canon man

Yeah awhile back someone was talking about the giant thumb print the shop put on the inside of the front elment that he had sent off to be cleaned. Now if I paid the money to have it cleaned and had to ship it back for that I would be pi**ed.

There is a 100-300 5.6L in the classifieds here under the 35mm SLR section for $250 shipped. You can't beat that for the sharpness the L lens will give you over anything you have mentioned. That is also the same price as the 100-300 U*SM so there you go.

What lens should I buy for the 10D? Should I buy Tamron, Tokina or Sigma? and is a the Canon 28-70 2.8 really that much better?;-)

I take my 1N out all the time in the light rains here in Oregon with my 50mm MkI mounted. I generally manual focus in the rain but you must use common sense. If you can drape a hanky over your lens and I use a brimmed hat to help keep rain off the camera. It is weather sealed but not water proof.

Buy a 1N EOS3 or 1V! something that locks on like a pitbull and tracks liek a bloodhound. That said my Elan7 doesn't do to bad tracking in AI Servo, what lens are you using?

There was a 100-300 5.6L in the classifieds on this site for $350 shipped. Good deal to snatch up if someone else hasn't beat you to it!

Oh yes, I cannot afford the 8K for a 1Ds although if I could I would already have one! The 1D would still leave me with a $150 a month camera payment from Dell and the need to keep my 1N for work requiring increased detail. The one thing that has kept me away thus far is the time digi shooters talk of being at the computer working with images. I try to do my part in the camera so that when I scan all I have to do is correct what the scanner screwed up. I am getting a neg scanner in a week so, hopefully it will allow me to simply scan and store, but I am not holding my breath.

 

I figured the 1D would have its place as a business tool for me. Although the 1D, D30 D60 and 10D all keep that tell tale jagged line in the diagonals and I can see the "blur" created from not being able to catch some fine details I know that there are ways to correct that once the image is in the imaging software.

 

the reason for choosing the 1D route over the 10D route is simply the need for the features of the 1 series camera. I need the weather sealing, along with the metering options. Admittedly the frame rate would be perfect since you would not have to worry about burning film! I think I could get a lot done with it. Also keepeing the features of the 1 series would be great as I learned more about the nuances of the digital imaging and give me more to experiment with. who knows, by the end of it all I may be using even a 4MP sensor for most of the work. That is unless the price significanly drops on the 1Ds! Who knows.

 

Looks liek a worthwhile plunge to take, embrace change, and use it as a method to improve your own skill...and chances of survival in the ever changing face of imaging!

 

Careful planning!

Well, I went and bought a new 2CR5 yeasterday and installedthe battery grip and the camera works not. The booster does not. I started to wonder about this when I started yeasterday putting batteries in and getting the LCD display but nothing past that. Then finally the "bc" became permannent without any other response. But the old @cr5 would choww all the LCD information but would flash "bc" upon tripping the shutter button. This I knew was a low battery sign so figured I would try a new battery and sure enough without the booster the camera works great. The forst night however nothing would respond, neither thebooster or grip battery, so that is what led to the intial confusion.

 

My final deduction is that when problems liek this arise it can just as easily be an accessory as it can be the camera itself. In this case it appears to be a problem in the booster.

 

That said I am still going to send the camera to Canon for a CLA and the booster in to be repaired. I was originally going to do this at the end of summer but after this weeks fun, I figure living without it for a couple of weeks while Canon of Seattle has it is a much better prospect than having a nasty surprise at a shoot! Glad to know that my shutter is fine though.

 

Another little clue to this aside from the LCD trying to display information was that when I would install the booster as it made contact with the terminlas the drive would turn ever so slowly and even with the camera turned off the"bc" would display while the "bc" would not display when the grip battrey(2CR5) was installed. However, the first day this was touch and go too. So an interesting little problem which luckily looks liek the ending may be a bit happier.

 

For archival purposes for those looking for "cures" in the future for problems with their cameras. These things are just as fickle as cars! I am becoming more aware that there is simply no such thing as typical problem. such as a blown head gasket does not always cause a car to lose compression or mix oil and water! I can think of 8 or 9 different symptoms of blown head gaskets, cameras are apparently similar in the respect of problems. Trial and Error is sometimes the best problem solving tool!

Yes I actaually cleaned all the contacts last week when the lens decided not to focus one day. I just decided to clean all contacts in my bag! When I reinstalled the battreies this morning evry thing came on and acted like it was going to work...then I installed the lens, clack clack "bc"! I did manage to get it to perform the machinegun sound with the back open and I could definetly see the shutter vibrating. I'll ship it off to Canon and have them fix it and CLA. I intended to send it off at the end of summer anyway. Maybe its best this way as I can start summer off with it basically a brandnew camear when I go out to the tracks and shoot the races and such. I'l also know how much wear is on the shutter at that point!

 

I was stuck with the Elan7 all day and really missed the brick. The Elan7 is a nice little camera but so many times did I want my spot meter. 10% partial is just not the same! But atleast I have the elan7 to shoot! It does most of what I need it to and I know the meter is accurate. The autofocus is accurate too so Atleast I am still in business.

That was one of the reasons I looked for one so cheap so I could send it of for a go through anyway.I figured quite a few 1 series camera get used hard as that is what they are built for. It was working so great that I figured I would hold off abit. I dont know if this has happened before but I doubt it. This morning after I got my coffee down me I put the batteries back in and it powered up fine after a few clicks. I put the lens on it and it multi clicked again and shut off. I am figuring it is a sign that it wants to go get gone through after a hard life so that is what I'll do.

 

After seeing what it did this morning and being able to pay attention to where the noise was coming from it doesn't sound like the shutter, and since the lens was off when it did its initial click I could see the mirror did not move. I also thought I detected the sound plus slight vibration coming from the side where the booster mates with the drive inside the camera. After seeing this I am wondering if it was in the area of the built in motor drive. perhaps a drive linkage? Pretty possible considering this one had probably had the booster on it most its life according to the sellers testament. These boosters generate quite a bit of torque which is very obvious when you shoot without it and then put it on and shoot. You can hear the difference in the motor drive. In liue of this I am simply chocking up to normal wear and tear and see the Canon shop as the best place for it. Like any other peice of machinery it is bound to develop problems and not all will be identical.

BTW I did remove the lens and reinstalll. I actually cleaned terminals the other day because it would not respond, the day before that it had refused to respond while trying a vertical shot. And funny enough my first set of batteries lasted me only 2 weeks before they went dead. I checked batt level yesterday and it had three bars and I checked them just now and the meteer 1.34 volts average. I put fresh ones in just now and still just the "bc".

 

I am thinking I may have no choice but to let Canon check her out. sucks, as tht money was ggoing ot get a 85mm! well hopefully I can still do the 1.4 TC

Maybe my camera heard me talking about buying a 1D and decided to

take a s**t on me. I picked it up to take a shot and as I tried to

meter the scene the shutter sounds liek it just went crazy, the

nstopped, then as I realesed the shutter it did it again and stopped

every thing except flash bc in the LCD. Shutter problem or something

funky in the electronics?

 

I have taken the batteries out, taken the booster off and reinstalled

the grip and 2CR5 and nothing. The shutter appears to be sitting

where it needs to be except the first curtain almost looks as if it

is a little crooked, but come to think of it it has always looked a

little crooked and worked great up until 15 minutes ago.

Okay now I know I'll need to also get a spare battery and possibly a third later down the road. Being NiMH they should have a better life than the NiCads of yesteryear so I ca ndeal with it. Now, Is there any particular brand of CF card to stay away from. Also about portable storage such as hard drives, what do you guys use and why. Just to give me an idea.

 

I figure even if I only start with a couple 256MB cards and the batteries I can do some good shooting and come home and down load and burn to disc. I already know where I will start using this thing so with any luck by summers end I may be able to get the camera to pay for itself atleast along with some extra gadgetry to enable me a bit more flexibility in the feild.

 

I also would like to assume and so correct me if I am wrong; that if I shoot the way I do now by making sure I nail my exposure and focus, and shoot selecitvely I should be able to cut down my computer time. In other words if I do my part at the camera I wont be spending time at the terminal trying to fix what I screwed up. That has worked for me for film in Black and White and even my scanned down prints wit hthe flatbed. This is however a different animal.

 

For a small town we have a couple things going for us. We have a well known BMX track, and I have heard many say that theywish we got better coverage in the publications. I am going to try that along with our stock car track. We have a dirt oval that is reported one of thefastest in Oregon and most fun so I am planning on hitting it too this summer with earplugs donned. That along with gettting some of our Historic Festivals covered and even local ball games maybe I can make a meager start.

 

I know I could with film too, and will still take the 1N along for a backup but atleast in digital I can get immediate results and possibly even use that as a source of reveunue by being able to display my results immediately and making a sales pitch...who knows its wirth a shot.

 

I figure if nothing else if you guys give me a long list if I play my cards right and ethically even if I can't affrod everything right now I may be able to later so I am willing to take all your suggestions.

 

Thanks in advance.

Sounds great. I really wish I could afford the 1Ds but alas I cannot. I see the need and versatility of digital though and so figure it is time to jump on the wagon. I think of the film at the lab that needs picked up and the several rolls I will have to drop off when I go pick up the new slides and then look at this stack of blank CDs next to me anf realize how easy it would be to plug the 1D into the computer and download the images. At which point their ready to go or send to the paper or whatever else.

 

I will still keep hold of the 1N as when I need to go on an extended shoot or want to do certain things I can get more resolution, but all that resolution don't mean squat if I get a great shot that can't get sent to the paper before the story is run huh!

 

In class tonight we watched a film on paradigms and thinking outside the box. Funny how that was shown in sync with my considering making a major move like this huh?

I had a Cosina 28-70 F4 for my FD system which turns out it was made by Tokina. It was a damn fine lens and I used it for a few years. It was my main lens before I went back to the world of primes before switching to EOS. It gave good images with nice color and was built like a rock, wit ha really easy Focus ring, and the zoom ring was just stiff enough to not creep but easy to use. Beleive it or not I had a hard time parting with that lens! I was dman near tempted to keep it and my T90.

I had L4 and L5 scraped out with a double lamenectomy 2 years ago after which the surgeon told me he probably should have fused me. Along with nerve dameage and the disentegration of the lower 5 discs in my back I already get t olead an interesting life. I do as much as I can, make sure not to over do it but if I just sit home and do nothing I would go crazy. I find couches in lounges at school to lie on when I need to and when in the woods I will lay on my bench seats in my Wagoneer and if its summer I'lll simply lie down to avoid the spasms on the forest floor,beside a waterfall or rapids.

 

One must go on though. Being out of shape hurts worse than getting regular excersice and pushing it abit every once in while. The trick is to find the balance.

I would definetly use it for local photojournalism, and even try and use it in the woods to get some photojournailsm done there too. Such as shooting wildfires this summer, logging nature conservation, see if I can ride along with some of the BLM workers. Show the effects of mudslides and such. If it does good enough I might even consider using it for weddings, but I would really like to not have to rely on weddings to make a living. I have not shot one in months for a reason.One is childcare, because I like my wife to help me with them. She is an excellent people person, and I admittedly am alittle too blunt.

 

I almost think that to use it for artistic self serving nature photography would be expecting too much but if it could that too then it would be nice. I guess I'd like to know what kind of detail can it really record and at how much noise will I have to try and filter out in Photo Shop. I know it is geared towards sport photorpahers and photojournalists, but can it handle more artsy fartsy stuff too.

 

I do think that for some things I would probably have to stick with film such as shooting plant life and animal life, maybe the bulk of my architectural stuff such as shooting the old mills logging camps and such. You never know. I will getting the frontend and leafsprings done on my Jeep Wagoneer this month so I am planning on being able to get back into the woods and shooting again. I am getting bored with shooting campus life and such.

Yes I was talking about the Canon 3.5/4.5 version. And yes it really gets good around F8. The one I had semmed to be pretty damn good wide open also. I have several shots taken in available light on TMax that show enough detail to track veins in arm along with light blonde hairs on the arm also.at 4.5

 

I just haven't seen too many Sigmas that feel like their built very well. I have heard that there are a few out there that are real nice. I also know my freind has gone through a few of their 50mm 2.5 Macros but he has used a big 300mm by Sigma to publish guite a few shots in motorcycle mags and NRA, and local shooting publications.

 

He uses a Tamron 28-105 2.8 I beleive thats the range to shoot all his weddings. He uses Minolta 800i and I don't think the man owns one Minolta auto focus lens. The only two Minolta lenses he owns are manual focus 45mm and 90mm that came wit han XG11 that I sold him last summer.

 

True a 24-85 would let you go wider, and if you are going with consumer zooms right now you might look into the 19-35 3.5/4.5. I think in all fairness though you might just need to consider something...gulp... a sigma wide angle prime. Beleive it or not I can understand when cost becomes an issue. The Sigma wideangles are also considerably cheaper than Canon counterparts. I am talking about the price of these wide angle primes versuse the canons similar primes some of which run past $1000! Theer are quite a few people who say they are sharp and quite a few who call them crap, but their cost versus a Canon leaves one to think they might be options.

 

I am not a supporter of third party lenses being one who played third party roulette for years when shooting the FD system so I could use zooms with newer technolgy. When you see one too many Canon zooms being sold for $150 in a pawn shop wit ha scratched lens(for a long time that is the only place I could affrod to buy cameras)you start looking at other options. One of the many reasons I switched to EOS was to be able to buy strictly Canon lenses. I have had some really good ones, but I have also had some nightmares. I am sure there are quite a few people here that could even point you towards the good Sigma primes. I do go by my freinds example and would stay away from that 50mm 2.5 Macro!But I hear Sigmas 90mm Macro is dynamite so there you go!

I have been searching like a bear but still can't find an aswer about

the acyaul image quality of this camera. luminous landsacpe's review

was a positive review but that isalso just one person's thoughts and

opinions. I find DPreview pretty impossible to navigate and wheneevr

I do a search here I only get a couple threads pertaining to battery

life.

 

I would like to know if anyone owns the 1D and what they honestly

think about the camera. Does the 4MP sensor produce enough resolution

to get good sharp enlargements? Theer is no way I could get a 1Ds

right now but I may be able to swing the 1D at Dell and would like to

get a few honest opinions of it before I do.

 

I am simply not interested in the 10D,D60,or D30 I have an Elan7 and

it is a nice little second camera. For that money I can get a 1V and

continue with Provia for awhile.From what I hear the 10D is a good

camera but for my needs I need more camera. The functions of the

1series are more valuable than the latest digi to me. But if the 4MP

could stay competitive for the time being who knows, I may beable to

get enough done to swing the 1Ds later on. For right now, the abilyt

to repel weather, spot metering, interchangeable screens for manual

focusing and high speed buffer would be well worth committing to a

camera payment. But the reason I hadn't done it yet is wondering

whether the 4MP snesor is good enough to deliver enlarged work.

For the money it is a good lens, and is pretty sharp for a cheap lens. Since you know about the crop factor you do realize that you will need a 20mm if you want wide angle view right?

the only thing in the make up that I personally can find to explain the differences in color rendition between the L family and the primes and consumer lenses is the use of flourite and UD elements.they also use SSC coating and use greater anti reflective surfaces on the inside of the lens. One cannot also deny the colors that the L lenses produce in comparison to other lenses. In fact the 70-200 L family in the Canon line up and the super teles really make this obvious. the colors in my 28 and 50 are not as vibrant as they are in the 70-200 I have.To be honest although sharper the primes do not produce quite the color my old 28-105 did. If it ever starts to bother me I'll just pick up the Tiffen filters I named above. So far wit hFuji chrome the colors are good enough to keep me happy in the primes. I have also come to recognize the difference in looking at prints and shots when viewd on a monitor.

Can do

550EX buddy the 550 EX. the 420 EX will work but will not give you any manula controls or override. In order to use meter assisted flash photogrpahy you will have to have ETTL so the cameras meter can measure the light reflected fro mthe subject via the preflash as opposed ATTL and TTL which measure light reflected off the film plane which by some odd quirk of destiny the 10D does not have.

compared to prices here that is high as I paid $415 for mine wit hthe BatteryPAck(non eye control version)but it sounds like a good price. If it comes with theCanon Warrantee thne maybe they were overstocked or are selling old stock to make way for 10Des in their inventory along with some of the new Rebels. Retailers do stuff liek that from time to time and its generally a good time to buy. that lens is $200 here in the U.S. new and it is a true gem. they are sharp even wide open atleast mine was and when stopped down its even better. If I had a negative scanner(later this month) I could send you soem examples of what it has done for me. I shot withthe FD system(manual focus) for 15 years and bought a 630 last summer. I bought the 28-105 to put on it and the images were so niec I shelved the FD system. It seems to be a nie little deal for you. You should get some really nice photos withit.

 

I use my Elan7 as a second camera and support for my 1N. Due to its light weight my 70-200 finds itself on the eLan7 alot. It is also so quiet that I can get shots that I otherwise could not get.

FYI there is a 100-300 5.6L in the classifieds here at photo.net under the 35mmSLR category that is only $350 shipped. That is a very good price as these fetch close to $400 to $500 on ebay and they have a reputation for being sharp lenses with the awesome color cast of the L lenses. Way sharper than anything that has been mentioned thus far aside from the 70-200 F4 I mentioned.