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bob_cook
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Posts posted by bob_cook
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<p>Here's another one from the Smokies, taken during the same trip. This one with a H'blad 501CM and 150mm, I believe.</p>
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<p>Per Michael's note above, it's important to remember that the filter factor is twice the required exposure compensation. A filter factor of 2X (as indicated on the filter ring) is 1 stop; 4X is 2 stops, etc. I routinely use a yellow filter on my Rollei tlr with good results.</p>
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<p>Well, we're back from the Smokies today. I would say the color was not great. A few pockets here and there. I worked quite a bit on Roaring Fork and found a couple of shots, as well as a shot or two up the Greenbrier area. Cades Cove was terrible, plus it was absolutely jammed with people. But, still had a good time, got to burn some film, and I have the anticipation waiting for it to come back from the processor. Dropping a roll of 120 on my light box still gives me a kick.</p>
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<p>Thanks to all. We went thru Gatlinburg today on our way to Raleigh. I'll be back there tomorrow night and start shooting on Tuesday am. Supposed to rain on Monday, so that may help the water a little. Color looked spotty. It has been dry and hot, so I'll be surprised if the color is really anything special.</p>
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<p>If you want a truly reliable back up, get an F4, F5 or F6 and a couple rolls of film. No corrupted files, no defective memory cards, no incompatibility with future software.<br>
My F6 is often a backup for my H'blad 501CM or Xpan. My D200 is reserved for snapshots. But that's just me.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the link. Hopefully we'll have some color along the streams by the end of next week.</p>
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<p>Any updates on conditions at the lower elevations? Heading over Saturday for a few days of shooting. It's been dry in middle Tennessee this summer - what's the water like in the Park?</p>
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<p>I have the original and it is a great lens. No regrets in not getting the Nikon version.</p>
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<p>I've sent two meters, one of which was a Weston Master V selenium cell meter, to Hollywood Light Metric for repair and calibrating. Interestingly, the meter in my Rolleiflex 2.8F version I matches the Weston dead on.</p>
<p>Not sure if they could work on yours. The suggestion to send to Harry Fleenor may be the best.</p>
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<p>I have an older Arcratech. Have used it extensively with Pentax 67, H'blad 501 up to 150 mm, and my H'lad Xpan. Love it.</p>
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<p>I do a similar "Friends and Family" project, and use my 2.8F. Also have a H'blad I could use, and owned an RZ67 when I started the project. Still chose to use the 2.8F. Just a handling issue to me, I guess. IQ was so close I couldn't tell a significant difference, if any at all.</p>
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<p>Generally there is not much difference between the two. Some find more difference between the various lens constructions, i.e. Xenar and Planar. I own a 2.8F Planar, manufactured in 1961. Has a working meter and removable finder as do many of the "E" versions.<br>
Older models don't have the removable finder. Many models have no meter; the fact that mine is still working is somewhat unusual.<br>
Probably best to do some research on the various iterations. I don't have a link to give you at hand, but I'm sure others will respond with some sources of information.</p>
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<p>Well-done and clever. I still own most of the kennel, some in pairs since only one gets lonely.</p>
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<p>Gregory - you are right, I was talking about price, not cost. Most of us who have run our own business learned early on that price and cost are only marginally related. Value pricing has been used successfully for years and years, and the buyer determines the value based on what he or she is willing to pay for the product or service. Cost is another matter entirely, and the cost-based discussions above were well stated.</p>
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<p>Because people will pay it. The buyer behavior always sets the price.</p>
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<p>Not much effect, in my opinion.<br>
When I bought my first Nikkormat, back in 1968 I think, the salesman demonstrated why I shouldn't worry if there was a slight imperfection in the glass. He stuck a piece of paper about one-half the size of my little fingernail on the front of the lens and then had me look through the viewfinder. Couldn't see it at all. Of course something that size would make a difference, but not a small nick or bubble.</p>
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<p>Thanks for the replies. I'll contact Nikon to see if there was a warranty issue. It has worked this way since I first took it out of the box. I agree that it doesn't affect performance, but I may want to spend the money to have it operate as it should.</p>
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<p>The camera has had so little use that I doubt it is related to damage. And, its been like this since new. It is not under warranty. Shun may have the best idea - just live with it.</p>
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<p>I got my F6 out and used it week before last for some shooting in the Smoky Mtns. Since new, this body has had a quirky battery level display. When I put in brand new batteries, it immediately shows 2/3rds, not full. Not sure that it affects anything. I have never had an "18-roll session" to see if the batteries last as long as they should. This past session was about 12 rolls, and the display still shows 2/3rds.</p>
<p>I called Nikon service and they said it is not normal and needs service. Anyone else have any experience with this?</p>
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<p>I guess I don't understand - do you have to un-mount the lens to check dof? Sorry about the damage.</p>
Lens for E620
in Olympus
Posted
<p>I'm considering picking up an Olympus E620 and the two kit lenses from a friend. I'll use it as a walk-around camera (I still use medium format film for most of my photography). I know that there are probably better choices from Panasonic or someone else, but I've settled on the E620. Now it is just about finding the best fixed focal length lens for normal use.<br>
What would you m4/3'ds folks recommend as a small lens with a 35 - 50 mm field of view (on traditional 35mm). I see that neither of the Olympus lenses, 17mm or 25mm, are rated as having good optical quality. Is there something else that might work better? I would consider manual focus or having to use an adapter.<br>
What about my 45mm Nikkor P that I use on an FM3a?<br>
Thanks.</p>