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william_john_smith

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Posts posted by william_john_smith

  1. I can only speak for one developer/film combination: Agfapan 100 with Rodinal. I have

    been using the same combination for over 25 years in both the wet and scanner

    darkrooms without changing a thing, same development times etc. I use Vuescan with

    Nikon LS9000, been using Nikon scanners since the first one came out. The Nikon

    software is not even worth taking out of the shipping package in MNSHO. <BR>Vuescan

    has a setting of "Reversal BW" for slide film which i have used with some success. I have

    found in my case that scanning the negative as a slide with no color changes and then

    doing all the changes in Photoshop works best for me. Vuescan will also produce a RAW

    scan, I use that sometimes.

    <BR>I did develop and scan a couple of rolls of Tri-X for a friend and they came out fine.

  2. At your stage I would go with Photoshop Elements. BTW, PSE 4 is Windoze only so if you are

    using a Macintosh you need PSE 3. If you decide to move to Photoshop then what you

    learned with PSE will translated over well. IMO, PSE is all about 90% of online photographers

    need.<P>

    Lightroom is not intended to replace Photoshop, but to work with it. I using the beta now,

    looks good but Apple's Aperture is ahead of the game at this point. Both are geared though

    the working pro who shoots lots of image, and can afford them, don't even think about

    either one yet.

  3. For the last thirty-five years I have been using the Al Kaplan storage method, thought it was

    my method but I see where Mr. Kaplan has a year or two more time owning a Lecia so he

    gets the credit. Hope you copyright the name Al. The one problem with it is that I have on

    occasion suffered a senior moment and forget where I set the camera down. My bag is a

    canvas

    grocery type, just toss whatever in and move on out.

  4. <I>From what I've seen, neither are likely to appeal to anyone proficient with Photoshop, but

    are targeted to those who have yet to face that challenge.</I><P>Neither program is meant

    to replace Photoshop but to work with it. In fact if one doesn't know Photoshop one best not

    go anywhere near

    Aperture. Both programs are designed for the professional level photographer shooting

    thoursands of images at a setting and not the

    Photo Elements user.<P>As far as which is better, as pointed our elsewhere both are in beta

    and it is too early to tell. I have found in both great things but I will have to wait for latter

    versions to decide the outcome, at least for me.

  5. "<I>One thing many people don't like about apeture as it put your files in a closed

    package

    library and it's hard to get to them unless you're in apeture. </I><P>There seems to be a

    lot of misinformation about how Aperture stores images - a little deeper investigation into

    the .aplibrary reveals that it's not as bad as some are fearing.<BR>

    While it is true that Aperture creates its own package with a .aplibrary extension (by

    default in your Pictures directory), it is not true that the raw images themselves are stored

    in a proprietary format.<BR>

    If you use "Show Package Contents" on the .aplibrary, you will find folders and .approject

    files which correspond to your library layout. Further examination of the .approject file

    reveals that it is also a package.<BR>

    Using "Show Package Contents" on the .approject opens a Finder window with a handful of

    XML files for the project, along with a folder which contains a subfolder for each Master

    Image loaded into that project. Opening the subfolder for an image reveals more XML files

    (for versioning information) <B>along with the original, untouched, image imported from

    your camera.</B><P>

    Bottom line: Aperture does NOT prevent you from retrieving images from it's library

    directly from the file system. Aperture does not have to be open to do this!

  6. I should have been a little clearer on this: "Process this film in total darkness. After

    development is

    50 percent completed, a KODAK No. 3 Safelight Filter / dark green may be used with a 15-

    watt bulb, no closer to the film than 1.2 meters (4 feet)." It is dim but your eyes will get used

    to the darkness after awhile, as mine did when I was in school learning this method, which I

    never used again, in Rochester before the beginning

    of time. But then again it does take awhile to get the hang of reading negs in the dim light. I

    would suggest just learning to load in the dark and get your methods down practicing with a

    used roll of film.

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