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vedearduff

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Posts posted by vedearduff

  1. If you will be covering sports the 28-70mm may not be long enough. If you get a used 28-70mm f/2.8 AF-S, you may have enough left over for the 70-300mm f/4~5.6 AF-D. I suggest the D version becouse the plastic mount of the G version may not hold up to the use it will probably get. The downside of either version of the 70-300mm is that they are relatively slow (aperture wise). I have the D version and have no trouble using it on my N90s for semi-pro football, the focus speed is acceptable (I have not lost any shots due to focus speed).

     

    You may want to consider the 37-70mm f/2.8 AF-D and the 80-200mm f/2.8 AF-D. If you get them used, you should be able to stay under $1200.00 USD.

     

    This combination should cover most, if not all, of what you will be doing on the year book. Both lenses are sharp and have a wide aperture.

     

    If there is enough left after getting these lenses, you would probably do well to add the 50mm f/1.8 AF-D.

     

    If you need more reach on the telephoto end, the Kenko TC (1.4x or 2x) will maintain metering and AF. If you need to go wider than 35mm, you may want to add the 24mm f/2.8 AF-D.

     

    I hope this helps.

     

    Vernon

  2. There are several reasons that the F100 would be a better buy.

     

    The primary one would be that the F100 works with VR.

     

    Then there is the fact the much of the functionality provided by adding the MF26 back to the N90s is built into the F100. With this in mind, for similar functionality, the price differnce between the two is less than it appears.

     

    I have the N90s with the MF26 back and the MB10 grip. If the F100 had been available when I pruchased the N90s, I would have gone with the F100.

     

    I hope this helps.

     

    Vernon

  3. Steven;

     

    Do you think that you are likely to add a manual body such as the FM2n or FM3a to your kit? If so, then you will want to get the AF-D version since it has the aperture ring. If not, then there is one less reason to go with the more expensive lens.

     

    The AF-D version does have an ED element, some say that it makes a difference and some claim that it does not. I have the AF-D version and have been happy with it.

     

    The G version has a plastic lens mount. This may not be a problem if you are carefull with your equipment or if you seldom channge lenses.

     

    The focus rings on the two lenses are vastly different. The one on the AF-D version is much better for manual focusing. I use Nikons 6T closeup lens to achieve near 1:1 image magnification and manual focus is a must for this.

     

    For my money, the AF-D version is worth the added cost due to the metal mount, the nicer manual focus, the ED element, and the fact that I can use it on both of my bodies (FM3a and N90s).

     

    My brother has an N60 and the G version of the lens and from what I've seen of his results, the image quality is close between the two with the AF-D version having a slight edge wide open and at the long end of the focal range at all apertures.

     

    I hope this helps.

     

    Vernon

  4. The questions about TTL have been answered.

     

    About the N90s "Kit" lens. You may want to avoid the "G" lenses because they lack an aperture ring. If you will only be using Shutter Priority or the Program modes, this will not be a problem. On the other hand; if you plan to use either Aperture Priority or Manual mode, the lack of an aperture ring will be a problem.

     

    I have the N90s and the FM3a along with an assortment of AI/AIS lenses and a couple of AF-D lenses. One of the good things about the N90s verses the N80 is that the N90s will meter (spot and center weighted) with the AI/AIS lenses while the N80 will not.

     

    One further consideration regarding the N90s. If you want to be able to make use of Nikons VR system, you would be better off with either the N80 or the F100. Like the N90s, the F100 will meter with AI/AIS lenses.

     

    About the AI/AIS lenses. Most of these lenses have an AF counterpart but there are some that have not been carried over to the AF system.

     

    Two examples are the 105 f/2.5 AIS and the 50mm f/1.2 AIS. The 102 f/2.5 has to be one of the best portrait lenses in this focal length and the 50mm f/1.2 is hard to beat for available darkness photography.

     

    I hope this helps.

     

    Vernon

  5. You may want to consider the 35-70mm f/2.8 AFD lens.

     

    I have this lens and could not be happier with it. If the zoom range is to limiting for you, the 28-105mm f/3.5~4.5 AFD IF is well regarded (I have no experiance with it).

     

    Since you have the FM2, you will want to avoid any of the "G" lenses.

     

    The "G" lenses are built without an aperture ring and most of them have plastic mounts.

     

    I hope this helps.

     

    Vernon

  6. Christian,

     

    When you turn your F4s off, are you using the "L" position of the switch?

     

    If you are not, the electronics are stil active and will drain your batteries rather quickly.

     

    If you are, you need to have your F4s checked out.

     

    I hope this helps.

     

    Vernon

  7. Jeroen;

     

    It can't be all that much cheeper to produce a lens without an aperture ring. The new D version of the 50mm f/1.8 lens stil has the ring and the price for this lens is around $100.00 US for the US version.

     

    Vernon

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