david_carper

Reticulation is certainly a possibility, although I can't say that I've ever seen it in XP2 (probably because most C-41 lines are kept at a pretty level temperature). I would be glad to look at it to diagnose the problem.

E-mail me at david.carper@ilford.com if you would like for me to examine it.

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

I would certainly be glad to look at the film if you like, although I doubt from your description that anything can be done to fix it. You can send it to:

ILFORD Imaging

W. 70 Century Rd.

Paramus, NJ 07652

Attn.: David Carper

Be sure to include any information you can regarding its processing, as well as the batch number of the film if you have it. Also include your address, so that I can send it back to you.

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

As you are well aware, personal testing is the best way to determine, but based on the ILFORD recommended times, I would suggest you try 7 1/2 minutes at 68°, using a pre-wet before processing (as recommended by JOBO). If you prefer to work at 75°, you should use about 5 1/2 minutes.

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

Just a note to add to Jon's response:

The ILFORD method of washing (using only water; no wash aid) will only work if you do not use a hardening fixer. Use of a hardener will make the fixer much more difficult to remove. Since with most films, the hardener provides little benefit (the films are pre-hardened during manufacture), ILFORD does not recommend the use of a hardener, to allow for easier washing.

All ILFORD fixers are supplied without hardener. If you are using Kodak's Rapid Fixer, the Part 'B' is the hardener; don't use the part 'B' if you wish to keep washing times down.

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

ILFORD makes a film called ORTHO Plus. It is a continuous tone film that gives normal contrast if developed in standard film developers, or high contrast in paper or other developers. It is available in 4x5, 8x10, and 10x12" sizes. It is not widely stocked by dealers, but any dealer should be able to order it for you.

For more information, check out the fact sheet at:

http://www.ilford.com/html/us_english/pdf/ortho_plus.pdf

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

XP-2 Super can be processed in E-6 to give slides. You will either need to overexpose the film, or have it pushed when processed. I think that for normal processing, you want an EI of about 50-64, but you should test before you shoot a lot.

Since this film is not designed for slides, the base color is not completely clear. Also, future changes in the film may change the E-6 results.

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

Although there is a lot of good stuff already posted, I'll chip in with a little bit. The ISO standard is a laboratory test; it doesn't even involve a camera. The developer is unlike any standard developer (and from what I have heard, you would never want to use it, anyway). The lab test does not always apply to photographing in the real world.

The standard was changed in the late 60's (I think), which resulted in all films being doubled in speed overnight. It wasn't a plot by any one manufacturer, but rather a change by the standards commitee. I have no idea why.

You may see differences in speed due to the developer you use, your agitation method, and also the color sensitivity of the film. Of course, your meter and shutter can make a difference on your results, but that is not really affecting the speed of the film.

Someone mentioned that Delta 400 is rated according to practical results, rather than ISO standards. This is true of all ILFORD film for development ratings other than the standard. The ISO standard does not cover pushing or pulling film. Also, the Delta 400 actually specs out a little on the high side of 400; enough so that in developers which tend to give a speed boost, it is more accuratly described as a 500 or even 640 speed film. On a related note, Delta 3200 is an ISO 1000-1250 film, which is why the number is only given as an EI, not an ISO speed. Kodak does the same with T-Max 3200P.

Bottom line is that you will need to do some testing. I find that for my shooting, most of the ISO speeds work quite well, although I do like to give extra exposure for the conventional films. I end up rating the Delta films at the ISO, but give FP4+ and HP5+ an extra 1/3 to 2/3 stop.

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

The stock solution will give a finer grain than 1+1, but at the expense of a slight loss of sharpness. The 1+1 is sharper than stock, and the 1+3 is a little bit sharper, but is IMO only suitable for cases where you wish to lower the contrast.

The stock solution can be re-used, by increasing development time about 10% after every 2 rolls per liter. Do not exceed a total of 10 rolls per liter.

I personally do not like to re-use developer, as it is always less consistent than using it one-shot. And with a developer like ID-11, the cost is almost negligible compared to the film and the time spent.

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

I don't think that there is any problem with SFX in cameras with the red window, but the only way to know for sure is to try it. One suggestion is to cover the window with black tape, uncovering it only to advance the film. This may make a big enough difference to help.

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

The ILFOSTOP can be saved and re-used, as long as it does not turn purple. There may be a point where it has not yet turned, but is close and therefore slower acting, but it should still do the job.

As far as dilutions go, ILFOSTOP is based on citric acid as opposed to acetic acid, which is why it is nearly odorless. It is because of the different components that the recommended dilution differs from what you have used in the past. Of course, making it more dilute does no harm, just slows it down. Citric acid based stop works a little slower than acetic, which makes pinholes and acid-shock reticulation pretty much a thing of the past.

You can dump exhausted stop bath down the drain in most locales; you may want to read the MSDS for more information (available at www.ilford.com

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

Either the Xtol or the Tmax should give pretty good results. I would stay away from the Rodinal, unless you are looking for huge grain.

The times I would recommend are the same as you have already seen on digitaltruth; YMMV.

David Carper

ILFORD Imaging, USA

Could you fill me in on where you are finding this information on the box? I checked a current production box, and found nothing pertaining to not disposing down a drain.

Looking at the MSDS, it states:

Unused and spent solutions may be allowed to be discharged to sanitary sewer by permit IF allowed by local regulations. Consult your local authority for advice.

In general, the amounts used by amateurs is small enough that most regulations allow for its disposal without permit. Unless you are a large volume user, or on a septic system, you should have no issues with disposing of working strength developer down the drain.

David Carper

ILFORD Imaging, USA

As one poster noted, ILFORD is being a little more conservative with what we say the film can do that we did with the original XP1. As far as I know, the XP2 Super will still surpass the older XP1 at any speed.

Rating this film at 200 will give you a finer less noticable grain, especially in the shadow areas. You will see little if any change in the tonality. The film should be processed in standard C-41 regardless of the exposure index used.

David Carper

ILFORD Imaging, USA

Water or stop bath can be used after development. As others have pointed out, stop bath will be quicker, but in practice, a water bath will also stop the development rather quickly, especially since by the end of the development time, it is going rather slow anyway.

In the past, ILFORD recommended using only water. The reason was that if the development is halted to quickly, you can get acid-shock reticulation, which is the result of the rather violent chemical reaction taking place on the surface of the film. With today's films, and less aggressive stop baths (such as the ILFORD ILFOSTOP, which is citric acid based rather than acetic), the danger is eliminated. However, if you are using Dektol, you may run a risk with using a stop bath, as the developer is much more active than those usually used for film.

I would not recommend skipping this step altogether. While that may work okay with some developers, in many cases it can lead to dichroic fog on the film, especially if the fixer is not totally fresh. This fog will show up as a slightly silvery sheen on the film, or can sometimes have a color to it, resulting in an apparent stain. The use of a stop bath or at least a good water rinse will eliminate this possibility.

David Carper

ILFORD Imaging, USA

What you are probably seeing is residual dyes. These dyes may or may not show color, depending on the pH of your final wash. As others have pointed out, use of a wash aid will remove them. Otherwise, the dyes will fade with exposure to light.

The dyes used have little or no effect in printing, on either graded or variable contrast paper.

David Carper

ILFORD Imaging, USA

The Pan 100 and Pan 400 films are conventional technology films (similar in that respect to FP4+ and HP5+) which are sold in areas of the world where pricing is a major issue. This is done by manufacturing the film with somewhat lower specifications and tolerances than used with the main ILFORD brands.

It is still very good film, good enough to carry the ILFORD name, but I would not recommend using it for critical applications.

David Carper

ILFORD Imaging, USA

If you are not using a hardener, you can treat all ILFORD fixers the same. 1+4 dilution, for 2-4 minutes with conventional films, 3-5 minutes for Delta and T-Max films.

If you wish to use a hardener, you must use HYPAM fixer, or if you still find it, the discontinued UNIVERSAL Rapid Fixer. Same fixer, different name.

As for the name changes, this is a result of no longer producing chemistry in the US. Since all the chemistry is produced in one factory, it does not make sense to use different names for different parts of the world. Additionally, the increased reliance on the internet has made it advantageous to have the same names in use worldwide.

There is some pricing discrepancy that does not make sense. If you are not using a hardener, buy whichever fixer is cheaper; they will work equally well.

David Carper

ILFORD Imaging, USA

Since Kodak no longer recommends dilutions past 1+1, ILFORD has not conducted any testing at 1+2 or 1+3.

David Carper

ILFORD Imaging, USA

120 film has much less density in the base than 35mm does, which explains why you saw a difference between the films. The color on the 35mm is a combined result of base color and residual dyes. The dyes can vary on how much is retained in the film, depending on the age of the film, the chemistry used, and the pH of your wash water. The dyes will additionally fade with age and exposure to light.

The color of the dyes and base will have very little effect on printing.

David Carper

ILFORD Imaging, USA

I wanted to let everyone know that I am still trying to monitor this

board, but since this is not part of my primary duties, I sometimes

go several days or more without checking in.

If you have a question which requires an answer from ILFORD, please

send it to us-techsupport@ilford.com

This will be answered by either me or another ILFORD representative.

If you post it here, I'll try to get to it, but sometimes I may miss

it.

I will be glad to answer any technical questions, but I cannot answer

questions regarding ILFORD business practices or relationships.

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

I would not recommend stocking up on ILFOCHROME materials. I know of

no plans to change the offerrings of any products in the ILFOCHROME

Classic line. In fact, ILFORD has recently done a great deal of R&D

on ILFOCHROME to make it compatible with digital enlargers.

<p>

Since I am based in the US, and do not have daily contact with ILFORD

in Australia, I don't know what the distribution may be like down

under, but rest assured that ILFORD will continue to manufacture

ILFOCHROME for the forseeable future.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

Been there and done that, although my equipment was never recovered.

(worked out well because I have much better equipment now; never

would have upgraded otherwise).

<p>

I now not only keep the vehicle locked, but I have a chain anchored

to a seat support. Each case is locked to the chain as soon as I put

it in the van. A little bit of extra work, but well worth the effort.

<p>

Glad you got your stuff back.

<p>

David

I don't have any recommendations for HP5+ at ratings less than 400.

However, HP5+ is very tolerant of over-exposure, so I don't think you

are looking at a disaster.

I would recommend using PERCEPTOL, as it has an inheirent speed loss.

Using the stock solution for 10 minutes at 68°F should give you a

reasonable negative with good contrast, but a little bit of extra

density. The density will just lead to longer printing exposures, but

I don't think that you will have any problems with blocking up or

similar problems. Shorter development times may give a more normal

density, but I think the lower contrast would become more of a

problem.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

The polarizer will do nothing for the sky, but will still work to cut

glare from reflective surfaces.

<p>

Other filters will work as normal; that is, they will lighten the

same color (as the filter) and darken the opposite color. So a red

filter will still make green foilage darker and the red apple

lighter. But since there is little color in the sky, filters will

make little difference in how the sky is rendered. Actually, if the

overcast is not even, a red filter can sometimes bring out details in

clouds that you didn't even know were there, but don't expect it to

be dark.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service

I don't know how well T-Max developer keeps, but opened for a year is

rather long.

<p>

That said, I don't think you have a developer problem. You should get

similar densities throughout the roll. If not, you have either an

exposure problem, or something that is preventing the chemistry from

getting to some of the film (perhaps poor agitation). Without seeing

the film, it is rather hard to tell.

If you would like for me to look at the film to try to determine the

problem, send me an e-mail to david.carper@ilford.com and I will give

you instructions on sending it to me.

<p>

David Carper

ILFORD Technical Service