Craig_Cooper11664875449

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<p>I'll destroy the illusion and post an unprocessed, not so great perspective version...</p><div></div>

<blockquote> <p>Awesome strange, Craig! Care to explain?</p> </blockquote> <p>Hi Charlie, its a blow hole - a tunnel through some rock where surf crashing in below gets channelled into a vertical spout. So its just a combination of a kid playing near by, a slow shutter speed and IBIS doing its job. Although I did take a lot of shots to get one I liked...</p>

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<p>Im using M-mount lenses so I have the same mode of setting aperture but I just ended up in manual mode and never got out of it. My comments around shutter speed and lighting were intended a little differently than I think you may have interpreted it. What I meant is that for a given aperture range I might work in, I would increase the shutter speed in strong light just to make sure the ISO could actually go low enough and similarly, if light was getting low, change shutter settings to manage how high the ISO might go on auto.</p>

<p>Mukul, I shoot with an A7II and completely understand your issue. My approach is set the camera to manual and auto ISO. then just use a bit of thought given the light whether I might need a faster or slower shutter. Actual, I go a step further and always shoot with a -2EV (in raw). The sensor is ISO-invariant so increasing ISO in camera is really no different than pushing in post (and you then have the ability to save highlights more frequently)</p>

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<p>Obviously it comes down to what you shoot and YMMV, but having lived in and photographed across Asia for the last 17 years, I've spent 90% of the time with a 35mm f/1.4 lens and the rest primarily with a 21mm f2.8, most of it albeit on film. Having slightly re-jigged my lens line up recently to suit a Sony A7II sensor, at most I only ever carry a 15mm f4.5, 28mm f/2.8, 50mm f/1.5 ...and again, for well over 90% of the time I would never take the 28mm off the camera.<br> Basically, stop thinking you'll need to be covered for every possible opportunity...</p>

<p>50th National Day for Singapore this Sunday...<br> <img src="https://farm1.staticflickr.com/415/20069188668_f72eaf3e36_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

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<p>Sony A7II + Leica 28mm Elmarit v3<br> <img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/440/18814815764_c32feb6307_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Sony A7II + Zeiss 50mm C-Sonnar<br> <img src="https://c1.staticflickr.com/1/419/19082627832_2c3cdc64a2_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>

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<p>Sony A7II + 35mm Lux Asph<br> <img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7650/16839671621_436a35e151_b.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<blockquote> <p>Don't use A mode - which has the 1/60s issue - but S mode when using lenses adapted via a "dumb" adapter. There you are free to choose your shutter speed and aperture (since the camera can't set it) and can use AutoISO to have the camera adjust ISO for correct exposure.</p> </blockquote> <p>Does exactly the same in M mode with auto ISO.</p>

<p>Zeiss 50mm C-Sonnar<br> <img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7610/16685978498_a652ddd164_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Sony A7MII + Leica 35mm Asph Lux<br> <img src="https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7284/16643348058_582b77614a_c.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Hi Philip, yes No1 is the rubber strip I removed; I did not remove the top one on the clamp. I forget the specific thickness of the FP glass now (I'm away from my scanner) but its probably 1mm or less. I need to be careful clamping the holder down (and releasing them). I have cracked a corner off one piece of glass (still useable) when I first started using this method. John's advice is worth trying if you have a piece of non-AN glass but if you're going to purchase it, my suggestion would be to order at least 2 pieces of AN glass (the 2nd as a spare)</p> <blockquote> <p>Will Newton rings with a high degree of certainty appear with "ordinary" glass? Will anti-glare glass have any effect at all? If not, will a glass dealer know what I mean by Anti-Newton glass or is that some specialty glass only to be found with a firm dealing in optics?</p> </blockquote> <p>Reading this part of your comment, note that AN glass is glass with a minute laser etched grid over one surface. It basically eliminates the glass having a shiny surface in contact with the shiny side of the film, so anti-glare glass is certainly not the same thing or a suitable substitute. I would give general glass dealers a miss; this is a reasonably precision piece of very thin glass. Focal Point provide this in a specific size for the scanner, and at a thickness that would allow you to use a single sheet with the standard holder.</p>