vedearduff

I guess I uploaded the wrong image. This shot is as described except that it was shot after he stopped. If I can find the one I had intended to post, I'll post the information here, the correct image will be located in a folder in my gallery (if I can find the correct negative).

Vernon

Bob,

I have an FM3a and an N90s, along with six AI/AIS prime lenses and two AF-D zooms.

I find that the only time I use my N90s is when I expect to need (or want) the motor drive. If I can locate a good, clean MD12 I my end up selling the N90s.

I'm including a shot of my pup. This was taken with my FM3a and 180mm f/2.8 AIS ED as he trotted by. The aperture was either f/2.8 or f/4, I suspect the former due to the DOF. I was attempting to get the eyes in focus and I mostly succeeded.

The thing in his mouth is a piece of straw, but it looks a bit like a cigarette so I call this shot "Marlboro Pup" after an old cigarette add.

Vernon<div></div>

David Hartman,

You stated; "I prefer two-touch zooms but I own the one touch AF 35~70/2.8D." This is not correct.

The 35-70mm f/2.8 is not a one touch lens. While it is a push-pull zoom, it does have a focus ring that is independent of the zoom ring.

A one touch uses the same ring for both zoom and focus.

Vernon

Penny,

You need to provide a caption for the image to display in your post.

I hope this helps.

Vernon<div></div>

Scott,

I'll add another vote for the 105mm f/2.5 AI/AIS. This lens is great for portraiture. The one I have is AIS and I could not be happier with it.

If you want something a bit (ok, quite a bit) longer, you may want to consider the 180mm f/2.8 AIS ED. I also have this lens and it is great for tight head shots. It also has a really nice bokeh.

I hope this helps.

Vernon

Anand,

An any others who are interested in a film extractor that does not scratch the film.

You may want to try to locate an extractor like the one I use. I picked it up at a local shop and have seen them listed in several photography catalogs under various brands.

I am attaching a flatbed scan of the one that lives in my camera bag.

With just a small amount of practice it is fairly easy to use.

I hope this helps.

Vernon<div></div>

Noah,

I just want to mention another use for the ISO setting, bulk film.

You can purchase film in 100 foot rolls and load you own canisters. All you need is a bulk loader, a changing bag, reloadable canisters, and the 100 foot roll of film. The advantages of doing this include economy and flexibility, if you need (or want) a short roll, load one up. Once you find a film that you will be shooting a lot of, you can save money by purchasing it in bulk and loading your own rolls.

You can get stick-on DX encoding labels for most film speeds, but if your camera allows the ISO to be set manually they are not needed. There are a few bodies that will not function if the DX code cannot be read, others have a default film speed (usually ISO 100) if the DX code fails. With one of these bodies you will need the DX labels, this will offset some of the savings of loading your own rolls.

I hope this helps.

Vernon

Jason,

I have a 50mm f/1.2 AI and a 50mm f/1.8 AIS. The f/1.2 is used when I know, or suspect, that low light/available darkness shooting is likely. I use the f/1.8 when I know that low light is unlikely.

The f/1.2 is more flair prone and is slightly less contrasty than the f/1.8. As long as I do my part in focusing, I can see little (if any) difference in sharpness.

I suspect that the reputation for softness (of the f/1.2) comes from the (very) narrow depth of field when shot wide open.

I plan to keep both lenses, I make my choice as to which one I use based upon what (and/or how) I anticipate shooting.

Vernon

Wen,

I use my Minolta IV F mostly for checking the output from my light setup when shooting in a studio setting.

I hold the meter where the subject is (or will be) with the sensor towards the camera. I then take a reading by triggering the strobes and either adjust the lighting to get the f-stop I want or set the camera for the appropriate exposure.

I also use the Minolta when I want or need to check the light actually falling on the subject rather than the light reflected by the subject.

I probably use my Minolta meter between five and ten percent of the time when not shooting in the studio.

All of the above applies to shooting with my 35mm equipment. When I'm shooting with my TLR (no built in meter), the useage of my Minolta meter goes up.

I hope this helps.

Vernon

Strictly speaking; if Nikon never introduces another film based SLR, the last model will be the N75. This is the newest Nikon film body I'm aware of.

Vernon

Mark,

Ok, since it's rude to thank people for answering a question I guess asking the question in the first place is rude as well. No more questions from me since I don't want to be rude.

With the original thread being so old, I felt that any post added to that thread could go un noticed by some of those I wanted to thank.

Vernon

Brandon,

The N90 does not auto load a roll of film, you need to position the film leader and close the back. Then you need to press the shutter release to tell the body to load the film.

This is the way my N90s works and I think the N90 works the same way.

I hope this helps.

Vernon

I want to thank all who replied to my earlier thread, I appreciated

the response.

And for Richard, sorry this took so long but I've been rather busy and

just now had the chance to reply. Go to the Kodak web site

(www.kodak.com) and look for the button "Contact Us" in the upper

right hand area of the page. This will take you to a for for sending

questions to Kodak.

As for the update, I have not yet had any response to my e-mail other

than the automated reply that let me know that they received my question.

Thanks again for your replies to my earlier post.

Vernon

Richard,

Sorry to have taken so long to reply to your question. Go to www.kodak.com and look for the "Contact Us" button near the top of the page in the right hand corner. This will take you to a form that will allow you to enter your question. I hope this helps

By the way, I have not yet heard back from Kodak.

Vernon

Hello all,

Last August (I think), Kodak announced free film promotion. You were

to purchase five rolls of certain Pro films, send in the required

proofs of purchase, and Kodak was supposed to send you five rolls of

the same for free.

Did any of you take advantage of this offer? If so, have any of you

received your film?

I sent in the required proofs of purchase, as instructed on the form,

about two and a half months ago. I have yet to hear back from Kodak.

I just e-mailed Kodak about this, I also sent snail mail today as

well, and I'll post any response I receive.

In the mean time, I was curious if any of you have had any luck with

this promotion.

By the way, I'm waiting on five rolls of 35mm Tri-X.

Thanks for your time.

Vernon

David,

The least expensive body currently in the Nikon line that will meter with your current lenses is the F100. The N75 will work in manual exposure mode but you will need to either guess at the correct exposure or us a hand held meter.

If you don't mid getting a used body, the N8008s or the N90/N90s would be good choices that would meter with your current lenses.

If you decide to get the N75, you may want to consider skipping the "kit" lens that it is sold with and pick up the 28-105mm AF-D instead.

The "kit" lens is a G lens and will be useless on your EM (no aperture ring), unless you don't mind being limited to shooting with the lens fully stopped down that is.

The 28-105mm AF-D will be useable on your EM since it has an aperture ring, you will need to keep the variable aperture in mind.

I hope this helps.

Vernon

Jim,

Since this will likely be your last 35mm body, I assume that you are planning to either go to another film format or go digital.

If you intend to go digital, will you stay with Nikon and will it be a DSLR? If so, you may want to consider going for D series when you get an AF lens. Any of the DSLRs in the Nikon line will support the D information, this is only important (albeit, marginally) with flash photography. It is worth considering.

Vernon

One other difference that hasn't been mentioned has to do with the MB10.

On the N90s, the secondary shutter release functions. On the N90, it does not.

Vernon

Kasia,

I would avoid any of the G lenses, they lack an aperture ring. With your F601, you will lose Aperture Priority and Manual exposure modes with G lenses.

Vernon

"So is my understanding correct : 1. N80 would not meter with any manual focus lenses. 2. N90 would not meter with any VR and other newer technology lenses. 3. F100 would focus with every Nikkor lens ever made. Is that correct?"

-- Hemen Oza

1: Correct. The N80 will not meter with any lens that lacks a CPU. The 45mm f/2.8 AI-P lens is manual focus, but it includes a CPU that allows the N80 to meter with it. You can have many AI and AIS lenses "chipped" (a CPU installed) so that they will also meter with bodies that require lens CPUs.

2: Incorrect. The N90/N90s will meter with any AF lens. The problem with G lenses is that you will be limited to Shutter Priority and the various Program modes. Since G lenses lack an aperture ring, you will lose Aperture Priority and Manual exposure modes on the N90/N90s. With regard to VR lenses, the 80-400mm VR will not limit the N90/N90s in any way with the exception of the VR function. The other VR lenses are also G lenses with the associated exposure mode limitations. The VR system only works on bodies that have five AF sensors. The N90/N90s works just fine with AF-S lenses, auto focus included.

Since you have an N65, I doubt that you are using any AI or AIS lenses.

Do you think you may want to be able to use any of the great AI/AIS lenses that are out there? Does the higher flash sync of the N90s (N90s = 1/250 vs. N80 = 1/125) matter to you? Do you think you would make use of the high shutter speed of the N90s (1/8000 of a second)? Does the ability to use AA batteries matter? If the AA batteries matter to you, there is a grip that allows their use with the N80, would the added bulk of this grip be a problem for you?

If you answer yes to any of the above questions, the N90s may be a better choice. Otherwise, the N80 would probably be the better choice.

I hope this helps.

Vernon

Leonora,

Unless you need to trade the FM2n to be able to get the CP5400 you may be better off keeping the FM2n.

Get the CP5400 and get to know it, learn what it will and will not do that you want or need to be able to do for both your business and personal shooting.

You may find that the CP5400 will allow you to do all you want/need to do, you may also find that you prefer the FM2n for some things.

If you trade the FM2n for the CP5400 and then decide that you should have held onto it, purchasing another will cost more than you saved.

If you decide that you will never use the FM2n again, you will be able to sell it for more than you will get from it as a trade in.

I hope this helps.

Vernon

Luk,

Be sure that both the camera and the meter are set to the same ISO. If the D100 is set to ISO 200, the meter needs to be set at ISO 200 as well.

Vernon

I forgot the bloody caption.

Vernon<div></div>

Eric,

You need to resize the image to a maximum width of 511 pixels and the file should be 100k or less.

Vernon

Wayne,

You need a non blank caption.

Vernon<div></div>