alec

Is there any Color Reversal Paper out there that can be put through

an RA4 Color Processor? If not, why hasn't this been developed? Is

it that far technically out of reach?<p>

 

I'm wanting to print slides w/o the interneg process and w/o having

to scan the slide & print digitally.... I'm finally getting the hang

of printing color photos and want to print some of my slides.<p>

 

Thanks for your help!<br>

--A

Well, results are back and the film is....printable. Yes, you can get a very...um..."soupy" shot out of them. Most decent contrast is gone. Yes, DIY is probably the way to go, please send class donations via paypal to alec@alec.com.... =) Yes, learning that is the next step, we'll see.

Hello,<p>

 

I've got a bunch of Canon equipment from my Granfather who purchased

it in occupied Japan after the war. It's a Canon IIB with the 50mm,

35mm, 100mm, and 135mm lenses. Body and lenses are stamped "Made in

Occupied Japan". I got the lenses cleaned by Nippon in NYC; they

did a great job. The shutter curtain on the body was deteriorating,

so I didn't get the body fixed.<p>

 

Excited to use these new lenses, I went to B&H to take a look at

some Leica & Voigtlander bodies. The guys at both the used & new

departments said this equipment was worth a lot to collectors

because of the "Made in Occupied Japan" stamp. This is making me

think twice about using these lenses.... Is this the case?<p>

 

Feedback appreciated.<br>

--A

Just to keep you all informed (if anyone is following this post), I took the camera down to Nippon (NEEEEEEEPON indeed). After a lenghtly plea to convince them to take it, they did a beautiful job on the lenses. Amazing how they were able to get them unfrozen. I didn't have them fix the body, since the parts were going to be crazy-expensive. But I'm thinking about a Voigtlander or Leica body to use them with, since they've got the "universal" 39mm screw mount.<p>

 

Thanks to all for your suggestions!<br>

--A

Well, I dropped it off to be pulled. I'm in NYC, and I found it interesting. The first place I went ("The C-Lab" at 650 Broadway) told me the most they could pull it was three stops. Problem was, they couldn't get it done until Monday and that wasn't going to work for me. So I scurried north to the second place (Manhattan Color Labs at 19th St near 5th) and they told me they couldn't pull it past two stops. They even said they'd be lying if they said they could.<p>

 

I actually prefer Manhattan Color Labs, I've been there more and I trust them. The reason why I chose them second was merely distance. But tomorrow we'll see how they came out. All exposures were bracketed 2/3 of a stop, so I may get something useable. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks for your suggestions!<p>

 

--A

Hey All,

 

I goofed and shot Ilford Delta 3200 film at ASA 100. That's a heck

of a lot of pulling they'd need to do at the lab (I don't do this

myself.). It's a good lab, but is this too much of a miracle to

ask? Or should I cut my losses and toss this roll?

 

Thanks!

--A

Hey All,

 

I just received a Canon IIB (I think) made in Occupied Japan circa

1949. It's in good condition, with four lenses:<ul>

<li>35mm f3.5

<li>50mm f1.9

<li>100mm f4.0

<li>135mm f4.0</ul>

 

There are a few problems with a couple the lenses:<ul>

<li>35mm: Can remove the rear lens cap, and I don't want to even TRY

pliers. Also the focus seems to be frozen at infinity.

<li>135mm: Focus also seems to be frozen at infinity. Aperature

dial is slightly loose.

</ul>

 

My goal is to get this into good working condion so I can <b><i>use

it</I></b>. Does anyone know of a good place to send off this kind

of camera? I'd prefer someone in NYC, but I want the BEST

person/place so any suggestions are appreciated.<p>

 

Thanks so much!<br>

Alec Simonson

Ok, got the camera back from Rollei and all is well. Turns out there are some "holes" in the meter board that are supposed to be plugged up at the factory and weren't?! So I guess whomever used this camera before me didn't mind.... Good news is, it's solved!

 

--A

Ooops. This is an OLYMPUS C-860L camera...

Hey all,

 

I bought this camera at a stoop sale (city version of a garage sale)

for a whopping $20. Worked like a charm. The woman I bought it for

got it from her dad when he was on a trip in Japan, and she was

intimidated by the Japanese on-screen menus. I wasn't. The menus

also had icons and the manual was in English. I was thrilled.

 

It worked fine on vacation. Took a lot of photos. On the trip back

I put it in it's case and put in in my checked luggage. When I got

home, the camera looked ok, but no picture was displayed on the LCD

panel while trying to TAKE a picture. I could review photos I had

taken on the LCD just fine. When I went to take a picture, I only

got darkness.

 

So, there is something wrong between the lense and the imaging chip.

The warranty card was included, but in Japanese. Any ideas what I

should do? Can anyone recommend a place to send it to, or better yet

a place I can take it to in NYC? Or, do I just tell myself it was

$20 and that's too bad, and I should look for another one used? This

isn't an important tool for me, I use film cameras for my hobby, but

it's a convenient tool for me to document problems or to sell

something....

 

Thanks so much for all of your help!

Sincerely,

Alec Simonson

Oh, right, the scan:

<a href='http://www.alec.com/Photo/PossibleLightLeak.jpg'>http://www.alec.com/Photo/PossibleLightLeak.jpg</a>

Hey All,

 

I posted a question about this a while ago, but I just got the scans

from Duggal back. Does this look like a light leak to you? Or is it

some kinda user error?

 

I'm sending the body & back to Rollei tonight either way, but just

wanted to hear your feedback. Thanks again!

Well, the flatbed scanner thing didn't work. So I took it to Duggal, who's going to scan a 3-frame segment for me and put it on a CD. ($28.00 for that!!!) I think Roland's suggestion of sending it back to be tested is the best idea.... And I am def convinced it's indeed a light leak. Looking at a series of frames, it appear that it appears and it is most prominent when standing in bright sunlight. Evening shots had little or no problem.

 

Won't get the scans back until Tuesday, but thanks all for your help. I'll post them under a new thread when I get them back....

I don't have a transparency scanner, but I'll see if I can post an image of it from a flatbed scanner. The last time I tried to scan positives on a flatbed scanner they all came out too dark, but it may illustrate the problem ok.

 

As I said, it's in varying degrees of intensity, it's always the same shape, and some frames don't have it at all. I'm not liking this, this is a new (to me) Rollei 6008 SRC..... The first few rolls I took I thought it was me since this is my first *real* 120 camera. If there are light leaks in the body, WL finder ot back I'm going to be most unhappy.

 

Scan to come tonight, thanks for your help. Maybe the scan will give some clues.

 

Thanks!

--A

I'm sticking to my 35mm Canon, and just recently aquired a Rollei 6008... For me, the technology of digital is moving too fast. By the time I get my digital setup together, 11 megapixels is going to become just like a 500mb hard drive.....useless.

 

Ahh, but just as I vowed never to do that, a 1.3 megapixel Olympus showed up at a stoop sale (city equiv of a yard sale) for $15.00.... Hell, for 15 bucks I'll try anything. But that's it, really, for digital until they finish making it better.

Hi there:

 

I've been shooting with my Rollei 6x6 SLR for about 24 rolls now, and

every now and again I have this problem. After being developed at a

good lab, I get the frames back with this wierd white spot (it's

slide film) in varing levels in the upper right side of the

positive. Sometimes it bleeds into the photo, sometimes it doesn't.

Sometimes it's there, and sometimes not. I can have it there, for

example, on 7 of the 12 frames.

 

Given that, I'm guessing it's human error. Am I not winding the film

tight enough when finished? Would a light leak into the viewfinder

cause this problem? I hope someone out there can help, because it's

causing me to crop up to an 1/8th of an inch on some of my

transparencies.

 

Thank you so much for your insight!

--Alec Simonson

I wasn't suprised at all by the fact that my Rollei 6008 SRC 1000

does not wind the film evenly, leaving varying gaps between frames,

because I read about it before I bought the camera. But does anyone

know WHY this was done? I can't picture the Germans having problems

making the film advance evenly.....it seems like such a simple

problem to solve..

 

Just curious! Thanks!

Hey All,

 

So I'm reading my "new" Rollei 6008 SRC 1000 Manual and discover in

the back this incredible assortment of gadgets that I can accessorize

my new camera. Some features that I thought I was missing by not

getting the 6008 Integral are easily possible with some of these

great items; such as the [98130] Timer, [98104] Multiple Exposure

Control Unit, etc. I've looked around but can't seem to find a site

that sells these things. I don't want to keep calling someone over

and over and over againg to satisfy my curiosity on cost..... But

does anyone know where I can find these items and how common/uncommon

they are?

 

Thanks!

--A

Between cheap, fast & good the two I'd have to pick are fast & good..... =) Thanks!

This may be the wrong forum to ask, because everyone here probably

develops and prints their own film, but does anyone have a photo lab

that they can recommend in Manhattan? I've done Alkit, and haven't

liked them (takes too long, inconsistent service). Duggal was nice,

but they were a bit expensive & moved to a "secure location" (can't

find them for the life of me). Manhattan Color Labs has been ok, but

their quality isn't spectacular.

 

I kind of want to find a place that has reasonable prices (but I

don't mind paying more for high quality) and has good turnaround

times and can offer a myriad of services from Crystal Laser Prints to

R-Prints to Drum Scanning. And I don't want them to outsource my

business.... Any favorites?

 

Thanks!

--Alec Simonson

I know the question was broad, but these resposes are exremely helpful. I had this image of Rollei camera's being TLRs only, and probably never would have considered them. Now they sound like a great choice and I have a new path to research.

 

As per Derek's response, I'm not bent on manual wind, I just don't care either way. If it winds, great, if not, whatever.

 

As per David's advice, I certainly will spend some time holding them to pick one that "feels" right, but if there were 5 posts about how badly the XXXXXX camera sucked I'd likely just steer clear.

 

As for what I'd be using it for, that's hard to answer. I haven't really picked a specific discipline yet (Macro, Landscape, Portraits, etc), and while I've been encouraged to, I really can't choose. But I don't want to (or plan to) baby this camera. It won't be sitting on a shelf somewhere to be carressed with canned air from time to time to keep it shiny. Yes, I'll take care of it, but I plan to use it wherever and whenever I'd like. Wind, rain, salt air, mud, yadda yadda yadda. That's where the durablility factor really kicks in.

 

Again, thanks all for keeping on focus. This was a pretty broad question but I got a lot of the answers I was looking for.

Actually, no, I didn't know. So much for my hours of fauning over B&H catalogs....

Hey All,

 

Ok, I know it is unfair to throw in Rollei since they make TLRs, but

you get my point. Hasselblads are great, and you pay for it. So what

about the others? The guy at the B&H used department told me that

Mamiya was the next best in line and that Bronicas had some problems.

I'm not looking to start a flame war here, but I'm curious about what

the word is on the street about alternative medium format cameras

before I upgrade my high-end Holga.

 

What I'm looking for is a 6x6 medium format camera with manual focus,

non-prism viewfinder (I want to look down), manual wind and built-in

TTL metering. (Built-in TTL Metering is really important to me....) I

don't care about 120 vs. 220, I think I'd like to change lenses, and

the idea of multiple backs is appealing. Most of all I want it to

hold up for quite some time. After the Canon A2E command dial thing,

I've decided that poor design/workmanship is unacceptable for high-

ticket items. (Duh, but it left me REALLY mad.)

 

So what are your thoughts? What do you think of the lens quality of

the various manufacturers? Is there indeed a problem with the

mechanics of Bronicas? Is there a manufacturer on here that I've

overlooked? My apologies for my long-winded question.

 

Sincerely, Alec Simonson

 

PS: Ok, right, price. Let's stick to 2K & under.

Hey Guys,

 

I'm kind new to macro but I got this as a present to go with my Canon

100mm f/2.8 USM Macro Lens. I've used it several times and have

successfully washed out subject after subject. Fact is, I have no

idea what I'm doing when it comes to flash, and I'm looking for some

good resources. I need BEGINNER level stuff that tells me how to

meter flash, how to know what level of light I should be using, etc.

I really prefer books/sites that show you the outcome; if you do this

here's an example of what happens.

 

Thanks in advance.

--Alec

Hmmm, there don't seem to be a lot of fans of Slide here. So Paul, let me give you a few more pros of slide that haven't been mentioned:<p>

<ul>

<li>Slides are often used for portfolios. If you ever wanted to submit your work somewhere, they'd likely ask for slides.

<li>Making slides from prints is acceptable, but not great. Making prints from slides produces excellent results.

<li>Someone mentioned that slide film costs more but is cheaper to develop, while print film costs less and is more expensive to develop. They didn't summarize by saying that overall, working with slides is cheaper.

<li>Trying to examine if an image is sharp without printing is a lot easier when using slides then negatives. A loupe and lightbox are easily paid off with the lower developing costs of slide.

<li>If you're not good about storing your exposed film, you'll find it a lot easier to identify slidies then negatives.

<li>Want to see you're photo REALLY big without making an expensive print? You can project you're slide onto a wall with a projector.

</ul>

 

For me, print film is acceptable if you're somewhere where they don't sell slides, but otherwise I'm a just a slide kinda guy.<P>

 

Enjoy!<br>

--A