Tmax 100 Professional

[lex_jenkins]

Daniel, don't worry about the anti-halation dyes. Don't worry about the reports of some remaining bluish or purplish tint to the film base. And for goodness sake, don't presoak for five minutes! It simply isn't necessary and might very well do some harm.

 

Try the Ilford archival method, described on their website, for processing film. It includes the step of agitating wash water in the tank. This step is extremely effective at removing residual dyes - you can actually see the discolored water as you pour it out, become lighter with successive washes.

 

I've processed a roll of TMX, TMY and "new" Tri-X during the past few days, all using the Ilford archival sequence as I've been doing for almost two years. I didn't presoak or use Permawash or any other product. The negative bases are almost perfectly neutral gray. Any slight residual tint is absolutely meaningless and will not affect printing or scanning.

 

This entire issue is blown way out of proportion. I *have* begun to presoak - for ONE minute - Agfa APX and Efke films. Does it make the slightest bit of difference in the final negatives? I have no idea. They look the same as negs I developed without presoaking. But it's awfully damned entertaining to see all that blue-green effluent pour off.

 

I strongly suspect that some presoakers are also compulsive handwashers (which, BTW, I nearly am, so it surprises me I'm not a diehard presoaker).

[hans_beckert]

I have been pre-soaking for at least 10 years, and the occasional air bells I once suffered from have completely disappeared. I see no reason not to pre-soak with most materials. the duration does not matter. Sometimes the film sits in water for 15 minutes before I am ready, and no ill effects whatsoever result.

[jim_appleyard]

Re:presoaking--Daniel, if you're curious about it, try it both ways. Neither Lex nor Hans is wrong; pre-soaking is often just a personal preference. Yes it will help get rid of dyes in the film, but so will a thorough wash. A presoak will help get rid of airbells, but so will a good "RAP" on the tabletop. Photography is both art and science and should be FUN. Have fun!

[rothelle]

Tmax and Microdol-X work very well. This is one of the best powder mix you can buy, very fine grains, sharp, great tones, details, good contrast, and I just can't say more, I only use two developers, Microdol-X and Hc-110 work well with Tmax and Tri-X films.