flaviosganzerla
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Posts posted by flaviosganzerla
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Tom, is there a link to this article?
I use matrix on my F100 almost always (I have manual lenses too), and my Photography now is mostly B&W. But I know the situations when my meter fools me, then I use spot or CW.
Looks more like a 'problem' of style than any other thing.
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I have some difficult in finding film pictures too. Would be good if it was easier, anyone with any tips?
By the way, good portfolio Ian!
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Arnab,
Can you please tell us the light setup for the second picture?
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OT: Tommy, can you explain why one should meter before aplying tilt/shift movements? Thanks!
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Thanks!
Would be really good if people could post more tests like this one.
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The "test" I have done was very simple. I made some pictures using AF at the largest aperture to see if the focus was on the spot, and it was.
After that I haven�t worried anymore with the lens, only a little with the camera (to see if AF was calibrated), but without any apparent reason, my pictures were still in focus, it happened because I am a perfectionist.
It was a good test to see that everything was right too. I placed a tripod at the floor, put my watch at the table, focused at an edge of it at the largest aperture with a 105mm micro Nikon, but not in the center AF, at the right AF sensor of my camera (F100). When my eye found the focus, the camera confirmed that with the focus lock. So it looked like what I was seeing was what my camera was seeing too. Made the picture with the timer, developed the slide and then scanned at 3200 dpi to see if the focus was on that edge. And the answer was yes.
So I haven�t worried about calibration of AF, my technique, mirror, focus screen, camera, etc. since then.
Hope this helps!
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C,
A friend of mine once did it to MY GEAR, he manual focused my lens (that was on AF mode) with my F100. At that time I looked over and over, made some "test" and finally forgot it.
About noise, everytime I use my 70-300 it looks like it has problems, this happens because it is noisier than my other lenses. I need some minutes to forget it too. ;)
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I use too, when my meter shows weird readings.
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Kind of Off Topic...
Can someone say your impressions about 18-35, 18-55, 18-70 and 17-55mm lenses at the wide end performance? I am thinking about buying the 18-55mm to use only at 18mm because the 52mm filters I have, UV, Half-ND, polarizer and R72. Having to buy all those filters again for the 18-35 or 18-70 when I get my D70 will be a big problem. :(
Sorry for not answering your questions Mike.
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Richard,
Take a look at Velvia 100 and Provia 100. I like using Velvia at iso 125 and Provia at 160. This is for daylight exposure with strong light.
It works very well, at least here in Brazil. Too bad my portfolio has few color pictures yet, but you can take a look there.
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Take a look at the 50mm f/1.2 AIS. There are some baby pictures taken with this lens in my portfolio.
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All of them!
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I have 2 rolls of Scala too and am planning to develop them in Rodinal, unfortunately I don�t have $ to send them to DR5. Do a search here in photo.net and you will find some answers. But I am, as you, waiting for some different answers (and samples).
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Etan,
Try some flower with a tripod at the maximum aperture. ;)
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There is nothing wrong about what you have done.
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Arnab, I think it is aberration. I saw some pictures from this lens against the 105mm micro and it performed very well (better in the corners and "worst" in the center at all apertures, if I rememeber well). I have a Vivitar, would like to see how the 3 compare but haven�t seen any side by side tests with the later yet...
I am waiting for your full test.
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Am I seeing chromatic aberration on the wheel?
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With a f/1.2 lens it is very useful sometimes.
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Sorry, I will send to your e-mail, can�t believe I can�t post some pictures here, it would be quite useful for some people!
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Here is a color picture, scanned with Minolta IV without any correction (except color):
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I like and hate my Tokina 17mm f/3.5 RMC.
Answering your questions:
- Don�t know about ATX AF optical formula, but would like to know too.
- Mine doesn�t have click stops at f/4 and f/4.5, they are full f/3.5 - f/5.6 - f/8 - f/11 - f/16.
- Don�t know about Minolta and Tamron 17mm.
- The jump from 17mm to 28mm (my other lens) is big!
About my toughts... At f/3.5 the lens is very sharp on the center and not so much on corners, and has light fall off. At f/5.6 it becomes better, at f/8 even better. At f/11 or f/16 I haven�t tested yet, my sample has some problems, at f/11 it underexposes -0.3EV and about f/16 -0.7EV. So I avoid those apertures.
Have I said at f/3.5 it is more like a f/4? Compared side by side with my Nikon 28mm with slide film.
At very far corners there is some chromatic aberration in all apertures. The lens has barrel distortion (the worst problem I found), and it flares a bit with sun in the corners. What I really like about this lens is the angle of view and the sharpness. Tomorrow will try to post some samples/crops to show what I am talking about.
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Bob said: "One photo put up here, ended up on a movie theatre wall in an ad in Bulgaria if I recall right."
Can someone link the whole history to me!?
Sorry for not helping you Durr.
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I am planning to buy a D50 camera with the kit lens and yet haven�t
find if it would be a good camera for IR like the D70 (wich I have
played with), does someone have some samples to show?
My main camera is a F100, do you think one can live without the front
comand dial? It may look like a stupid question but this thing worries
me a little bit.
The idea of having a D50 is to make the jump to digital kind of
easy/slow without spending too much $$$ on it yet, and in a few months
replace it with a d200 and leave it as backup (and for IR
photography). And to have time to change some lenses to fit both
digital and film. Do you have any toughts on this? Anyone in the same
ship?
Thanks for your comments!
PS: If you want to look at my portfolio... feel free! ;)
Fast Kodak thermographic film, the advertisement and the status
in Black & White Practice
Posted