paul_viapiano

Hi all..

 

Has anyone tried the lensboards that a guy makes and sells on eBay?

 

They're made of wood (maple/oak/mahogany) and he sells them for approx $5-8

each...

 

Just curious...

Yes, there's an adjustment listed on the Ebony web page.

 

Just go to http://www.ebonycamera.com/index.html and click on Cameras (in the horizontal menu at the top), and about 3/4 of the way down the page (you must scroll to find it) you'll see the link to the FAQ. It's question #3 and is illlustrated with photos.

"M" is for multiple exposures and allows you to re-cock the shutter without advancing the film. Set the lever in the middle to shoot normally.

 

And yes, you'll need another back to shoot 6x7.

 

I haven't seen any simplified instructions except the full manual as a PDF.

 

Read through the postings on the Mamiya RZ right here on photo.net...you'll learn an incredible amount just by browsing. That's what I did for months before buying one...

 

Good luck, and have fun with this incredible camera!

Hi all...

 

I bought a used RZ67 Pro II kit several months ago that included the AE

Metered Finder 701. I used it a few times and like it, but it adds a lot of

extra weight.

 

Since then, I've acquired an RZ waist level finder, which is lighter and

brighter. I use a Sekonic light meter to meter with the WLF.

 

I'm thinking of selling the AE Finder, and my question to all of you is: Can

you see any reason why I should keep it? Will I regret selling it sometime in

the future?

 

Much thanks in advance for the advice and suggestions...

There's one on eBay right now, ending in almost 2 hours!

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=011&item=320002636823&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1

I just double the Dilution B times when using Dilution H...works great for me.<p>

 

<a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/viapiano/sets/72157594181176569/">Here's a few photos</a> that use this method.

That's right...dark slide does NOT have to be inserted when rotating the back.

 

Also, on my RZ the shutter won't fire if the dark slide is inserted.

 

And yes, I leave the whole thing in an assembled state at all times, even when traveling in my photo backpack.

 

A person here once said, it's like taking pictures with a shoebox! I love that line...

I have the Dell 700m...smallest and lightest I've seen without getting into the super expensive Sony VAIO models. Also, very good prices on them...and don't forget to check out the Dell Outlet on their web site, great prices on undelivered or refurbished items.

Geoff...

 

When you finally get a good one in your hands, you will end up loving that camera so-o-o much!

 

Good luck...

Check the battery...do you hear the warning buzzer as described below?

 

From the RZ Pro II manual:

 

When the Shutter Speed Dial is set to B,

the shutter will remain open as long as the

Shutter Release Button remains depressed.

Since bulb exposure is also controlled

electronically, the shutter will automatically

close after approximately one minute in order

to prevent inadvertent battery depletion.

When using bulb, after the Shutter Release

Button has been depressed for approximately

55 seconds, a warning buzzer

will sound. If pressure on the Release Button

is maintained, the buzzer will continue

for about 5 seconds longer, after which the

electricity will be automatically cut off and

the shutter will close. If exposures longer

than one minute are required please, use

the time exposures mode.

David...

 

Do you have any photos of the meter?

Chemicals are cheap...throw it away and be sure.

Hi all...

 

I'm looking at taking a step into large format 4x5, coming from medium format

experience. I've read Steve Simmons' book and many others and am looking at

and comparing cameras.

 

What advantages does an Ebony (say, their lower end RW45 models priced around

$1,595) have over the Tachihara model that is priced at about $695?

 

I also love the Ebony SV45TE, priced at $2,895.

 

Thanks!

Kodak's time for Dilution B is 3 3/4 minutes, but that can be disastrous with tight time tolerances in pouring chemicals in and out of the tank.

 

Try Dilution H at twice the dilution of "B" and dev for twice the Kodak time, which would total 7 1/2 minutes.

Hi all...

 

I tried scanning my Portra 160NC negs today with an Epson 4990 and Epson

software and the scans look slightly washed out and with slightly green color

cast in the skin-tones.

 

I corrected them in Photoshop, but I was wondering if anyone else has

experienced this? Would scanning with Silverfast and Negafix be able to do a

better job on the original scan...?

 

Would love to hear your Portra scanning stories...

 

Thanks...Paul

I just started developing 120 film with HC-110. No problems at all and I'm very happy with it. I use Dilution H (an unofficial dilution that is diluted twice as much as Dilution B), to get dev times above 5 minutes. With TXP 320 at box rating, my normal time is approx 9 minutes. I just tried pulling the film for the first time, rating it at 125, with a dev time of 6 minutes.<p>

 

The "pulled" results can be seen <a href=" and the normal results (from the roll before this one) can be seen <A href="

 

My other "normal" results can be seen in my public photostream.

As Lance Armstrong says, "It's not about the bike".

 

I still use a Canon D30, their first DSLR, a 3 mega-pixel camera, and my results are better than many shots I see from users with the latest and greatest.

 

I am also having a blast with my Mamiya RZ and enjoying working with film again.

 

Don't worry about technology and the endless cycles of upgrading, etc...just get out there and shoot, retain your passion, and never stop learning.

Ken, thanks again for these comments!

 

Yes, I used 120 roll film in my Mamiya RZ with the standard 110mm lens, f22 at 1/4 second.

 

Most of the shots on the roll were made under a similar brightness range of 6-7 stops. The few which were taken under less contrasty conditions were an experiment to see how the minus development would affect them.

 

I made a digital print and am living with it for a while, looking at it every so often to see if something springs to mind.

 

Thanks again for all your suggestions!

Ken...

 

I placed my shadow area (under the footbridge) on Zone III, but remember that is after rating my film down, overexposing by 1 1/3 stops, so really that is placing them between Zones IV and V. As you can see, there is good detail/texture under that bridge.

 

I let the highlights "fall" where the may...

 

Also, I am scanning the negs for digital inkjet output as I don't have a darkroom for printing gelatin silver.

Barry Thornton's book, Edge of Darkness, has a basic guideline for this situation. On overcast days with no shadows, shoot at the nominal film speed and develop normally. On slighty sunny days, with shadows that aren't defined/distinct, rate the film 1 stop less (overexposure) and develop 25% less time. On very sunny days with distinct hard-edge shadows, rate the film 1 1/3 stops less and develop 33% less time. This is what is known traditionally as "pulling film".

 

The idea is to overexpose the shadows, thereby getting more detail in them, while controlling the highlights by cutting back the development time. The shadow areas develop early on in the dev process and hold, while the highlights continue to develop until the end of your dev time. By lowering your times, you restrict highlight development. Your negs will generally be less contrasty, but you can print or scan/manipulate them to get the look you want.

I think that sharpening is addictive, especially to beginners. It makes images pop, both on screen and on paper. I used to sharpen much more, although never inducing halos or other artifacts, than I do now. I've learned to back off on the sharpening and I think my images are starting to look much more mature and seasoned.

 

Take a look at your favorite images from books and magazines and see if you can pinpoint what you like about them technically. Also, there's a lot you can do with your film images before scanning to assure you have the sharpest negative to begin with. Barry Thornton's book, Edge of Darkness, is all about high-def monochrome photography and his suggestions are all worth consideration.

Hi all...<p>

 

I tried pulling TXP-320, rating it at 125 and developed in HC110 (Dilution H)

for 6 minutes. My normal dev time is 9 minutes.<p>

 

I'd love some feedback on the tonality and the contrast. Are the highlights

still too bright? Should I lessen the dev time on the next go around? I placed

the area underneath the footbridge on Zone III.<p>

 

<a href=" a

link...</a>try looking at the larger size.<p>

 

Thanks, everyone!

Michael...

 

Look at Scott Sandler's scan of a motorcycle here:

 

http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00GsSo&tag=

 

He used a $199 Epson 4490...looks great!

Scott...

 

That looks great! Show us another... :)

David...

 

Congrats! I'm not a large format person yet, but hope to be in the future.

 

Are you a Photoshop person? It's very easy to color correct the scan. What scanner and software are you using?