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Increasing HC-110 apparent sharpness


rob_gruber

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I love the tonality of Tri-X (120) in HC-110 but I also like the apparent sharpness that

Rodinal gives. Is there a developer that combines these two attributes, or preferably,

is there a way to get HC-110 to produce a more Rodinal like sharpness? Or I guess a

way to have Rodinal produce more HC-110 like tones. I've been using HC-110 in

dilution b from concentrate but will probably go to a more dilute mixture as I find my

negs with the new Tri-X significantly more dense.

 

Rob

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If you want increased sharpness and improved tonality then my vote is for either ABC pyro or Pyrocat HD. I realize that these are not available "off the shelf" without going to Formulary or Artcraft but the results are much better in both sharpness and tonality. I had shot 4X5 TriX and HC110 for years and I don't use either one today.
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It's difficult to find an off-the-shelf developer that will deliver sharper Tri-X negs without a concurrent increase in grain.

 

As you've discovered HC-110 delivers excellent tonality and good, but not great, sharpness. To me, it's D-76/ID-11 in a highly concentrated syrup with an almost indefinite shelf life. That's actually a good thing.

 

If you're up for some trials to find the right combination I can suggest one alternative to pyro type developers: Rodinal blended with Xtol.

 

While I've actually poked a bit of fun at myself for using this combo (I've compared the results to, again, you guessed it, D-76/ID-11), there is a difference from Tri-X in Rodinal alone, HC-110 or Xtol alone. I get the acutance of Rodinal with the finer grain of Xtol.

 

The trick is finding a balance between the Rodinal and Xtol components - neither should dominate. So each has to be diluted to approximately equivalent development times. For example, Rodinal at 1:50 and Xtol at 1:3 for around 11-13 minutes with Tri-X exposed at EI 400 and normal processing. I've used much more dilute solutions of each for stand development up to 20 minutes and gotten some of the finest grain Tri-X negs I've seen. OTOH, it wasn't *that* much different from what I get from Tri-X in ID-11.

 

Another possibility is a Beutler type developer. While grain will be increased it'll probably be tighter than Tri-X in Rodinal, which is about the grainiest combo I've seen next to Tri-X in Ilfosol-S.

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I second Lex's remarks, as he is the acknowleged King of Sharpness. Have you seen his world-famous fishing pole/reel shot?

 

However, just one general comment. Increased developer dilution may be a simple solution for you. Thirty years ago, a colleague showed me D-76 @1:3 instead of the standard 1:1. What a difference.

 

I, too, am a Rodinal fan who is not crazy about HC-110. But if you like the stuff, increasing the dilution may give you what you are after.

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I'm not too worried about grain as I'm shooting 120 and I acutally

find grain adds a nice texture to photographs. The grain of

Rodinal doesn't bother me, I rather like it, it's the overall

"grayness" (midtones) that make it less than appealing.

 

I don't care for mixing D-76 but I might give it a go as I have some

packets around and haven't tried since moving to HC-110.

 

As I will be increasing my HC-110 dilution anyway due to the

results I've gotten with the new Tri-x (despite what I've read

practically everywhere on the web) are far too dense, that might

be the ticket.

 

I'm wondering if stand development might help as well.

 

Thanks for al the answers.

 

Rob

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I was using HC-110 B/2 (that's 1+63) dillution. Good results, but itwasn't 'it'.

 

Note: I was away from B&W dev for some 15yrs, and by that time I used HC-110. It was not the same as today. I'm sure because it had a faint, almost rotten smell by then (cube like plastic bottles). Now, no more.

 

After tryng this and that, I've tried a Xtol like dev 1+2. That was it, 'though at this time I've only shot 35mm 125PX @200.

 

As for sudden death, the best trick I've found in the NET was to mix the 5L packet in only 2.5L of distill/deionized water as a stock solution, use half the quantity to dillute.

 

I still cannot vouch for it, but makes sense.

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I am never the King of Sharpness 'til I've had at least two cups of coffee.

 

Tetenal Neofin Blau was the developer I used with Efke R100. Excellent combination.

 

Neofin Rot (red) might be better suited to Tri-X unless you're willing to rate the film closer to its true speed, somewhere around 200-250. The "blue" version is intended for slow speed films.

 

Also see the recent thread on Beutler developers. Most of 'em look pretty easy to homebrew and variations are offered for fast and slow films.

 

Tri-X at EI 400-800 in straight Microphen stock solution would also be pretty danged sharp, more so than with D-76/ID-11. Useful combo if you need or prefer to maintain speed.

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If you are used to mixing your own developers or are willing to try there is a new Gainer developer variant which I am using at the moment.<br>

It is Vitamin C based and also uses p-Aminophenol (same developing ingredient as Rodinal) as well as one other ingredient...<br>

As far as film grain is concerned, I seem to get about the same grain as a 100 film with a 400 film as compared to Rodinal. It is very fine grained but with the same kind of (apparent) sharpness Rodinal produces.<p>

Email me for recipe.

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