself. The manual would just make me feel safer, and might be helpful when I want to resell the unit. Thanks for your offer anyway. Rgds. Bertrand

Would anyone have a scanned version of the SF20 user guide to send by

email ? The thing seems nowhere to be found on the net. Regards.

Bertrand

I also use a laptop and have found that in order to evaluate the effect of sharpening, you need to zoom to 'actual pixel size'.

I am more than happy with my Focomat Ic, though I admit that thourough - and delicate - cleaning of the neg is a must. For anyone who is interested, I have a scanned version of the orignal user guide, which includes a description of the process for adjusting the 'AF' cam. Drop an email if you want a copy.

Thanks to everyone for their contributions. I now have a few theories to investigate:

 

Photoflo marks... : I do conclude the washing step with a rinse in distilled water with a few drops of Photoflo. The product may have concentrated or turned bad over the years (~12 yrs). I will try to rewash some negs with pure distilled water to see if the marks disapear.

 

Newton rings... : My enlarger is a Leitz Focomat Ic. The glass plate that presses the neg on the carrier is an Anti-Newton one. Though the marks do not look like the usual newton rings that you see when making contact prints, it should be fairly easy to verify this by moving the neg in the neg carrier and see if the marks move along or not.

 

alkaline/acid reticulation: I am using the Ilford stop bath solution. If none of the other speculations proves right, I'll try a higher dilution.

 

In any case, I'll keep you posted. Thanks.

 

Regards,

I have noticed strange & subtle patterns on my prints. They are most

noticeable in large mid-tone areas such as a blue sky. They look like

light fingerprints, marble patterns, worm tracks. They cannot be seen

on all prints which seems to rule out the enlarger as the cause. I

would rather suspect the film process. I use Xtol 1:1 with Kodak TMax

400 or Fuji Neopan 400, and perform the whole dvt process @ 21°C in a

small Job tank (250ml). Agitation is continuous during first 30s then

two inversions every 30s. I have read that reticulation can be caused

by temperature shock, but I am very careful about controling that

parameter. Can you think or anything else: dev ? stop bath ? fixer ?

paper ( using Tetenal baryt vario).

 

Thanks for your help.

I have recently purchased a M7 and have noticed the same thing. I decided not to worry about it for the same reasons that you mention. It is at close range that precise focus is important.

 

Thanks, Bertrand

I have got hold a densitometer that measures the reflectance of prints

and would like to use it to calibrate the dvt of my B&W negs. The

process I have in mind is the following:

 

1. Take pictures of a middle gray area/card in full daylight. Use the

camera meter and expose in 1-fstop steps from -4 to +4. Add one

unexposed shot.

 

2. Develop as usual

 

3. Expose each frame on grade 2 1/2. Exposure time is just what is

required to produce maximum black when exposing the base of the film.

 

Now the question is : what values should I read for each zone

considering that maximum black reads 1.9 and pure white is 0 ?

Any other suggestion ?

 

Thanks for a tip from an expert.

Regards

Bertrand

I have got hold a densitometer that measures the reflectance of prints

and would like to use it to calibrate the dvt of my B&W negs. The

process I have in mind is the following:

 

1. Take pictures of a middle gray area/card in full daylight. Use the

camera meter and expose in 1-fstop steps from -4 to +4. Add one

unexposed shot.

 

2. Develop as usual

 

3. Expose each frame on grade 2 1/2. Exposure time is just what is

required to produce maximum black when exposing the base of the film.

 

Now the question is : what values should I read for each zone

considering that maximum black reads 1.9 and pure white is 0 ?

Any other suggestion ?

 

Thanks for a tip from an expert.

Regards

Bertrand

I like it a lot. However, don't you think that the balance of the picture would benefit from being cropped more tightly on the subject ? I find this large void on the left a little disturbing.

 

Looking forward to seeing the rest of your work.

 

'La critique est aisée, mais l'art est difficile'.

I have recently purchased a second-hand Focomat Ic enlarger.

Unfortunately, it did not come with the user manual. If anyone here

has a copy to spare, I would be extremely grateful. Any suggestion on

how I could get it from other sources will be welcome.

 

Regards

 

Bertrand