william_john_smith

<I>Can anyone recognize the language of the writing on the lens?</I><P>It is Arabic for,

"thank Allah for OPEC."

The D80 and D200 use the same sensor. The same lens were used. So of course the images

would look the same, they for all intents and purposes came from the same camera. Shun

and Patrick got it right.

<I>.... Check out his site if you fancy but do yourself a favour: don't spend your hard-earned

money based on the "information" you find there. </I><P>Should read: Check out

<B>PhotoNet</B> if you fancy but do yourself a favour: don't spend your hard-earned

money based on the "information" you find there.

<I>.... Mamiya wants that all their visitors must use Microsoft Internet Explorer.</I><P>Not

true. Microsoft products are not allowed on my computer and the Mamiya site works fine.

<I>...sell the m7 and get an m4.</I><P>But don't forget the batteries for your handheld

light-meter. LOL Talking making a mountain out of a molehill, the guy has dead batteries

and next thing you know people want him to sell his first born and buy a M1,2,3,4 or

whatever. Me thinks a bushel of batteries would be cheaper. Besides you can use a M7 at

1/60 and 1/125 without batteries, how may shutter speeds does one need?

Send it back and have them do it right. The company stated that Adobe RBG was the default

profile so that is what you paid for. Them telling you to convert is unprofessional to say the

least. You can also check with who is going to do your CMYK work and see what they think.

No, it is not the low battery light, that goes on when you turn on the on/off switch. I would

take it to camera repair shop. The problem with not fixing it is that if you can't turn it off the

battery then will run down. It should be an easy fix I would think.

I have been using a Mamiya 6 for a couple years and never have seen it light up with the

shutter switch off. I just tried it and when the switch is off, no lights. The switch is designed

to

turn off the battery so it seems you have a problem.

For printing directly on to aluminium: www.horizonsisg.com and

www.booksmartstudio.com/

<I>......but bear in mind it is an illustrated essay as opposed to a monograph and the photos

are (mostly) not full page but quite small.

I would buy ex-libris or Somnambulist.</I><P>The purpose of Refraction's is to clarify

Gibson's philosophy/views on Art and Photography, his monographs don't address this. If

you like Gibson this is a must have book. Costs less then $20.

<I>......costs about one-tenth of the price.......</I><P>Are you including labor cost in your

figure?

<I>ISO 100 is too slow for general use without a tripod.</I><P>That is ridiculous, I

suggest you calibrate your light meter or stop drinking so much coffee! I have been

using ASA 100 color (Ektachome E100VS) and B&W (Agfa 100) for the last thirty years as

my

general day use film, both 35

and 2 1/4, without a tripod. Both on overcast and bright days in San Francisco. 1/250, f8

in

overcast.<P>One of my students is Indian and just got back from a visit. Outdoors ASA

100

during the day. Indoors varieties depending on how dark/light it is. If you use ASA 400

outdoors take a couple of ND filters, you will need them!<P>I would take 90% ASA 100

plus

some

faster stuff for night/indoors.

You must have two Vuescan folders? Just have one folder and when you put a new version in

the folder it will over write the older one. It is a good idea to keep an older one separate just

in case the new one is buggy, speaking from experience here.

I have built six darkroom sinks over the last 35 years all out of plywood and boat paint.

Never a leak. If the paint is good enough for boat hulls it certainly will work for a sink. My

present sink is 16 years old and the two coats of hull paint are still holding up. Stainless

Steel sinks are nice but cost plus you are restricted on size and/or shape. The beauty of

plywood is that you can built the shape needed. I once built a sink that was L shaped.

Fiberglass is OK but I believe it is overkill.<BR>

Size of room and sink will depend on what the maximum size you plan on printing. My

darkroom is 11" x 8" with a sink that is 8" x 2"3" but I print up to 4x5 negs and 20"x24"

prints. As said there are lots of books available for building darkrooms and I would

suggest you read them and think things out before starting. Measure, measure and

measure some more. Nothing worse then building something and then find out you need

one more inch.

If you are using a Macintosh a one second mouse click will bring up the Unit Converter

widget which said that one gram equals 0.035273962 oz. If you are not using a Macintosh

then it looks like you will have to use the ten second google search method.

Shun and Dave have it right. As far as the rest of you I would suggest a class in photography

101 at your local College or High School.

<I>....but that eventually becomes history, just like Evans and Dylan.</I> and A. Adams and

yesterdays newspaper and yesterdays photo.net posts.<P>BTW, Dylan has a new album

coming out next week titled "Modern Times". Seems like the old fart is still making history.

Forget the channel mixer.

Go to: http://www.designbyfire.com/000100.html - bottom of the page.

I use frame offsets all the time when scanning using a glass carrier on a 9000, works fine.

It does take some hit and miss until you get the right offset, but then just remember the

number for the next time. You do know that you can use a minus number? Most of my

offsets are around -40.