david_carper

You should leave a small amount of air in the tank. This way, the

developer can move when you agitate; if the tank is full, there will

be very little movement of the developer, which can lead to agitation

related problems.

<p>

The easy way to do this is to tilt the tank when filling. When the

developer is overflowing while tilted, stop pouring, then turn the

tank upright. This will leave just enough air for agitation, without

having to worry if the reel is totally covered.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

ILFOTEC DD will give pretty much normal film speeds. It is an all

purpose developer for use in dip & dunk machines.

<p>

ILFOTEC DD-X is a similar developer, but because it is for one-shot

use, it is a little more active. It will tend to give a slight

increase in film speed, usually about 1/3 stop.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

ILFORD SFX film, because it is sensitive only to about 780nm, can be

handled in the same way as regular black and white films.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

Tri-X processed in PERCEPTOL at a normal contrast will give a film

speed of around 250-320. In order to get a film speed of 400, you

will need to develop the film to a higher than normal contrast. It

will give you nice fine-grained results, but you will probably end up

printing the negs about one half to on grade lower than normal.

<p>

Since you shot the film at 400, I would suggest sticking with a

normal developer, such as ILFORD ID-11 or Kodak's D-76.

<p>

For the film shot at 800, MICROPHEN would be an excellent choice of

developer.

<p>

Of course, next time try ILFORD HP5+ instead of the Tri-X. ;-)

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

"By the way, any feedback from Ilford on Delta 400 in 4x5?"

<p>

Nothing yet, but I have passed along all requests to the appropriate

people. I have doubts that it will change anything, but we can keep

our fingers crossed.

<p>

David Carper

I'm glad to know that my efforts are appreciated. I try to keep up

with this board, but don't always succeed, so if you have a question

for ILFORD, send your inquires to:

us-techsupport@ilford.com

<p>

If you want to follow up something already posted here, you can send

it directly to me; david.carper@ilford.com

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

It is unusual for XP2 Super to be too contrasty. It will generally

require about a 1/2 grade more contrast when printing compared to

other films.

The possibilities are that your film is fine; but the prints are

printed poorly. If your prints are made on color paper (a very common

procedure), this is quite likely. Try printing the negatives on true

black and white paper, and you should get very good results. Judging

the negatives without printing is difficult; XP2 Super negatives look

different from traditional films.

<p>

OTOH, if the negatives are difficult to print on real black and white

paper, (requiring a grade lower than 2), I would say that you need a

different lab. (This is of course assuming that you were shooting in

a normal situation. If it was extreme constrast, there is probably no

other fault).

<p>

As for shooting the film at 320, this is fine, and should result in

additional shadow detail and finer 'grain'. There should be no

modification in the processing.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

Anytime you are 'pushing' a film, you are going to increase the

contrast. However, this also does give you an apparent increase in

the film speed.

MICROPHEN gives a true boost of film speed without the contrast

increase (although it is only about 1/3 stop), which makes it ideal

for push processing (you will still get some contrast increase).

Other developers which will work well for developing these films

include ILFOTEC DD-X, T-Max, Xtol, and Accufine.

For the ILFORD films, you can find development times for all of these

developers in the fact sheets on the web site at:

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

The Pan 100 and Pan 400 films are distributed in areas of the world

where ILFORD does not have a corporate presence. They are based on

FP4+ and HP5+ technology, but are produced to lower specifications

and tolorances. While the quality is acceptable, these films are

lower in quality than other ILFORD films.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

While I am not holding my breath, I have forwarded all comments to

the appropriate people at ILFORD. Thank you for the interest.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

(Yes, I would love to see it too!)

Actually, Microdol-X is not similar to MICROPHEN at all; it is very

different, and more like PERCEPTOL. It gives a speed lose, and is not

very suitable for push processing.

<p>

As far as I know, Kodak does not have any developers similar to

MICROPHEN or Accufine.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

ILFORD XP2 Super can be exposed at various EIs. Obviously, there will

be a change in the quality of the image produced. Shooting at EIs

over 400 (such as 800-1600) will produce images that are somewhat

grainy, an attribute not normally associated with XP2. Rating the

film in the range of 250-400 will give tight grain, with overall good

tonality. Rating the film lower, 100-200, will give even finer grain.

Tonality is only slightly affected, with the shadows gaining detail

and the highlights getting slightly compressed. These pictures

require longer exposures when printing, which can cause color shifts

if printing on color paper, but the results are outstanding.

So yes, XP2 Super can be rated at various EIs in the same roll,

giving high quality results, but the results will vary to some degree.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

There should be no problem with forced drying. As others have stated,

don't turn the heat up too high; temperatures around 100-110°F should

dry the film suitably. Higher, and you run the risk of differential

drying, which can result in a density shift in the center of the film.

<p>

Just to clear up some confusion, very few films are coated on

polyester; most use a form of acetate. But all modern films are

robust enough to withstand forced drying. Just make sure the intake

is filtered so that you don't blow dust on the film.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

In the early days of manufactured products, quality was often

directly related to silver content, at least in paper. Today,

however, there are many more variables to consider. Almost all paper

produced today has less silver than paper produced in the 1950s, yet

todays paper will give you a higher D-max.

<p>

IMO, silver content is a non-issue.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

I would guess that you are using the 120 version of the Delta 3200.

Unlike most 120 films, the Delta 3200 has a base fog similar to that

of 35mm.

<p>

The 35mm version is still a little more fog than most other 35mm

films, but not enough that most people notice it.

For both formats, the base + fog for fresh film will run in the range

of 0.38-0.45.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

Unless your water is very hard, it will have little or no effect with

most photo chemicals. Most developer, fixers, etc., contain

sequestering agents, which lock up the mineral content, keeping it

from affecting the active components.

Toners are often very affected by water hardness; here it pays to use

distilled water.

Also, if you have high mineral content, it is a good idea to make

your final wash a rinse in bottled or distilled water.

<p>

Don't try boiling water. That will actually make it harder, not

softer, because you boil away the water, but not the minerals.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

I have the 820, not the 810, so I can only help with the general

questions.

<p>

Although a real calibration plague would be best, you can probably

get by with a home made calibration standard. You will need a white

patch, and a dark grey (almost black) patch, which you will then need

to read on another calibrated densitometer. The dark patch should be

in the range of 1.80.

<p>

A transmission patch would be a little harder to make, and I can't

locate one to see what typical values are used.

<p>

Visual will give you the reading for black and white (at least I

think that is correct).

<p>

HD-LD is useful for plotting contrast; it takes two readings, and

gives you the difference. It is useful for plotting professional

control strips (where this is one of the values plotted), but for

your use, I don't think you will need to use it. Just write down the

readings you get, and do any calculations needed.

<p>

Good Luck,

David Carper

ILFORD Multigrade fixer is suitable for using with film or paper. For

film, it is recommended to dilute 1+4, and fix for 2-4 minutes (3-5

minutes for Delta or T-Max films). In other words, use it just like

Universal Rapid Fixer.

<p>

Multigrade fixer is not compatible with a hardener, but as others

have stated, you don't need one anyway.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

To the first part of this discussion, 1+0 means using the stock

solution; 1+1 means 1 part stock, 1 part water.

<p>

In regards to ID-11 vs. D-76, the published formulas are identical,

but neither Kodak nor ILFORD produces a product exactly like the

published formual. Both commercial products have additional buffers

and preservatives. In some films, they will produce slightly

different results. Sometimes, the differences are enough that ILFORD

ends up with different recommendations for the two developers, but

because of rounding, the difference may not be as much as it appears.

<p>

In practical applications, it is safe to use the published time for

ID-11 with D-76, and vice versa. If you are doing precise work, you

will need to pick one developer and stick with it.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

ILFORD Multigrade fixer can be used to fix any normal black and white

film, including SFX. Use it 1+4; 2-4 minutes for conventional films

(including SFX), 3-5 minutes for modern technology films (Delta, T-

Max).

<p>

ILFORD Multigrade fixer is not compatible with hardener.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

ILFORD Universal Film Developer is now sold under the name ILFOSOL S,

at least in the US. I'm not sure about the rest of the world, but if

you have a bottle of Universal Film Developer, I would be very

suspicious about its age. Obviously, if you have ILFORD Universal

Paper Developer, I don't recommend using it for film at all.

<p>

The recommended time for Neopan 400 in ILFOSOL S is 6.5 minutes, at

68°F(20°C)

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

I have just gotten some new news regarding X-ray equipment in Reagan

National Airport. Previous to the 9-11 incedent, only some checked

luggage was being x-rayed with the CTX5000 series machines. Now,

every single piece of checked luggage is being scanned. So even if

you have been lucky in the past with putting film in checked luggage,

chances are that now you would run into problems.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

Obviously, I can't speak for Xtol, but in general, you should never

freeze photographic chemicals. First of all, even refrigerating them

can cause components to fall out of solution. These may or may not

redisolve when warmed up. Also, since the makeup of the solution

changes, the solution may actually age faster if the preservatives

are knocked out of solution.

Secondly, unless you have a freezer dedicated to photographic use,

you run the risk of contamination. Remember that when liquid freezes,

it expands, which can lead to ruptured or leaking bottles.

<p>

A better solution is to get multiple brown glass bottles, and filling

each. The aging will be minimized until you open the bottle.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

The shelf life of stop bath is indefinite. As long as it has not

turned purple, it is still good.

<p>

As for the tutorials, go to

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/bw.html

and download the .pdf files for the RC and FB versions of Multigrade

paper. There are pretty good instructions there.

<p>

Currently, there is not a fact sheet for the chemicals posted on the

web. The version that was there was getting out of date, so we have

removed it, and hope to have an updated version posted shortly.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

Jeff and others have given very good explanations, but I'll add a

little bit also.

<p>

I can't speak for other manufacturers, but at ILFORD we run

development tests to give a Gbar of 0.62 (Gbar is a slope

measurement, similar to but different from Contrast Index. The

methods are different enough that there is no conversion method).

This same contrast ratio is used for all developers, and the time

that gives this contrast is what is published, rounded to the nearest

15 seconds.

The testing used for developing times is not connected with the ISO

testing for film speed. ISO measurements use exposures made by

calibrated machines, and processed in very exacting conditions. These

exposures and processing conditions bear little resemblance to most

photographic situations; it is simply a standard that is easily

replicated in the laboratory, regardless of where you are. ISO speeds

of different brands of film are directly comparable, but only as far

as the ISO standard goes. For your particular shooting style

(including subjects, lighting conditions, and equipment), you may see

variations between two different films having the same ISO speed

rating.

<p>

On developing, there are a large number of variables. Different

people will not only have different techniques, but also different

ideas of what constitutes a "perfect" negative. Added to uncalibrated

thermometers, graduates, etc., this can lead to vastly different

optimal times.

Quite often, people will comment to me about our developing times.

Most of these people say that our times are "right own", and say they

are better than the numbers other companies publish. But other

customers will complain, saying that our times are too short or too

long. I would guess that people vary as much as -30% to +100% from

our published times.

<p>

So the bottom line is that published numbers are good to use for

starting points for your testing. The good news is that as long as

you stick with one manufacture's numbers, the difference will

probably remain roughly constant.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service