F3 motor drive - remove it while film is loaded?

[bill_schmidt]

I seem to remember someone saying recently that you can remove or

attach the F3's motor drive to the camera, while it's loaded with

film, without having a problem with a light leak. Does anyone know if

this is true? I don't want to try it myself!

[david_h._hartman]

I�d used to use a very dim light and shade the camera with my body. I use to pop the filter off a safe light with a 7.5 watt bulb behind my back in the darkroom when removing an F2 from an MD-2. You could waste a frame before and after removing the back. I don�t think I did that.

 

I didn�t think the MD-4 could be removed from the F3HP (stupid joke). Some here claim they don�t remember what the F3 looks like without the MD-4. If you have two F3(s) and only one MD-4 perhaps you should buy another? Sorry I�m sick with the flu, not too sick, not too well and board out of my mind.

 

Dave.

[david_h._hartman]

No actually I�m bored out of my mind.

[Ed_Ingold]

There is a threaded hole in the bottom of the F3 to accommodate the motor drive. You have to put a plug in that hole when the drive is removed, since it opens to the inside of the film chamber. The MD-4 has a slot in the battery holder which holds the plug when it isn't being used.

[armando_roldan]

THIS MIGHT SOUND SILLY BUT WHY NOT JUST REWIND THE FILM? IT CANT COST THAT MUCH.

[RobertChura]

It will work fine. I do it all the time in bright sunlight with no problems

[david_h._hartman]

OK, so I�m timid.

[EricM]

Edward...really? I pop my MD4 on and off all the time mid roll. You have me worried...

[Robert_Lai]

Yes, you can do a mid roll change without rewinding the film first. I've done it a few times in broad daylight. There is a sprung collar on the bottom of the camera that goes up against the bottom of the cartridge. It acts as a light seal. Of course, I would recommend that you replace the threaded cap over the hole afterwards.

[al_tan]

Can someone also tell me how this can be done with an FM3A/MD-12 combination?

[EricM]

I've been doing it for years too. I was just about to start digging through binders of negs...

[david_h._hartman]

<em>"Can someone also tell me how this can be done with

an FM3A/MD-12 combination?" --Al Tan<br>

</em><br>

There is no rewind feature with the MD-12 so there is absolutely

no danger for exposing film to stray light. The only thing one

should do is turn off the power switch on the MD-12 when

installing and removing.<br>

<br>

Best,<br>

<br>

Dave.<br>

<br>

---<br>

<br>

I loaded a film cassette and shined a flash light at the MD

coupling port and light did come through. That doesnt mean

sufficient light would reach the film to obviously flare the film.

Its rather tight in there and the camera is well blacked

inside. I noticed the spring loaded light baffle and Im

impressed. Still Id be reticent to install or remove the MD-4

in broad daylight. I could be wrong, it's happend before.<br>

<br>

Did the MD-2 manual have any warning regarding this issue?

[lex_jenkins]

The MD-4 detaches from the F3?

 

Hmm...

 

Might hafta try that some day.

 

Nah.

[bill_schmidt]

Interestingly, my F3 does not have a spring-loaded baffle in the camera. There is actually some vertical play, maybe 50 thou, in the position of the casette. Maybe it was a late modification in the series? I see no sign of my camera ever having had one. So maybe the answer to my original question is "It depends".

[kevin mayo]

According to Nikon you are not supposed to do this in the field most have done this without any problems. I think it would be best to only do this on an emergency basis and to take care to shield it as much as possible. I understand that many F3/MD-4 combos are missing the cap. I have mine and store it in the slot provided in the battery holder. I don't remember the last time I didn't have the motor on the F3.

Kevin

[Robert_Lai]

Bill,<p>My F3 is one of the first ones produced, and it has a little round collar on the bottom of the film chamber. You insert the projecting part of the film cassette spool into that collar. The collar surrounds the hole that is exposed when you remove the motor drive cover on the bottom.<p>Being neurotic, I have a motor drive cover in the battery holder slot of every one of my battery holder and MN-2 NiCd packs. They aren't that expensive now, but in a few years, you may have to pay an arm and a leg to find one of these covers.

[david_h._hartman]

<em>"Being neurotic, I have a motor drive cover in the

battery holder slot of every one of my battery holder and MN-2

NiCd packs." --Robert Lai<br>

</em><br>

I called a friend and asked if he has the coupling covers in

stock and told him I want two. Thats one for each MS-3 and

one spare counting the one that came with the body.<br>

<br>

Another item to get is the exposure memory lock button if youve

got a plastic one. There is some kind of swelling or bulb in a

plastic shaft with a metal disk around it. That bulb can wear out

and the button will pop off. If left out too long when replaced,

the switch inside locks the exposure until the button is removed

or the switch is replaced. There is an aluminum replacement

button but it requires more work than just popping a new one in.

[Robert_Lai]

Hello David,<p>I didn't know they made an aluminum exposure memory lock button. When I first got my camera, the button kept falling out. I called Nikon and they sent me a free replacement "improved" plastic one with a bigger bulge that has not fallen out in 19 years.<p>I recently tried to get a new multiple exposure lever. The man at Nikon Parts in Torrence, CA didn't seem to understand what I wanted. He finally sent me an E clip (which wasn't free, but cheap)!

[david_h._hartman]

Robert I�ll check with my friend about parts. I�m going to put together a little care package for my F3.

 

I once talked to a guy at Torrance who could not understand why I wouldn�t take a nice "head and shoulders" portrait of a Mojave Green rattlesnake with an AF 60/2.8 Micro. I guess he didn�t understand the neurotoxin principle. I'm not very impressed with the folks who answer the phones at Torrance.

[Robert_Lai]

The reason for fussing about the multiple exposure lever is that the edge of it projects just enough that metal strap hardward can abrade the paint off it. This happened 20 years ago when the original owner had metal hardware on the end of his strap. It's been bugging me ever since!<p>Word to the wise: only get straps with nylon hardware. Even the leather pads don't work 100% of the time.<p>David, for your little care kit, I suggest the following items:<p>1)New replacement back (especially if you use the MD-4 a lot, the pressure plate can wear out). Perhaps just a replacement pressure plate then.<p>2)Replacement baseplate (wears fast)<p>3)Functional Resistance Element (FRE) for ASA setting (easily cracked, although I still have my original one)<p>4)Exposure compensation button (easily falls out in the earlier models)<p>5)Shutter release collar (high point that can wear)<p>6)Shutter release button (can wear if you use a cable release a LOT, like I do)<p>7)Rewind knob (susceptible to wear)<p>8)ASA dial<p>9)Flash shoe - #8 and 9 wear if you put the flash on and off a lot.<p>What seemed like a good idea at the time - another prism. I take good enough care of my equipment not to have needed another prism in 20 years. However, YMMV. I would put the money into a DW-4 finder first.