klix

I think everyone who's posted so far is jumping the gun with their recommendations. First of all, you say that you have Nikon lenses, and are good with a manual camera... Does that mean your lenses are manual focus? If so, are they Non-AI or AI/AIS? If the former, then you are out of luck snince they won't mount on any Nikon DSLA without risk to the DSLR mount. If your lenses are the latter, then they will mount, but NOT meter with D40-50-70-80-100 bodies. They will mount and meter with the D200 and the D1 and D2 class of bodies.

 

To be honest, for what you want, you should probably consider a point & shoot, like a Canon A640 (or some other Canon A-series camera).

Since you'll have a D200, you should also consider AI/AIS lenses.

 

55mm to 60mm - the obvious first choice is the 60mm/2.8. However, there are some very good 55mm manual focus lenses (focusing to 1:1 with a PK-13 or equivalent extension tube). Since you're looking for something that will do double duty as a portrait lens, check out the 55mm/2.8 AIS.

 

If later on, you decide to go with something longer:

 

90mm to 105mm - Tokina 90mm, Tamron 90mm, Kiron 105mm, Nikon 105mm VR, Nikon 105mm/4 (with PN-11)

 

200mm - there can be only one - 200mm/4 AFD

I'd say go to dpreview.com, and check out the buying guide. Check the features you want in a camera, then pick one. If your budget is for photo equipment ONLY (i.e., your computer has enough "juice" for post-processing, and you have the software you need), then you should have enough money for a high end p&s or an entry level DSLR.

I had an 18-200mm for a couple of months, then sold it.

 

I use my 17-35mm and 70-200mm most of the time, and decided that I preferred those two lenses to any all-in-one lens.

I think most/all people can get by with a D200. Having said that, if at least 80% of your photography is sports, wouldn't you want the fastest AF module? You original post says "Price not being an option" but your subsequent post factors in the D2Xs' price tag? Which is it?

 

The ultimate question is: for the same price, as a sports photographer, would you take the D200 over the D2Xs? Not too many people would. Now if you factor in the cost, then it becomes a personal question, depending on your personal budget.

 

I have a D200, and I know there are circumstances (e.g., shooting a rodeo) when I would have wanted the better AF module. But I don't shoot sports all that much, so when it comes to a second body, my decision was a little easier.

 

KL

What you would do may, and probably is, different than what I would do.

 

First of all, I wouldn't be going out to make a name for myself -- not my primary intent.

 

For me, I know that there are Catholic missionaries that do good work in many parts of the world. I would hook up with them and spend a few months helping them AND taking photos. I would then self-publish, then go from church to church and diocese to diocese to sell the book, then donate the proceeds to the missionaries and the people they serve.

 

KL

Seems like a good set up, especially since you can borrow a tele for those times that you need it.

 

The one switch I would think about would be to swap out the 18-70mm for a 24-85mm/AFS.

 

If you can rent/borrow a 10.5mm fisheye, that would be a great lens to have on your trip.

I used to have the Sigma 10-20mm, and now have the Nikon 12-24mm. What you have to ask yourself are:

 

1) There is a noticeable difference between 10mm and 12mm. Will you be using the extra 2mm quite a bit? If YES, then get the Sigma.

 

2) If #1 = NO, is the Nikon within your budget? If YES, get the Nikon.

 

3) If #2 = NO, get the Tokina.

I forgot to mention im a twin which could be a part of it i guess.

 

Well, duh... a HUGE part of your identity stems from being a twin. So, the easiest, almost cliched theme would be to take pictures of a pair of things:

 

- A pair of socks - can be identical pair - brand new or fresh from the laundry, or one sock can be new, the other torn.

 

- An apple and orange -- an unmatched pair.

 

These and any others would generate interesting talking points -- especially coming from the perspective of a twin.

 

KL

If you have to pick ONE prime to go out...

 

I might as well just stay in.

<i>As this photo will attest, use a tripod! - Michael </i>

<p><p>

Actually, for the Beltane Festival, a tripod is the last thing you'll need. There will be 10,000 to 15,000 people at the festival, and to be able to catch enough of the festival's "flavors" (or "flavours") you will need to move around fairly quickly.

<p><p>

It's a big party with A LOT of people. I would suggest using flash, and no more than 2 lenses. I shoot Nikon, and if I were doing this, my 2 lenses would be a 12-24mm and a 28-70mm/2.8 AFS.

<p><p>

For interesting effects, drag your shutter for some images.

Icefields Parkway in the Canadian Rockies.

My wife and I will have a rental car and plan to take day trips from

Anchorage. However, we're open to overnight trips as well.

 

We don't really want an overly-hectic trip, so we may have to prioritize from

among many fantastic places (VERY DIFFICULT). So, that's where I need help --

If we have 8 full days, where should we go / what should we see?

 

How's this list look? Any glaring misses?

 

1) Denali - 2 days

 

2) State Fair - 1 day

 

3) Air taxi to Katmai and back - 1 day

 

4) Seward Highway / Kenai Fjord Nat'l Park / Exit Glacier - 1 day

 

5) Turnagain Arm drive - 1 day

 

6) In and around Anchorage - 2 days

 

Photo interests - landscape, larger wildlife, local scenes/events, macros

 

I'll have a pair of Nikon D200's, and lenses from 10.5mm fisheye and 12-24mm at

the widest, and 300mm + 1.4x teleconverter at the longest, with full covergae

in between, as well as macro lenses.

 

Oh, and yes, I also have an INCREDIBLY UNDERSTANDING wife.

 

Thanks,

 

KL

Used to have a Sigma 10-20mm; now have a Nikon 12-24mm.

 

Yes there is a big difference betweem 10 and 12mm; however, the barrel distortion at 10mm is so extreme that it was almost cartoonish, and required a lot of PS work.

 

At the same focal lengths, the Nikon's IQ is just in a different league.

 

You ALREADY HAVE the Nikon, so, all you really need is to add the 50mm. Are you saying you can't come up with $100?

<i>Where does Nikon go ?</i>

<p><p>

Well, this year Nikon goes to Alaska and to Chile; next year, to China and to Jerusalem.

<p><p>

But most of the time Nikon stays in Southern California.

<p><p>

Where does Nikon go for you?

I have NEVER met anyone who became interested in macro, tried it out adn then became DISinterested. It's just one of those things that you "gotta do." It's an addiction.

 

so, on that note, get the BEST to start out with -- the Nikon 200/4 AFD.

Judging by your gallery, you really don't exactly need blazing speed from a CF card. I'd recommend a plain old BLUE Sandisk CF card.

Two bags - a backpack and a beltpack.

 

When en route, stuff your beltpack in with your checked-in luggage, and put everything in your backpack. When you get there, put your most used stuff in the beltpack, and leave the heavier stuff in the backpack -- which you can leave in your room if you don't need everything.

 

Or, if you can spare $279 for a bag, look at the Thinktank Rotation 360.

A very thin extension ring on a wide angle lens?

 

Niikon has a K1 ring. Don't know about Canon.

Here's the skinny on Nikon Film SLR's...

 

If you have $$$$ --> F6

 

If you don't have $$$$ and don't mind the bulk and weight --> F5

 

If you're a "manual focus or die" shooter --> F3

 

For everything else, there's Mastercard,... I mean, F100

I have the Slingshot 200, and while it is great for a 1 body-1 lens setup, it's kind of a PITA to pull out a second lens, and an even bigger PITA to try to change lenses on the fly. A shoulder bag works much better for that.

 

I've resisted the Slingshot 300, since, IMO, if you carry that much equipment to load up one of those, you should really be using a backpack.

 

And again, IMO, the best solution (in my case) is to have two bags - a backpack (ease of transport) AND a beltpack (accessibility).

 

To that end, the Thinktank Rotation 360 seems like THE perfect bag (except for the price).

I'm not a Canon guy, but if your equipment allows it... for some (not all) shots, using rear sync flash and dragging your shutter produces some interesting images.

<i>Brad the owner is very honest and will not play games with USA vs Grey -- Roy.</i>

<p><p>

First of all, USA vs. Gray does NOT have anything to do with (dis)honesty. USA and gray are both legal and both perfectly legitimate and usable. In fact, in most, if not all cases, they ARE the same physical product, probably coming off the same assembly line. In the Nikon world, at least, the only difference is warranty coverage. Again, I don't know if Fuji's warranty treats USA vs. gray market products differently.

<p><p>

Again, agreed the Berger Bros. is a legit store.

<p><p>

And again(?!), what I'm saying is that AFAIK, at least 5 other online stores I've checked (B&H, Adorama, etc...) have not YET received USA models, and what have been selling are gray market. So, unless the sale people at ALL 5 stores have been yanking my chain, USA models does not seem readily available. Maybe Berger Bros. has its own source for USA models not available to B&H or ADorama or anyone else.

Is there a ceiling to the gift-giver's generosity?

 

If you want a wide angle and macro, the BEST would be a 12-24mm and a 200/4 Micro AFD.

 

Total cost for both would be a little north of $2000.

Agreed that Berger Bros. is a reputable place. Having said that, however, did you ask them if the S5 you're getting is a USA model?

 

My understanding is that the stock that are clearing shelves quickly in the US are **imports** i.e., gray market. -- I believe this is the case at B&H and the other **go to** online stores.

 

I have no idea if Fuji's warranty policy is anything like Nikon's; but if it is, I hope nothng goes wrong with your S5.

 

KL