ben_crabtree

Question: Wouldn't Lutz Konermann's "Shade" work on an early M7, the way it's supposed to on an M6?

Sorry, the headline should have specified color print film.

I primarily use Fuji Reala, but would like to have a "warmer"

alternative to use for some occasions. I would want it to have

equivalent sharpness, and not be "over the top" in saturation like

some of the Kodak slide films (such as ESW100), and I wouldn't mind

it it had a slightly "softer light" feel. I've used Konica Impressa

50, but found that it is too cool and somehow a bit flat. Any

auggestions?

Thanks for all the infor. In fact, the article I was looking for described a home-made "viewer", and now I know how to make and use one.

I recently read an article somewhere that described a simple tool

for deciding what lens to use, and from what position to take the

picture. It was a simple rectangular cut-out that you would peer

through. The size of the cut-out depended upon the negative size

(e.g., 4x5) and the distance away from your eye you held the cut-out

(e.g., a hand's width) helped you determine whether to use a

standard lens, a wide-angle, or a long lens. The more I thought

about it, the better the system sounded, but now I can't find the

article. Any LF members who know what I'm talking about and can

steer my toward the article?

Anybody ever hear of some sort of waist-level viewfinder for a Leica

M? Something the would perhaps slip into the accessory shoe, and

allow you to aim the camera well enough to get your picture with a

moderately wide-angle lens, say a 28mm or even a 35mm? I've used a

Rolleiflex this way, but I'd like to be able to use my Leica

for "hipshots".

Konica Big Mini

In the cropped section, I would give a slight edge to HP5+ in terms of accutance. In the full frame pictures, however, the Tri-X shot seems to have more depth and life than the HP5+ one, at least to my eyes.

 

Thanks to Andy for the posting.

Longer barrel length lets less light through. I wouldn't think it would be noticeable on a 35mm rangefinder, but on macro SLR and especially large format lenses, one needs to adjust for lens extension.

I would say that the shadow detail on the top set of pictures is distincly better the higher the dilution.

I would crop everything from the fourth girl's hand, eliminating all of the brighter distractions on the right side of the original picture. Keeping all four faces in the picture makes it stronger, in my opinion.

Thanks for the helpful information. I guess I'll use it for table-top shots, and when I use a 6x7 back on my camera.

I bought a used 150mm Apo-Ronar. According to a table compiled by

Michael Gudzinowicz, the coverage of this lens is only 135mm.

Pardon my lack of knowledge, but does this mean that it 1) won't

allow movement on a 4x5? 2) will only cover 4x5 at infinity (or

close-up, I don't know where coverage is better)? or 3) won't cover

4x5 at all, but is only for 6x9 and smaller?

 

Thanks

I have owned Leicas because of the mistaken belief (also translated into the guitars I have owned) that if I just had better equipment, I would take better pictures.

 

There is a bit more to it than that, however -- I have the thought in the back of my mind that if I do see and capture a great scene, I want the resulting picture to be of the utmost in achievable quality -- ergo, I use the best equipment I can afford. Now if I could just improve my keeper/throw-away ratio above the low single digits.

Marc, as another Northerner, I'm disappointed in you -- it doesn't look as though you have any more than 3 or 4 inches of snow -- just a dusting. Nothing short of 8" of snow should keep us home from work.

You will get those Southerners thinking that we're soft.

 

Ben Crabtree

Minneapolis

Great comment, Grant. LOL

I know that there are occasionally threads about color films here,

but it is a B&W forum. Does anyone know of a similar forum for

color film discussions? If not, anyone want to volunteer to start

one?

A relatively new issue of Black & White Photography magazine has a

review of 400 ASA films and makes some pretty positive comments

about Neopan 400, leading me to want to try it out for a while. For

those of you who have positive experience with the film, what

developers have you tried and which seem to work the best. I would

like to shoot it close to 400 ASA (250-320 at a minimum).

 

Ben Crabtree

For me, it would work better if the image of the woman was more distinct -- with a little more lighting, maybe a little more contrast. This might be possible with some manipulation during printing.

 

I actually like the lack of movement, with both of them being in repose.

I have owned both, sold the expensive one, bought a cheaper old one. Why? Because I rarely use it, and had too much money tied up in the 3.4. Besides, I believe there is very little (perhaps undetectable) difference in performance unless you need to shoot wide open.

To Brad Evans: Great shot. Is that Elvis climbing the stairs?

Why not just use the "people Photography" forum for the photos?

I want to be able to shoot some B&W inside. I'm pretty sure that an

800 ASA speed will allow me to do that. I've tried the

chromogenics, but they're not to my taste. According to previous

posts, HP-5 is particularly notable for its "pushability", but I'm

wondering what developer would give me a good combination of pretty

good sharpness and relatively smooth grain. I have used X-tol with

mixed success on other films, but would be open to any other

recommendations,

I would recommend Tony Rose -- meleica on E-Bay -- who has prices very close to Hong Kong but is in the US, and besides he's a great guy who provides great service.

Anyone who doesn't believe that MLU pays off should look at page 65 of Barry Thornton's book "Edge of Darkness". His test shows that MLU makes a considerable difference, even vs. a heavy tripod. Now, his Pentax LX may not have the lowest mirror shock, but his experiment clearly shows the benefit of MLU. It also, by the way, shows that a picture taken with a flimsy tripod is not much sharper than a hand-held picture. I don't see why camera manufacturers dropped the MLU feature.