canon man

I think Canon makes some damn fine glass and the glass I have one which being the 70-200 2.8L is the best glass I have used. I love my 1N and feel pretty good about my set of primes and one zoom.

 

That said I would liek to ask why you are switching? I know the F100 is a nice little camera. I have played with a collegue of mines F100 and consider it a very nice and capable camera. IF you are switching for a compatibility issue Ican understand, I happen to like canon's metering also, but I think that Nikon has to be doing something right if Pros use them as much as they do.

 

Of course I don't know which body you have but if you have a nice setup in the Nikon line I would be very interested to know what the Canon lineup gives you that Nikon is not.

 

I feel no need to get into the Nikon vs. Canon thing, there fore I figure information coming from a Nikon user would be intersting. I do know of some Canon users who switch to Nikon because of digital reasons or the company they work for uses Nikon and they just use the companies gear. So I guess for me it is just curiousity.

What do you want for nothing, a rubber biscuit? The eLan7 does better than a lot of cameras by a lot of makers in this department. I wont glorify it and say it is the gift to the world and the greatest camera ever made, but it is better than your Rebel in that dept. I have a collegue with a NikonF100 who swares my Elan7 is faster than his with te similar lenses.

 

It doesn't hit like my 1N, but then again the 1N is a pro grade camera built for the action. I have picked up and played with the A2 the ELanII I have owned a 630, and so far the elan7 is on a par with the A2 wirth the a2 being a little better but not much. If I were to trade my Elan7 for an A2 it would not be for the purpose of auto focus but to be able to get a spot meter in my second body.

 

 

The Elan7 may not be th eperfect camear but it is definelty more than most peopel need. But that saids it is also not enouhg for the more demanding photogrpaher. Good rule of thumb, If the camera is having a hard time locking on in the dark, it is too dark to shoot and should be mounting a flash anyway!

 

Now, if you need the camera to lock on like a pitbull and track like a bloodhound but don't want to spend the money for an EOS3 or 1V then you may want to hit the classifieds and look for a used 1N or EOS1 for a fair price. I have alittle more than $400 in my 1NHS so it can be done. In fact with the 1N I see no reason to upgrade anytime soon. It is all I need.

For one, from what I have noticed, Canon glass is better than Nikon glass. Another, both Cameras are the consumer level cameras for these manufacturers. The Elan7 is a pretty good camera for the money, I have not used the Nikon, so I couldn't tell you. I will say this much, you get what you pay for. I would go for a used EOS3 personally, maybe a 1N. They are extermely durable heavy cameras which focus wicked fast and accurately, and will stand up to a beating if need be and still function. They will also give you serious control over your image. If you are a seriouss ametuer then get a serious camera that you wont get bored with or frustated with because it doesn't deliver something you need when you are in the zone.

I have an Elan7 and it is an alright camera. Soemtimes I wish they would have done more with it. The same goes for the Nikon N80. I also know that in Canon land, you don't have to worry about incompatibilty issues with lenses. All EOS lenses will work with all EOS cameras. Not so with Nikon.

 

I do however doubt both the N80 or the eLan7 would last long on my shoulder as I moved through crowds, or was creeping though the woods. I do know the 1N or the EOS 3 would. For that matter I also know theNikon F100 would and ofcourse the F5 would. I have a collegue at school who has the F100 and it is a pretty nice camera, I was impressed. I wouldn't sell my Canon gear to convert, but if needed to borrow it I know it would do all I asked of it.

 

If you go through some of my answers in the last few days pertaining to the Elan7 yuo might discover that I have a love/hate relationship with th eElan7. I like its small size, silent operation and lightweight. But it is increasingly stopping there. I would recommend it to a beginner, or someone who would only put it to light use. For a serious ametuer I would have to say invest in a nicer camera and then collect some glass to match the awesome body!

Well the 420 Ex does work pretty damn good wit hthe EOS30, I just sold mine because I got a 540EZ for the same price and I can get good enough with ATTL. You can get a 2 second timer with the RC1 remote. As for its durability. I do wonder how long it will remain on my shoulder. I had th evertical shutter button on the BP not want to function today. You get what you pay for.

Peter that is wild, My Elan7 does pretty good with the AA batteries. In fact they last me pretty good. I just got around to changing batteries at the beginning of the month after its intial set in December when I bought it. I must have shot 60 rolls ans just figured that auto focusing in the house at the dreary rain while I was bored drained them. One thing I have notice though is that my 1N even with 8 AA batteries seems to like to eat them. I have only put a few rolls though it (about ten) and already the battery level is reading two bars.

Well, for one all meters that I know of do expose for 18% grey. If you are shooting macro and the flash is mounted on the shoe then depending on your lens the light may not even be getting to the subject as a result of the lens shadowing the flash from the subject. I have found the Canon Off shoe Camera Cord to be indispensable for this purpose. It enables you to get the flash off the shoe and where you can get it to the subject. Pheonix does make a ringlight that apparently has TTL, but I found the EOS Speedlites and a reflector work just as well if not better. FYI, you can get a 430EZ which will enable you to have full control over the flashes output, which is great for macro. I have the 540EZ which I use but the 430EZ can be bought way cheaper( as low as $70 on ebay) and wont pupm as much juice to the subject! With the 540EZ I have to reduce the out put abit and I yse reflectors but I get good results. This also enables you to use ATTL FEC and all the other nice little goodies you get with he EOS flash system.

I do see peopoe pay more on ebay for what the ycould buy it at Adorama or even computer items at a computer store. That said I would say tha tthose buying at that price are simply not willing to find out what something is worth. I for one bought my 1NHS for $359. It did not have the battery magazine for the booster so another $50 at B&H and I had a 1NHS for alittle above $400! I bought my brandnew 50mm 1.8 MkI still sealed in the box for $106. Butthen again, I know where to stop and wait for the next one to come long. Theer are however things that can only be found on ebay and they fetch way over what the sold for new. The focus screens for T90 cameras or anything T90 related for that matter will fetch over $100 EVEN a FOCUS SCREEN!

 

that said, I bought my 70-200 2.8 L for $800 from a guy on the classifieds here. He shipped it before he had even received my money order and it came looking brandnew with a Tiffen Soft focus filter on it. I also bought my 540 EZ at the classifieds here for $167 and although everything works flawlessly the Fresnel lens on it was badly scuffed. I mean badly scuffed. My new fresnel will be arriving from Canon in a few days for $15 after S/H so it can go either way.

I use spot metering most of the time. I also consider even the partial on the Elan7 to be pretty much a joke. As for getting a secong body with the same flash technology, I could not agree. The second body should not be decided upon for flash technology, as much as for other more needed features. I have th eElan7 and bought a 1N afterward so I could get a better built camera. I am still toyingwith the idea of maybe trading the Elan7 for an A2. My 540EZ works just as well if not better on my Elan7 as the 420 EX did.

 

Also a 1N can be picked rather inexpensively also and is just as good as an EOS3. Maybe even better. I read reports that the newer cpu of the Elan7 enabled it to focus faster than the 1N with big lenses...not true. In fact I have still yet to need a autofocus assist light with it. In fact you could try buyinga 1N and either keeping the Elan7 as a second camera(that is what I am doing for now) or selling it to absorb some of the cost. In fact at this point if someone offered to trade me the elan7/BP300 for an A2/VG10 I would do it. The biggest reason is that I really liek a spot meter on the camerasd I attach a lens to. I carried the Elan7 with 70-200 2.8 when I walked to the doctor's office today acrosstown. I stopped to shoot a few shots of the covered bridge on the way, and was kicking myself in the ass for not taking the 1N as I found an instant where I wanted the spot meter! The partial almost wouldn't do what I needed it to do because of its silly cross shaped pattern!

Yes Canon Parts Dept can be contacted at 732-521-7230

 

The address is as follows:

Canon Factory Service Center

100 Jamesburg Rd.

Jamesburg,NJ 08831

 

Good luck.

Oh I forgot to mention that the monopod does work with this setup very well. And also does the lens you are looking at come with the tripod collar? it really is a needed item for that lens. If not the one in the classifieds here that was listed today has th etripod collar.

Sounds liek a good deal Melissa. Let me suggest something to you. Log onto Ebay and go to Henry's.com. They sell a LowePro Trekker 200 back pack which is desigend for a camera/batterypack with a 70-200 2.8(same size as the 80-200)attached. It is quite comfortable and this is coming from a guy with very screwed up back. I don't mind carry it at all as it balances the weight quite nicely. Henry's ebay has them cheaper than anywhere else by $40. Enjoy the lens. Also look out for those 300 F4 L lenses for aoround $500- to $600, I keep seeing them each week. Another nice little trend is watching the 28-70 2.8 L going for less than it was last month on ebay. I got my primes so I am more interested in one of the 300 F4Les!

Who knows how long the battery has been around since it is the battery that came with it. Also if it was a demo model it could have been used a bit such as people focusing it to try out thecamera. So far I have yet to replace the batteries in my Elan7(EOS30) I use the BP300 though. If you use the onboard flash count on getting around 20 to 25 rolls if not you should get more. If you buy a new battery that is not dated it should last as long as the manual says it should. I would liek to recommend the BP300 though. First it really balances the camera nicely, and alows you to use the cheaper AA batteries. I have had my Elan7/BP300 since the middel of December and just replace my batteries this month. The batteries I took out still had enough charge to put them in my sons flash light for him to play with for a bit. I shoot pretty close to 20 rolls a week if not more, so you have to figure that by the time you shoot 150 rolls the BP300 will pay for itself just in the money you save not buying CR123es!

ting while using it so I generally use them fro architectural or macro shots. What I keep in mine is the "L" screen which is a cross plit which in the center has four images that come together when the subject is in focus, a lot liek a split screen in the old manual focus SLRes. If you must clean the screen let me tell you how.

 

First use the tool and NEVER touch the screen with your fingers. The grease will leave a print which will attract dust(actaully it will give it somethign to stick to). the Screen is made of plastic which is very prone to static. While I have the screen out, and it is held by the clamp portion of the tool that comes with the screen I use a bulb blower to blow it off. If I have stubborn dust I use the brush, VERY LIGHTLY. I strat at one side and move the brush LIGHTLY to the other side in an even and consistant stroke. The key is to do this lightly. Remember, that even running the brush across can create static that will cause dust to stick eve nwhile it is in the air, it will attract dust that is simply floating in the air around you.

 

I only do this if there is a spec or peice of lint directly in the middle whare I am looking or around a focus point and only if it is large enough to distract me. I give this advice because being an eye glass wearer I am anal about what I have to look through. Eyeglasses with greasee from your eyebrow on them are a pain enough to look through when peering into a view finder. I only clean my screen if there is a stubborn peice that is big enough to distract me. Otherwise I leave it alone. I have a few specks right now. I consider them good luck charms. I will only take care of them if I am changing lenses I big peice of lint sticks to it right in my common feild of view or when I go to change screens. I generally blow the back side of the screen when changing out also so that any dust will not take up residence on my prism.

 

Now also remenber that the EOS3 is reported to have a minbor irritance in that the screen can become out of line when removed/replaced. So look out for this. In fact I even have to pay attention to this with my 1N. I have to amke sure the center of the screen splits the center focus point into 4 quarters. The cross split and the scale and grid have these intersecting lines and in the middle you want those center lines to quarter the center focus point. If so, yuo will know that the screen is lined up.

 

I hope this helps, so that when you go to do this yourself you should be armed with enough info to keep things running smoothly. Take care.

Melissa, I just saw a 80-200 2.8 with case and tripod collar in the wantads here for $575. That said along with my above post I have see 300F4 Les go for the same. You could rouglhy have the best of both worlds if you get the 80-200 2.8 L and an older 300 F4L. I have seen another 80-200 for $450 in the ads here. I tell you though, these lenses have really decided me on using tripods more though. I can't afford the IS versions but I love the crisp contrasty images and to avoid camera shake tripods remote shutter releases adn mirror lock up are great! Its not so bad when shooting action at decent shutter speeds but I live in gray, dark, rainy Oregon so a good average shutter reading outdoors in the day is 1/125! If you can pan it is not so bad for camera shake, but I am seeing the ballhead as a nice mounted oprion even fro panning! Lots of Luck.

I have shot back lit subjects with mine and it is not a differnce that I could tell. bright light streaming from behind a subject still fools the camera and requires you to either compensate, or use partial. For me that is one of the great things about a spot meter(not partial)and even then it can still be tricky. So for backlit subjects I have come to thehabit of bracketing after partially metering with the Elan7 and with the spot with my 1N.

I see 300F4 non IS used all the time for around $600 to $700 bucks. Belevie it or not if you are going this route the 70-200 2.8 is around the same weight, the 70-200 2.8 being a little more. After the first day you get used to the weight of the 70-200. I bought mine for $800 used in brand new condition. It is a very sharp lens. Easily as sharp as the 50mm and 28mm primes I have. I have learned to carry a tripod though. I just bought a Manfrotto ball head for my tripod, and the next thing will be nice lightweight tripod. I have discovered the need for it now with ths lens. But when you need to hold it staedy it is easier holding this heavy lens than a lighter lens. I too am going for the TC later on but you never know, I may see one of those 300 F4Les go for $500 and decide to snatch it up. I have seen them go even that low in pretty decent condition soooo.

One thing I can say about the Elan7 /28-105USM combo is that with theBP300 it will sit on table or any horizintal surface without falling face first onto the lens. I don't know how much this means to others but I have always hated my setup resting on the front element. This also makes it a nice little carry around package. I have actually found that I can get decent shots with it at relatively slow shutter speeds just by leaning the camera agaist a tree door jam etc. Just a little bit of trivia.

 

Also I think we can see by Peter's shot at the dock that the color rendition of the 28-135 IS is pretty damn good if you ask me.

OK heres the skinny. I had to go hold the elan7 for awhile and figure out what it is exactly I don't like about it. Make no mistake, I often look at it and tell myself,"Such a nice little package, light weight, solid, nice balance and ultra quiet." There are two things that I wish they could have done with it and nobody can say"What did you expact for a $400 camera. They could have atleast put a spot meter in it. Shit Minolta does! ans atleast the view finder could have been a bit brighter and I wish they could have hid the damn dipoter adjustment behind the eyepeice so it wouldn't lose it s adjust ment so often. But reall, I need the spot meter and I could live with everything else if it just had a spot meter. Even a 3.5% would have been nice.

 

Granted, do not expect a $400 camera to lock on and track in AI servo liek the 1N or EOS3 does. Given that it is still faster and more accurate than a Nikon. This is a point that has been pointed out to me by Nikon using colleques of mine at school. Even the one with the spankin new F100 liked my auto focus. It does well enough to hold its on against the competeion. I still carry mine in my backpack as my back pack and nowadys it always has my 28mm attached to it.

 

The evaluative metering works great, the partial meter kind of sucks with its pattern, but if you need ot meter that fine I truly suggets getting anA2 if you don't want to put out for the EOS3 or a 1N. I almost traded my Elan7 for an A2 but then figured that if nothing else I still have 5 years warrantee left on the Elan7! Its not a bad camera and more than most people would ever need as I said. I needed more so I bought a 1NHS on ebay for $359 without a battery clip for the booster and then spent $50 on the clip. $400 for a 1NHS is damn good. You could consider watching ebay for another 1N or even a 1 if you normally only use the center point.

 

Auto focus is better on the Elan7(EOS 30) than on the Rebels I have toyed with in camera stores and at school from fellow students. and the access for focus points on the back is a feature that is very nice. I likethe little buttons on the dial. It is fast. In AIservo it is pretty good, but it gets fooled morethan the 1N. Fast lenses will remedy this.Atleast make it better. It locks on faster than a Rebel but not near as fast as a 1N or EOS3 for obvious reasons. There has to be soem reason why thePro cameras cost morethan Ametuer cameras!

 

I also like interchangeable screens. Sometimes complicated scenes may throw off auto focus such as shooting in the woods, you may track a branch instead of the subject on accident. For this I have the cross split image screen and it works like a charm. Even the A2 does not have such a screen availbale to it. So yes an Elan7 is a nice upgrade from your Rebel, but if you feel like you are in need of some of the higher grade features it may be worth it to either spend more on the 3 or find a used 1N or 1.

 

I hope I gave a bit better insight and less of a rant and hope that my analysis based on my own use of this camera compared to a higher grade camera helps. Goodluck.

 

P.S. The dimmer view finder is not as bad when you use fast glass. Primes in shorter lengths and 2.8 apertures are atleast livable with htis camera.

I'm sorry, but I own an Elan7 and I can never get used to the small dim view finder. If it were not given my wifes approval it would have already been traded for an A2.

Personally I can't remember the last time I was shooting MTF charts in the wild or on the street so they don't mean much to me. I care more abouth the opinions of those who have used the equipment for while.

I own the Elan7(EOS30) and despite its short comings it is a decent camera. It is better than a Rebel. I consider the view finder a bit of a pain but some do not. My1N does not have an auto focus assist either. If you need something that focuses great in lowlight you could consider a used A2 or EOS5. My biggest beef with the Elan7 is the partial meter is not the greatest and I prefer to use a spot meter. Depending on your needs the Elan7 may not be the best camera for you. Always figure that there are soem capable older cameras out there also. I see the A2es go for a little less on ebay now, and even in the classifieds on this site. I bought my 1N with booster for around $400 after I bought the batttery clip so if you shop right you can find a good camera for less if your willing to buy a used camera.

 

To be honest for most people the Elan7 is more camera than they will use. For me it was doomed from the beginning simply because by the time I had bought mine(Istill have it) I had been using a camera with a lot more features the biggest being a multi spot meter and nie bright view finder. If you have no need of a spot meter, or interchangeable screens then the Elan7 is probably more than enough camera for you. My wife seems it like it just fine.

Everyone who owns one raves about them. Personally I was happy with my 28-105(the good one) and figured that IS or no IS at max aperture of 5.6 at the long end it was too slow to spend the money. In fact in this lower range I use primes as I need to be able to make use of all the available light I can. But everyone I have heard who owns one just loves it and consideres it their favorite lens. As I said though for the money you could get a nice 85mm 1.8, and a 50mm 1.8.

Funny, even as much as I love to modify things to work even I wouldn't screw with a focus screen. When I had my T90 I had to live with the original screen as the extra screens for them can run to $150 on ebay! When I got my 630, I bought the grid and scale for it and figured why not see if I could shape it to work. They are so similar in size.

First, how do you hold the screen so that you dont scratch it? then you will be creating a static problem by grinding on it and then you will be leaving hard bits of glass to have to be cleaned off in the end whic in turn would leave scratches.

 

I listened to common sense this time and decided to not even try. Any way, at that point I knew the eOS was heer to stay and the FD was on iots way out. I just took advantage of the T90s split screen for lowlight focusing over the EOS's while I still owned both consecutively.

I would second the vote for primes as they will keep you from getting lazy and the pictures are definetly sharper. I would however like to voice my thoughts on the myth that the 50mm is the perspective of your eye. Fifty mm is simply the length of the diagonal from thee uppercorner to a lower corner across the flim plane. It is not the perspective of the eye. actually that perspective is somewhere btween 28 and 35 mm closer to 35mm, and the magnification that the human eye sees at is 70mm.

 

Personally I use a 28, 50, and soon will have a 85mm for my short range work as for carrying around these short primes balance nicely and deliver sharp images at fast speeds. I use a 70-200 2.8L for the intermediate telphoto range as it cost lessthan the combined primes I wanted in that range and is nearly as sharp(some say as sharp) as primes in that range. So in the short range you may end up happeir with your results if you pick up a handful of primes.If not the 28-105 3.4/4.5 is pretty damn good for a $200 lens.

If he has yes please post. As far aas I know the screens are not the same dimensions and that alone will make it impossible. As for the screen, you can try adoramas used section among others. I see them on ebay from time to time. Maybe pick up a 630 fro those situations you want to manually focus in? or maybe find a 1N? I bought mine for as much as you can pay for a used EOS 5. I also use the crossplit in mine for manually focusing and find it more contrasty than the original screen.