alessandro serrao

<p>Try <a href="http://www.fotoimpex.de">www.fotoimpex.de</a></p>

<p>Marcus: I compensate 2/3 of a stop because the Kodak Grey card instruction leaflet says so. Since I don't have half stop increments on my F90X I just use 2/3 of a stop compensation.<br>

Reason being the camera meter (all camera meters) is calibrated for 12% relflectance, not 18%...</p>

<p>If I'm out on the open, I just take two readings: one "full sun" and one "shadow" (opening up 2/3 of a stop) and then transcribe them on a piece of paper. Then I go shooting using just these two measurements accordingly(if the light doesn't change in between - for example on a partly cloudy day), backed up by the theory that if light doesn't change so don't my two readings.<br>

If my subject is half/half (full sun and shadow) I just average these two readings.<br>

If my subject is backlit I open up more (up to 1-1/2 stop).<br>

The problem I'm plagued is dusty negs: no matter how much I'm caring about, the negs are always with dust embedded. Maybe it's because I'm using an Epson flatbed to scan the negatives...</p>

<p>Who uses a Kodak Gray Card for exposing?<br>

I've found that using it and opening up 2/3 of a stop gives me almost perfect exposure in both colour and b&w.</p>

 

<p>I did have a Paterson tank. It started to leak from the red plastic collar where the lid must be pressed onto.<br>

Jobos on the contrary never leaked.<br>

My experience is therefore that Jobos are way better than Patersons.</p>

<p>Consider buying a Jobo tank instead. To me Jobos are better than Patersons because:<br>

<br /> 1) they accept a submultiple of a liter (250-500ml ecc) and not strange measures like Patersons (290ml);<br>

2) the lid is way better in Jobos than in Patersons;</p>

<p> </p>

<p>For example, just today I've bought 5kg of sodium bisulfate as a pool ph minus.<br>

It's 93,5% sodium bisulfate but for my use (as an acidifier for the bleach in the reversal process) works just fine.<br>

The permanganate comes from pharmacy (sold in 250mg tablets for personal use).</p>

<p>There's also the fact that finding out the purest grade becomes anti-economic or sometimes impossible.</p>

<p>.<br />Stuck pixels can arise also after some time of use so I must learn to live and deal with it: it's just a matter of life when it comes down to ccd or cmos sensors. Every sensor has or will have one or more stuck pixels in his own lifespan.<br />Since It's possible that the new camera will have one or, worst, two or more stuck pixels, I'll just send mine to my local Canon repair center for sensor remapping.</p>

<p>I've just bought a new Canon Powershot 2000 yesterday.<br>

Yesterday I've noticed one stuck pixel (red) and today a new hot pixel (blue).<br>

I've shot two several test pictures but the most distracting is the red stuck pixel: it shows everytime!<br>

Now, since the camera can't shoot in raw mode (there aren't any new additional firmwares available at the time) and consequently I cannot take advantage of Camera raw, what do you suggest me to do?<br>

1) take the camera back to the dealer for a new one (with maybe more stuck pixels)<br>

2) take the camera to Canon for a sensor remapping (isn't too early?)<br>

3) live with it and clone every picture I intend to print or take?</p>

<p>This is extremely unusual since you've followed the instructions to the letter and your eauipment is new.<br>

I'm prone to believe that can be a faulty stock of Ilford films...</p>

<p>Grzegorz, what film are you using?</p>

<p>Lex, for curiosity's sake I've processed a scrap of Efke KB100 (the 35mm version) with common paper developer and all common reversal chemistry: a fairly aggressive chemistry. Plus I've used triple strenght permanganate and sulfuric acid bleach and neither the emulsion nor this acetate side gelatin did dissolve: they're pretty tough.</p>

<p>I'm still wondering how dr5.com has come up with this problem.</p>

<p>Exactly Lex. The acetate-side gelatin layer I've found on all 35mm Efke films is for anti-curling the film and the anti-halation dye is dissolved in it, and it has been officially confirmed by Efke with an email.</p>

<p>This gelatin will not dissolve in a pre-developer water bath, only the dye will.<br /> Since I need to process Efke films as slides I need to remove that junk off the acetate because of clear problems projecting them.</p>

<p>I'm wondering how dr5chrome has come up with that problem.</p>

<p>Is there a chemical process that allows to remove safely the gelatin anti-halation layer on the acetate side of Efke films?</p>

<p>The developer system cleaner and neutralizer is probably nothing more than a permanganate acidified bleach and a metabisulphite neutralizer.</p>

<p>Works like a charm...</p>

<p>If you are concerned about the concentrated liquid acid to use in the bleach step then in substitution you can just use sodium bisulfate (NaHSO4) which in acqueous solution yelds H3O+ like the sulfuric acid does, with the convenience that is in powder form thus much more safer to handle.</p>

<p>Again, potassium permanganate isn't that much toxic, surely much less toxic than dichromate. It's even sold in pharmacies. The key I found is to use it half-strenght (1g/500ml) of what's recommended by Ilford. And to use 18°C as the overall process temperature.<br>

Any other method to me yields slides that are unprojectable due to the low quality.<br>

YMMV of course.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>"Sticky layer is a factory applied antihallation gelatine layer.<br /> Normally it should dissolve during developing, so we cannot tell what went<br /> wrong."<br /> <br /> This is the official Fotokemika answer to my question.<br /> <br /> Next I will try Efke KB100 on a reversal process using permanganate bleach.</p>

<p>24°C is not high 'cos I've scrubbed that sticky substance with my two thumbs under a very hot stream of water (must have been over 60°C) and the emulsion didn't reticulate nor peeled off the base.</p>

<p>Gianluca, have you seen a transparent sticky when dry and slippery when wet gelatin-like substance on the backside of the emulsion (not on the mulsion side)?</p>

<p>I'm experiencing this with the 35mm equivalent of the Efke R100 (Efle KB100).</p>

<p>Yes, I know they are compatible because I've used Tetenal hardener with Agfa Agefix in the past with Kodak T-Max and Ilfords with no problems at all.</p>

<p>Yes, thanks Lex anyway.<br>

I've contacted Efke directly, hoping they will answer.</p>

<p>Lex, I've followed the Efke instructions, infact I've used a 1,5% citric acid stop bath.</p>

 

<p>I've just developed a roll of Efke KB100 using: <br /> <br /> 1) T-Max developer 1+4 @24°C, 6 min, 5 inversion every 30 seconds; <br /> 2) citric acid stop (1,5%), 30 seconds; <br /> 3) agfa agefix 1+8 plus tetenal hardener; <br /> 4) home-brew wash aid; <br /> 5) water rinse (ilford style) <br /> 6) agfa agepon as per instructions. <br /> <br /> The negative came out just fine but with a problem: a transparent sticky junk on the acetate side of the film (not on the emulsion side). <br /> I've been able to remove completely that junk just by rubbing the film between my thumbs under a very hot water stream. <br /> <br /> Could it be a factory-applied protective gelatin layer? <br /> And if yes, how can I dissolve it?</p>

I wonder if a presoak in mandatory...