mark_hahn
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Posts posted by mark_hahn
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groan... don't go down the Epson + MIS route unless you love torture (endless cleaning cycles etc.)... I was so happy when HP final came up with the real solution.
Any cheap HP dye based printer will do fantastic photo real b&w prints (on their Premium Plus paper they are still the most archivally sound of any of the inkjet options).
If you like the look of pigment on rag paper get a high end Epson. (~$750 last I looked).
If 8x12" prints are big enough, spend $100 for a small HP... really, the HP's are great for b&w... they just work right out of the box.
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for the record, I get the same results from Vuescan and Nikonscan with b&w, but with the Nikon software, but I get best results scanning as color negatives. In Vuescan I let it do the conversion, in Nikon I have to do it myself... any generic Channel mix seems to basically be good enough. I have much better luck scanning C-41 b&w so that is what I shoot in 35mm. For LF/MF I shoot Tmax and scan on an Epson... no grain problems there because it just turns to mush.
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I don't have any really high contrast object to focus on at infinity near my house so I have better luck setting focus at ~3m indoors with a big black tape "X" on the wall lit up by a spot light. I always follow my focus setting with an actual film test and staggered objects to insure I got it.
Have fun! Isollettes are nice little cameras! (I have a I).
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and if you plan on scanning the negatives you lose digital ICE as well... why bother? Love BW400CN, but TMY-2 is really great...
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Craig, I don't know anything about John's statement, but I have heard similar complaints on other forums, but of course I didn't save the case histories or details... to "provide proof." Take that for what it is worth, many people are also happy with the work. Over the years I have used repair people who "were (supposed to be) the best" only to find out that they were in fact human... no one is infallible. What I remember reading from unhappy Jurgen customers was that they were unable to resolve the matter privately.
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I like "More RR stuff" best! Nice... thanks for posting!
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regarding film flatness, you probably have heard that you will get better results if you advance your film only after the camera is opened, but then you if you don't take your shot you have to remember that it is already advanced... I do this routinely with my Moskva-5 because it has double exposure prevention and you can see if it has been advanced or not, but on ruby window cameras I have to just advance after each shot so I don't trip myself up... and accept the lack of film flatness as part of the whole look (actually, it can add a nice effect to many photos).
I don't feel much drag on mine either (finished up a roll today!).
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thanks for the examples Cliff! Yeah, I guess I agree with you assessment of the lens... you never see that on the little prints of course.
Patrick, yes I agree... it is a great camera and I'm looking into reversible options first... but the problem is that I just don't use the 360 much and probably would if I got good b&w negatives from it. With Polaroid media, I've never gotten great enlargements from scans bigger than maybe 5x7"... and as charming as the little prints are, it's hard to go out shooting with only those prints as outcome...
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hmm, mine has the same lens, how "good" is it up to 8x10? Most decent triplets are very good once stopped down and the Polaroid is pretty much always stopped down. Yeah, I want to do something that maintains the camera as original as possible. If it could be all internal I'd be even happier.
Just found a few expired packs that I'll have to try shooting before I do any serious modifications.
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Looks great! I've been shooting my slightly newer Rolfix and am also loving it! :)
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That looks very cool! But suggests that the 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 film holders will be way too wide. :(
I'm reluctant to give up that much negative unless I really have to.
What do you think about your results when blown up? I've only used my 360 with Type 667 film which doesn't exactly tax the lens very much... but if I put in some TMX or something and try to blow up a large image it might be different. Similarly, what about the closeup sets?
Thanks!
PS I'm trying not to make this into a giant engineering project... but I see one coming.
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I've got this bug to convert my 360 into a film camera if possible. The easiest would be just to use film holders if they
fit and hold the film at the correct distance. Anyone know if standard 3 1/4 x 4 1/4 sheet film holders will fit in
Polaroid? What are their dimensions? Also, has anyone converted one of these cameras? (I haven't found anything
on the web). I like the size and rangefinder etc... and think it would be fun to shoot, but the little prints are kind of
limiting.
thanks!
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Glen, the FED-50 is a 4-element Tessar design lens... it's ok wide open, not great.
I did some TMX in 5+500mm rodinal for ~1 1/2 hour... came out great! From my experiment (and guess exposures with errors) it appears that you get a full 1 stop under exposure latitude using this developer/technique.
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I guess I have been really lucky because all three of my Agfa folders have perfectly sound bellows.
Prices are down so maybe you'll have luck finding a beautiful Zeiss for <$50, but for real budget look into the Agfas... my current favorite is a mint Agfa B2 Speedex that I finally got around to adjusting.
If you like the 6x9 apect ratio (like me!) you can also look into 6x9's that have a mask. Both my Franka Rolfix and Moskva-5 where originally sold with masks, though I only have on for the Moskva-5... though haven't used it (and probably won't since I prefer 6x9).
Enlagers are being given away and thrown out everyday... look at Craig's list etc. I like older Omega enlargers myself...
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thanks all! I'll keep my eyes open... looks like the biggest problem is getting one with plate holders.
Peter, how do you like the Fotokor? As an hopeless FSU addict, I had already been thinking one of those (just to add to my overall FSU frustration I guess).
Mark, yup, digital is completely boring at this point... I'm not going back to digital till either film more than doubles in price and full frame digitals are $500.
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I have an Oly ECR and have owned a RC and have to say that the lenses are nowhere near a match to the Rollei... (personally, I prefer shooting the ECR... hence the reason that is the one I kept). I do prefer a rangefinder over guess focusing and the Rollei is also kind of heavy so for usability the Minox GL beat it out for pocket camera.
I'd buy another Rollei for $90... very nice cameras.
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Great deal on a very sweet little camera and cool photo!
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ok, Christmas is coming and I need to find a present for myself :)
...and really getting into the whole folder thing lately and I'm wondering about a small plate camera. What would be
your recommendation for a good not-too-expensive light weight plate camera? I'm thinking 9x12, but would consider
other sizes. (9x12 seems nice because if I don't want to use Efke I could cut down 4x5 film... and it's almost as
large as 4x5 too). A movement or two would be nice as well... and easy to find plates.
Any thoughts, comments, example shots would be greatly appreciated!
PS I already have a Speed Graphic, but want something smaller and lighter... and of course I love old completely
obsolete cameras.
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#4 is a very good photo!
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Smart sharpen is nice for digital images, but sucks for film scans IMO.
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love the chair shots! very simple and moving.
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regarding using FSU lenses on Leica bodies... some of the FSU lenses are nicer than some of the early Leica lenses.
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"All You Need to Know about Design and Repair of Russian Cameras." By Isaac S. Maizenberg.
http://www.xs4all.nl/~tomtiger/books/books.html
I think I bought mine from: http://www.andrewscameras.co.uk/
I heard that the book was recently reprinted... don't know where.
Good luck!
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the pain with hearing aid/Wein cells in a Rollei 35 is that when they go dead you can't change them with film in the camera... have to wait till you finish your roll 'cuz the cell is inside the body.
More Franka Rolfix Photos
in Classic Manual Film Cameras
Posted
having more fun with my Rolfix:</br>
<img src="http://markhahnphotography.com/rolfix/franka_rolfix.jpg"></br></br>
#1
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<img src="http://markhahnphotography.com/rolfix/rolfix2.jpg"></br></br>
#2
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<img src="http://markhahnphotography.com/rolfix/rolfix3.jpg"></br></br>
#3
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<img src="http://markhahnphotography.com/rolfix/rolfix4.jpg"></br></br>
#4
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<img src="http://markhahnphotography.com/rolfix/rolfix5.jpg"></br></br>
#5
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<img src="http://markhahnphotography.com/rolfix/rolfix6.jpg"></br></br>
#6
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<img src="http://markhahnphotography.com/rolfix/rolfix7.jpg"></br></br>
#7
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<img src="http://markhahnphotography.com/rolfix/rolfix8.jpg"></br></br>
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TMY-2 in Rodinal 1+100 stand developed for 1 hour.