canon man

My 28mm 50mm and the 70-200 2.8 L are definetly wicked sharp lenses. I bought the 70-200 as it can rival primes in most the work I have used it for and it was cheaper than all th eprimes I wanted combined. That would be the 85mm, 100 F2(non macro) the 1352.8L and the 200 2.8L. I am buying the 85mm and the 100mm this term as I would liek a set of primes from 28 to 100mm that are brutally sharp and lightweight when put on the front of my brick(1NHS)I would be interested in that 85mm if you are willing to contact me.

 

That said, I would always want the sharpest lens available even for portraits. Here is why, you can make a sharp lens softer but you can't make a soft lens sharper! Buy the sharpest lens you can and if you need to soften up for portraits use a soft focus filter. I bought my 70-200 2.8L used in brandnew condition, the man I bought it from included the 77mm Tiffen Soft focus filter he had bought for it for shooting pictures of the fairer sex. Yes, without the filter it will show every mole, wrinkle, and pimple on the face. But it will also show every bit of texture on a tulip when I shoot the tulips. When I do portraits with it I use the softfocus filter.

I don't know...maybe theres more than 7000 reasons why so many would buy the 10D instead.

Hmmmm, seems a shame to stick a lowend Sigma in front of an EOS3. I see 400 5.6L lenses on ebay for $600. I would fro the time being buy a 100-300 USM by Canon and need be put a TC on it. Stopped doew it is a fairly sharp lens. I say fairly because I am used to shooting with primes and a 70-200 2.8L. Another way to go would be check the classifieds here and see if the 400-5.6L is still here. I was gonna get it but I really need faster glass I think it was in the $500 range. It may be a bit slow but it would equal the speed of the Sigma at 400mm but it is an L lens so will give you the sharpness that would allow you to really enjoy what you are goingto be taking the time to shoot.

"In fact I would NOT wish to buy anything from the US these horrible days for humanity even if I have many very dear US friends and relatives..."

 

Extremely inappropriate phrase. I am sure their are many of us here who could voice opinions...especially this dedicated student of History of the world. So far I have noticed that people have seemed to keep views of recent world events off this forum, and that is where they should stay...off this forum. I get my hand smacked for it, and this one I happen to take great offense to.

 

Daniel, son of David, son of Troy of the Sandlin clan of Scotland, exiled to the American colonies in the 1700s.

 

P.S Both my Grandfathers and all my GreatUncles and some of my Great Aunts served in the European Theatre as well as the Pacific. Many were wounded protecting those who insult them now. Before that it was their parents who answered the calls oftheir allies who spit on them now, many died, many, to be insulted like this now.

Yeah. I'm almost leary of finding out what my cord for my battery pack for my flash is gonna cost me. I think I'm heading to radioshack to bu the components for $4 and just build it. It aint rocket science!

Yeah, I suggest you go get a set of movie lights if you need flash in high speed!just remember getting your tungsten balance filter or use tungsten film. Or you could live with a three frame burst. You can adjust the power out put on your flash that is one of the great things abotu he 540EZ, 430EZ and 550EX

Another thing is that theElan7 rewinds the film so quietly you can barely hear it, but when loading the film it takes 1/5 the time that my 1N does. The 1N audibly winds it a bit on yet the Elan7 zips it right then. I have also been able to get 26 exposures on a 24 exp roll liek the old AE1 would.

My 28-105(the good one) would vinette with just one filter on it at 28mm. I discoveredd this while shooting landscapes with a red filter in Black and White. Oddly enough I also would occassionally get a vinettee in the two top corners occassionally without a filter. Not all the time but occassionaly.

Do what I do and find the security gfuard off duty and beat the ever loving shit out of him. One time at WalMart I had got off work and walking through the store with my wife and kids( I used to be painter/plasterer, and this little punk(maybe 50lbs on me and a few inches taller) was following me around talking into his walkie talkie. After 15 minutes I got tired of it and asked him what the hell he thought I was doing. He told me to empty my pockets and I refused. He then grabbed my arm. Well lets see: young dumb punk at 6 ft and 200lbs still does not match a construction worker who works 14 hours a day and is docile until provoked. I wonder if hew was hoping that walky talky would turn to chocolate as it went into his teeeth. Okay that was the one time I did not wait until the off duty thing to come around. Point is, don't let anyone man handle you. If you let em do it once they will do it forever. I learned that when I was 8, I also stopped taking it when my dad told me that he'd beat me if I started a fight but worse if I let someone push me around. If I came home with a fatlip or blackeye, I better also have had swollen knuckles. and if they were split open that was even better.

 

Turn the other cheek really sucks when soemone else wants to be a dick. And ignoring the problem does not make it go away, it only makes it worse. Shoot i hope you pulled him down the stairs with you.

Man, I was wondering wher that came from! Yes it went last December along with the rest of the Fd gear and was replaced with EOS. Funny thing is I had to buy a 1N last month to be able to get close to the camera I had with the T90. Funny, I was actually toying wit hthe idea of buying another T90 until I got this 1N.

 

That said I am waiting for a freind to return from his home in Honduras. He is bringing me one of his F1es which I am looking forward too. Figure I'll pickup a 50 and 100mm SSC and maybe one of the older super teles for it. Why not, oughta make a great little pack around to keep under the seat in the Jeep in a little pistol case.

The 28mm can be bought all over ebay at $145 NIB and it is an awesome lens. I do the prime thing myself as the yare sharper, but the 70-200 it was sharp frigging zoom. Negs I have shot with it can be zoomed out from spots in the center and blown out to 8x10 and the only softness I notice is the increased grain size. However it is the only zoom I own. even kickking the idea around of a 28-70 2.8 L has bitten the dust as I am not prepared to sacrifice image quality and th primes are way to sharp. I must agree at the outrageous price of the 14mm lens though.

The 650, 620, 630, 600, RT all do not use battery power in the bulb mode.

Those are both excellent lenses. The cost of both of them would equal out to a good used 70-200 2.8 L which is an awesome portrait lens. I mean awesome. But both these lenses are great. I myself am going to buy a 85mm and a 100 F2 this month. Top notch optical quality

Or if you are not planning on doing some macro, but still need a 100mm the F2 would be a great idea. That is if you need the length and macro is simply an after thought that will come into play on alternate Tuesdays when the moon is blue and Saturn lines up with Mercury. Or if you get the wild macro hair up your ass. I am after the 100mmF2 so that it complets a set of working lenses that can go in a set of small Tamrac lenscases that will go on my belt. This way I would have the lenses I use in primes that can be accessed quickly, but will still be small and unobtrusive on the camera. Then when I want to do macro, I can pull my back pack off fish out the tubes and start doing mcro. When I am done, put em back and I have a nice, short, lightweight 100mm that gives me a bit more working light. The 100mm nacro semms to be a great lens, and I will not dispute that, but it is pretty big compared to the 100mm F2

Thats what I use, Qtip and alcyhol

Actaully I think your freind should do the right thing and replace the lens for you. that is a $300 lens and you were kind enough to loan it to him, First I never leave my bag unatended, but if I did, and my freinds lens was stolen I would replace it. It is the right thing to do. after that, get your 100mm Macro. or get the 100mm macro and wait for your freind to do the right thing.

 

As for the 70-200 F4, It is a great lens but if you need the extra stop then you need the extra stop. I bought the 70-200 2.8L used for $800 and love it. Soemtimes I think primes would have been easier to deal with, but I do a lot of shooting in this range and this lens rocks, so is worth all the weight you have to bear with it. I swear it is easily as sharp as my 50mm to my eye, when I do my part.

I myself am getting the 85mm 1.8 and the 100 F2 next month. Then I would use the extension tubes for when I want to do macro. I would ratehr have the tubes for macro, and keep the lens short and light for when I am doing street, weddings, portraits, and nature shots. I guess it is just a matter of preference.

 

Man, I really don't mean to sound like I am knocking your freind, I am not. But you did not mention whether or no he intended to make it up to you. He really should, like I said, the $300 for that lens is a lot of money. If he does not however you should try and hit ebay, there are always the 50mm 1.8 MkI lenses for around $100, and the build quality is very nice. I have one and am very happy with it. It is one of my most used lenses.I always have it mounted on a camera.

Oh wait a minute...you shoot digi so tyhe equation would go:

samelens/cheaper price+money saved+ more gas to go shooting. or save for another CF card!

Same lens/cheaper price+ $$ saved= more film!

Thanks Phil. It would seem to me that some people can not remember the excitment they went through when they first started shooting. I can although it was 20 years ago. I thought my old Canon range finder was the neatest thing since sliced bread even if I only made three decent shots with it the first ywears I owned it! I did not have anyone to teach me exposure for another couple years, I had to wing it.BTW, I am happy to say that I am just an ametuer. I have shot weddings for a pay and do portraits from time to time. I considered going pro but figured if I do that then I'll end up hating photogrpahy as much as I hate drywall and painting now! Any way, as an ametuer I can shoot anything I want and don't have to worry about it. Unless of course I can make a living shooting stock images and spend my life on vacation. And then only if my wife can do the marketing. I am a photogrpaher not a businessman.

 

That said Jason, if you need any help figuring out a problem exposure or trying to find the sweet spot in any given light drop me a note in my email. I am glad to help, I tutor for the photogrpahy program at the college I go to.

85mm. It makes a great portrait lens it is wicked sharp and I like the perspective of 85mm better than 50mm. I am buying the 85mm and the 100mm next month and guaranteed the 85mm will live on the 1N. I have the 28mm for landscapes where I simply cannot get farther away such as the covered bridge you will find in my portfolio here Incidenetally I reshot that bridge yesterday with my EOS 28mm, that shot is taken with a 28-70 F4 I had in my FD system.

 

But, I like the 50mm as a landscape lens as its perspective is a bit small on magnification. I am one of these people who like the telefoto range as I can study more detail in my subject. This may change when I get contacts again and am nolonger having to keep my eye nose distance from the camera. Maybe not.

Yes go with the Kenko tubes. This is the only item that I will recommend over Canon. Since there is no glass they will not effect the quality of the lens. The Canon 25mm tube is $85 to $95 and the full set of Kenkos is $119 at adorama. that would include a 12mm, a 24mm and a 36mm. All togetehr thse would act lie a bellows and with a 50mm and a 100mm and longer for great Macro. I am getting a set to use with my 70-200. At 200mm and a couple of tubes I should have some awesome macro!

If the 10D's meter is anything like the eLan7's it will not meter manual lenses for anything. As for ETTL/ATTL, the digital camera has to have ETTL or you will have to use manual. ATTL and TTL measures light reflecting off the film plane, since the didgital camera does not have a film plane it cannot measure light bouncing off it.

 

Since you brought it up I too have a 1n, and all but one of my lenses is EOS. I have a Very nice wSoligor 135mm F2.8 in a Tmount. I put a Tmount for EOS onit and put come closeup filters on it to use it for macro. I shot in Aperture priority some random subjects while manully setting aperture(ofcourse) but I was wondering how accurate it should be. I am still waitng for the slides to come back, but figured at best it would ber a touch and go trial. Basically hoping the meter would do what my T90 did and meter from the availbale light with the lens stopped down. Got any hints?

Plus the Canon standard primes(non L) are very sharp and light weight. I consider this a bonus to the insane sharpness.

 

Case in Point: I had a Cosina 28-70 Constant F4 that come to find out was made by Tokina and sold for Cosina. This was a very nice lens that I constantly had on my T90, very well built, very smooth two ring zoom. It was a multi coated lens and one the top lenses of the line up about 6 years ago. This lens rocked, it was hella sharp and contrasty with damn good color cast. It produced images for me that people told me I should publish and it more than paid for itself with the weddings I shot with it( $20 at a local antique shop!)and was virtually brand new when I got it. I think someone died, it hit a garage sale and wound up at the shop where I know the owner and he new I was looking for a lens in this range. I have 11x14 Black and White prints shot with this lens that are still sharp and have great detail. Primes are sharper yet and don't have near the weight! I might add that Tokina still makes aluminum barreled lenses.

 

As sharp as this lens is( it was one of three third party zooms out of 17 that I kept)My EOS primes are way sharper. I used this lens over the FD primes I had as the FD primes had a color cast which was too warm for my liking and reminded me of photos shot in the 70s...remember how magazines looked back then? In fact the 28-105 3.5/4.5 USM I bought for my 630 at the time maybe wasn't as sharp but the color cast was waaaaaay better. That Cosina(Tokina) 28-70 F4 Macro was one of the very few exceptions in third party offerings I was ever happy with. The Tamron 80-200 F4 I had was another one, an awesome lens but a bit soft at the 200 end, but it was almost a pleasant softness. Back to the skinny, the 28-70 F4 I had was a $500 lens new and I sold it for $45. It only cost me $20 bucks so what the hell. Imagine how disapoineted I would be if I would have bought it new though!

All but the 199 A speelite. It will still work just becareful and cover the rear terminals. Shoot I wouldn't mind finding one of the controllers(wireless) but I figure the 60-T3 works pretty good.

ebayebayebayebayebayebayebay. Yes I saw the 400 5.6 L on ebay today too. If you go there and buy it now I bet you'll have it in a couple to three days!